Hesitation under load when Turn Signals are flashing! Lol

[retiredgentleman]

You measured 4.8 ohms for the rotor windings.......................that is marginal, but it is just within tolerance.
Spec. is 5.25 ohms + or - 10%, so that means 4.725 ohms is the lower limit.

Be sure to measure from either slip ring to the rotor frame, wanting to see a very high resistance. .

 

[xonix_digital]

Thanks retiredgentleman I did that test with the desired results.

This one however I am unsure of. I'm sure it's in the literature everyone has been sharing here but I will post my video nonetheless.

If even just for referencing later. I believe that the first five are the rectifier, and I get similar but mixed results when testing the diodes. Hoping someone can share their experience in this matter.

The latter two leads I believe are the regulator piece which is why I am getting odd results in diode mode.

On to replacing my melted fuse panel with modern fuses!

 

[weekendrider]

Do you have a manual?

 

[xonix_digital]

I have a Haynes but I thought that this part wasn't stock. Should it test the same as stock?

 

[weekendrider]

I would think so. I'll screen shot the test procedure.

 

[weekendrider]

You can download the manual(s) here.
http://www.biker.net/650_service/650service main.html

 

[xonix_digital]

Thanks again weekendrider!
I will test again using that chart.
The test videos I found on YouTube all said to use diode readouts but none agreed on the proper values for this unit.

Couldn't wait to post this one:

According to my gauge and very limited testing (it's 1am here) it looks like I gained a full volt by replacing these. We'll see for sure in the morning.

 

[xonix_digital]

Hey all!

Great news today, the volt meter is reading 13.4v at cruising speeds!
This is 1.5v better than I was getting on Sunday.

Still not ideal but progress nonetheless, and replacement stator brushes are on the way!
If that doesn't do it, I will resign myself to driving my battery all around town for testing and potentially replacing it.

At rest I'm getting 12.5v - 12.8v off the battery after a full charge.

I believe that this is the same issue, just manifesting itself slightly differently in the video below. Under 3k RPMs, the bike seems to flutter as if the coil is firing weak every other time. Let me know if you do not agree.

If I keep the revs up the bike runs great!

 

[mrtwowheel]

What regulator do you have? Many will disagree with me.....but, that 14.2 volts at mid-range RPM is not set in stone. That depends on the set point of the regulator, some have lower, some have higher, higher may not be good for battery life. I have an aftermarket regulator on a rotor/stator bike that has had a set point of just over 13.5 volts since new. I have switched this regulator with another regulator on an identical model of bike. this bike reads higher with the other regulator, the other bike reads just over 13.5 volts with the aftermarket regulator. Yeah, someone's gonna say that it was bad since new, but two years now and no dead battery or other problems and battery at rest voltage is just great, voltage at idle is good, battery may have a longer life too.

Scott

 

[xonix_digital]

It's the TourMax Solid State Regulator/Rectifier that MikesXS sells.

http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/yamaha-xs650-rectifier-regulator-80-84-oem-type-oem-3g1-81960-51

I have no idea how old it is though. When I was really hauling down the road the voltage was pinned at 13.4v at the front of the bike. No fluctuation at all. That I bet was due to the regulator now that you mention it.

 

[retiredgentleman]

The charging system is not working 100%, until the voltmeter reads at least 14 volts, while driving down the road with the engine rpm 3000 or more.

 

[mrtwowheel]

It's the TourMax Solid State Regulator/Rectifier that MikesXS sells.

http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/yamaha-xs650-rectifier-regulator-80-84-oem-type-oem-3g1-81960-51

I have no idea how old it is though. When I was really hauling down the road the voltage was pinned at 13.4v at the front of the bike. No fluctuation at all. That I bet was due to the regulator now that you mention it.

OK, that volt meter that you installed will help you monitor the charging system in the future. For now you need a more accurate reading of what's going on. Right now you need a reading right from the battery, without wires, fuses and switches that will suck some of the current. Wire a test meter directly to the battery, mount the meter somewhere on the bike, see what voltage you get.

 

[mrtwowheel]

The charging system is not working 100%, until the voltmeter reads at least 14 volts, while driving down the road with the engine rpm 3000 or more.

Gotta say, that is the general rule but regulators can have a lower set point and still function just as well. Same for the rotor test, rotors can function well and only have a reading of just over 3 ohm's.

Scott

 

[5twins]

The way you gained back so much voltage by fixing the fuses makes me wonder if you have lots more connections robbing power. The ignition switch and the kill switch are two items that can do that. I'd test the power going into and coming out of each of them. Ideally, you should have near battery voltage going in but who knows what's coming out the other side.

You could test the ignition switch at the fuses. The 20A main fuse is power going from the battery to the ignition switch. The other three fuses are powered by what comes out of the ignition switch. Speaking of fuses, I think yours may be the wrong sizes. Red is a 20A fuse, yellow a 7.5A, right? Only the main should be a 20A, the other three 15's. If you have a Pamco installed, the ignition fuse could be a 7.5A then. I think that's what Pete recommends for it.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Check the voltages like 5twins said, get the battery checked. The battery is an important part of the system, it must pass a "load test". Check the charging rate at the battery, over 3000 RPM.

Scott

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Ditto. If your voltmeter is reading the brown wire, it'll show something less than actual battery voltage.
I've cleaned-up my electrics enough so that I'm getting a 0.2 volt drop between the battery and the voltmeter (tied to brown).

My XS1B wiring is simpler, but even IT has a significant number of connections between the battery and the brown.
Take this simplified feed path:

(Batt+12v)//---->>(fuse)>>---->>----(red harness)---->>----(red hl shell)----][switch][---->>----(brown wire)-----(loads)

The // is the lug connection to the battery
---- is a wire segment
>> is a connector
][ is a switch contactor

If you count them up, you get 8 connectors and 6 wire segments by the time you get to the loads.
And, we have yet to address the ground return paths.

The 0.2 volt drop on mine means that when the voltmeter shows 13.8v, the battery is at 14.0...

 

[xonix_digital]

Thank you all for the great suggestions.
I scored some time this morning and decided to test the battery as suggested above.
Battery tested good, bought one anyway.

Way shorter and wider than the one I have but I was able to squeeze it in anyway.
Fired up the bike and took it for a rip....

NO CHANGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! UGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH

Luckily the battery was the wrong size so AZ let me return it. Now I know its not the battery!

 

[xonix_digital]

The way you gained back so much voltage by fixing the fuses makes me wonder if you have lots more connections robbing power. The ignition switch and the kill switch are two items that can do that. I'd test the power going into and coming out of each of them. Ideally, you should have near battery voltage going in but who knows what's coming out the other side.

You could test the ignition switch at the fuses. The 20A main fuse is power going from the battery to the ignition switch. The other three fuses are powered by what comes out of the ignition switch. Speaking of fuses, I think yours may be the wrong sizes. Red is a 20A fuse, yellow a 7.5A, right? Only the main should be a 20A, the other three 15's. If you have a Pamco installed, the ignition fuse could be a 7.5A then. I think that's what Pete recommends for it.

Thanks 5Twins. I have the stock equivalent fuses installed. The yellow is Main 20a and the reds are 10a. This is what was listed on the paper sticker under the bus fuses on the bike from the factory. My kill switch very well could be an issue as the switch is completely seized with corrosion. I will test that!

OK, that volt meter that you installed will help you monitor the charging system in the future. For now you need a more accurate reading of what's going on. Right now you need a reading right from the battery, without wires, fuses and switches that will suck some of the current. Wire a test meter directly to the battery, mount the meter somewhere on the bike, see what voltage you get.

Thanks MrTwoWheel. I will be grabbing a switch and hooking this meter directly to the battery.
By The way the bike is behaving it feels like the coil is not getting enough power to effectively fire. I thought it was due originally to a faulty coil but since I swapped it (Stock for Ultimate) the problem seems worse. I will also be assessing the wiring for the coil which seems reasonably sketchy.

I am going to run through the long list of suggestions here again over the next couple days to verify that I didn't miss anything.
Thanks again everyone for your help.

At least I'm running out of stuff to fix!

 

[5twins]

I'm sorry, must have had a major brain fart there. Main is 20A and yellow, the rest are 10s and red. The 7.5 is sort of an orange.

Yes, do check that kill switch. It interrupts the power flow to the ignitor unit (ignition black box) and the coil. The TCI box doesn't like low voltage. It doesn't operate correctly. That could be the cause of your lower RPM misfiring.

 

[xonix_digital]

I'm sorry, must have had a major brain fart there. Main is 20A and yellow, the rest are 10s and red. The 7.5 is sort of an orange.

Yes, do check that kill switch. It interrupts the power flow to the ignitor unit (ignition black box) and the coil. The TCI box doesn't like low voltage. It doesn't operate correctly. That could be the cause of your lower RPM misfiring.

If I eliminate the kill switch, is there any thing wrong with turning off the bike with the key?
I guess I don't know why the kill switch exists. I will likely have to bypass it completely since its seized up.