Heritage Rat Resto Re-assemble

arod_1

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Hi Everyone,

I haven't been around here in a couple of years, but finally rolled this project out of the shed and started working on it a month or so ago.

I picked this bike up as a basket case. The PO was going to chop it and had disassembled much of it. The air boxes, battery box, carbs, exhaust, seat, fenders, gauges, and foot pegs were all removed and in a couple of totes. The wiring harness was still connected at the headlight and coil but was removed from there back and was hanging over the handlebars. He included a hardtail and some pod filters. I don't intend to install either. The bike has clubman bars and a cafe style seat I have seen on Mikes XS. I kind of like the look so will leave it that way.

What I've done so far:

Rebuilt the carbs. I studied the carb guide and tore into them. New parts included carb kits, butterfly seals, mix screws, and new float needles and seats. I verified the stock jet sizes and re-used those. I ran everything through the ultrasonic cleaner and followed up with carb cleaner and compressed air. Plastic floats were set to 22 mm. The most tedious part of the process so far I may add. I eyeballed the sync and set the mix screws to 3 turns. I was alarmed when I compared my new mix screws to the originals. They are somewhat shorter and the taper is different. One search on this site put my mind at ease.

I had to drill the heads from the butterfly screws and remove the remains with a needle nose. The new parts from Mikes seem to be steel instead of brass, so could not peen them. I used blue loctite. I think I would use red if I did it again. I don't think those will need to come apart again in my lifetime.

Since the carbs were already removed, I skipped over that part of the carb guide. The installation took longer than it should have. Lesson learned.....

Many thanks to the gentlemen that put the guide together.

While the carbs were off I adjusted the cam chain and set the valve lash. A little easier to access the cam chain adjustment with the carbs out of the way. Little Bills video series was very helpful.

I managed to get the wiring harness routed pretty much properly (I think) with help of some diagrams found on this site. I had two extra plugs I couldn't identify that turned out to be for a long gone sidestand relay and switch. I just left them hanging. I installed the stock ignitiion box and reg/rec. just hoping for the best.

I put the exhaust, gauges, fenders, pegs and a bunch of other parts back on.

With all that done, yesterday I ran down to Wally World and picked up a battery. I charged it up and installed it, hooked up my temporary tank, pulled the choke and hit the start button. It started on about the 3rd turn of the engine. I was shocked. I didn't even have to break out the can of either. It seems to idle fine and rev nice. I'm sure more tuning will be needed after I test drive it, but I'm off and running.

My plans for upgrades at this point are an oil change, new brake fluid in the front, and a clutch rod the PO included. The starter drive hangs a bit, so I will have a look at that as well.

The center stand doesn't get the back wheel off the ground, so I might look at a different set of shocks also. I suspect these are too long.

Long post, but I'm pleased with progress. I have a mystery bracket I'll post a picture of later. Hopefully someone can tell me what it is.

Thanks for reading.
Arod
 
Not very fine! But getting better. Here it is as it sits today. Also the mystery bracket I hope someone can help identify.
 

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That "mystery bracket" is the chain guard for the shift shaft. It may have inadvertantly been left off or the P.O. may have changed to a larger 18T front sprocket and had to leave it off for clearance purposes .....



I don't like the idea of running without it because the chain can start sawing into the shift shaft. The 18T front sprocket is a totally unnecessary mod in my opinion because pretty much the same gearing can accomplished by just changing the rear sprocket size.
 
Thanks everyone for the help and advice. The bike did not come with a chain, so I did not put it in gear. It may very well die when placed in gear.

The bike came with a couple sets of sprockets and no chain. I plan to run the stock sprockets as the bike will primarily be used around town. I'll be pulling the side cover soon to verify the sprocket and replace the bracket.
 
Stock gearing is 17T front and 34T rear. These bikes respond well to a minor gearing change, not so much to major ones. You have to realize we're only dealing with about a 50HP machine here. Gear it too high and you lose the take-off power and "lunge" in the lower gears. You kill the bike's "fun factor". One or two teeth smaller on the rear is all you should consider.
 
I guess I'll start with stock sprockets and work from there. I have what looks to be a brand new 17 tooth in my box of parts. I have 3 rear sprockets. I haven't looked at the tooth count on those yet.

My plan for this week is to study what it will take to get that clutch rod changed out. I'll probably get what I need to do that and order a chain. Then take care of both of them next weekend.

I pulled the rear wheel and shocks off this afternoon. I wanted to get a look at the brakes and measure the shocks. The shocks measure 13 3/16 from eye to eye. Does anybody know what the stock measurement is?
 
Been working on the bike when I have spare time. Synched the carbs up properly, new brake fluid in the front and shoes in the back. Checked the voltage across the battery ~13 volts @1200 RPM and 14.7 @ 3000. The front sprocket was an 18T, changed it to 17 and re-installed the guard. Back is at 34, so back to stock.

Changed the oil and pulled out both filters. Sump filter is in good shape, but the small oil filter hs some black particles in it. Checked the compression, 150 left and 120 right. Not good. Service manual says not more than 14 PSI difference and not less than 128. I may check the valve lash again, but I see a top end job in my future. I'm not sure how much I want to run it if the cam chain guide is deteriorating anyway.

Either way, I will drive it enogh to run it through the gears and get a feel for the transmission and clutch condition before I pull the engine. Bike has 13,900 miles, so probably due for some TLC in the engine.

Thanks for reading....
Arod
 

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Stock rear shocks are about 12 1/2" to 12 3/4" long. Your aftermarket replacements are a good thing. Most of us switch to slightly longer than stock replacements. It can improve the ride and handling. Can't tell the brand from your pics. Maybe if you post a close-up pic of a shock, we can I.D. it.

The mix screws you got from Mike's are what come through sometimes. They appear to be a non-E.P.A. version which could be a good thing. 3 turns out is the norm for the original screws but this style of replacement could require a different setting. Being non-E.P.A. they should run richer so may not require as many turns out. You'll just have to fool with the setting to see what works best.

The lower compression in one cylinder may be from the motor sitting for a while. Test it again after you put some miles on it, it may come back up. Test after running while the motor is still warm. You usually get better results on a warm motor.

You mentioned the starter grinding a bit. That #4 gear that does the grinding has a rubber ring bonded to one side and that could be where the little rubber bits you've found in the filter are coming from.
 
I did end up moving the mix screws to 2 1/2 turns. It was definitely rich at 3. I moved that while warming it up to sync. I believe it's still rich at 2 1/2 as it will start immediately with no choke from a dead cold condition. Also still smells rich. I plan to leave it alone at this point until I am able to ride it a bit.

While cleaning up the sump cover I found a couple of small pieces of aluminum. I'm not feeling real good about driving it too far without a look inside. Either way I'm going to pull the clutch basket and have a look at the starter gear tonight. I have a one piece clutch rod, I guess I'll go ahead and put that in there too.

Thanks for the help.

Arod....
 

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I pulled the #4 starter gear out tonight. The rubber is definitely coming off. The spring behind it looks worn and rough on the ends too. I have parts on the way. Hopefully will be here Saturday. While I was in there pulled out the old clutch rod and ball bearings and will replace with a one piece. I want to drive it enough to run through the gears before I tear the engine out.

I never noticed the Progressive Suspension mark on the shocks until I looked at the picture on my computer at lunch today. Is that the kind Mikes sells? Sure looks like it. My eyes aren't what they used to be.

Having a blast working in the garage again. I'm actually looking forward to tearing the engine down.

Thanks,
Arod....
 

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Hey Everyone,

I got my first ride today. What a pleasure it was. It runs real good, pulls strong even when I intentionally lug it. The carbs can't be far off. I'm sure experts could make them better, but they're not bad.

I did notice a couple of small items. It won't start in gear at all, even with the clutch pulled, probably some plug I neglected to hook up. Also the bike runs just great with the petcock set to prime. It seems stumble a little when in the on position. I guess I need to pull the petcock apart and decide if it needs a kit or a new one. I'd prefer to keep the vacuum model. Nice not having to worry about turning it off.

Friday night I drilled out the old clutch rod bushing and put in the new one, a new seal and a one piece pushrod. All went very well. Those procedures are very well documented on this site.

Yesterday I put in the new #4 starter gear and spring from Mikes. That didn't go so well. I should have looked around the site a little before I did it, would have saved me taking that apart twice. The first time I put it together I hit the start button and got no engagement at all. I then immediately Googled and found I needed to tighten the spring. I did that, then I pre-assembled the bendix, the new #4 gear and the new spring in my hand. When I pushed the gear down, It did not move freely nor would it always spring back up. It would gig and bind. The stock one operated much more smoothly. Not wanting to do this for a third time, I found a polishing stone from my moldmaking days in my tool box and polished the inside helix of the new (Mikes) #4 gear. All it requires is a bit of light oil, a stone and a little elbow grease. Not a perfect polish, but just enough to get rid of the gray heat treatment finish and knock away any tiny burrs. It took all of about 20 minutes. The gear then moved smoothly in both directions. I cleaned it thoroughly, added a little grease for good measure, re-installed and tested before putting the clutch back on. It works very well. No more nasty noises and hanging up before disengagement. The relay functions as it should also. I can press the start button while the engine is running and nothing happens.

I did have a slight problem putting my clutch back together. I had an extra washer not shown in my service manual! Again I Googled this site and lo and behold I was not the first to have this problem. I found a very nice diagram to help me along.

I'm still thinking I should have a look at the cam chain guide. I found a couple tiny pieces of aluminum under the sump filter..... BUMMER!

ctxv920rh- I have a half baked plan in my head for the center stand. I'm thinking of cutting the feet off, welding a threaded stud to them and a nut to the stand. Then I can put them together with a lock nut and adjust to whatever height I need. I haven't looked at the bike close enough to see if the extra length will interfere with anything yet. Will probably order an old centerstand from Ebay to mod. Thanks for the idea!


It's coming along! Thanks to all who have helped!

Arod....
 

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