Hesitation under load when Turn Signals are flashing! Lol

Yes, as 2M points out, there will always be a voltage drop from the battery to the various loads on the bike. What is important, is reading the voltage that the loads actually use. I have my permanent voltmeter connected to the brown wire that is downstream of the Signals fuse. With it wired that way, if any large voltage drop occurs across the main 20 amp fuse, ignition switch or the associated wiring, I will see that on the voltmeter. I typically read 14.1 or 14.2 volts, so that means my battery is being charged at 14.3 or 14 .4 volts.

Scott's quote;
"Gotta say, that is the general rule but regulators can have a lower set point and still function just as well. Same for the rotor test, rotors can function well and only have a reading of just over 3 ohm's."

Scott, both those statements are wrong. You mentioned using a regulator that only charges at 13.5 volts. Your battery will never be fully charged at that voltage. You are getting only partial charging. There seems to be a general thinking on this and other motorcycle web sites, that if they get some where in the 13 volt range, that their battery is being charged just fine. Well that's just not true.

I drove a motorcycle back in the 1970's and 1980's (Yamaha XS500C) and then had a large absence, until I started riding again in 2007. As soon as I started riding and joined an XS650 web site in around 2007, I kept hearing about lads using battery tenders. I didn't even know what a battery tender was! Why would you need such as device??
I asked why they needed a battery tender.........................they said it was the only way to keep their batteries charged. Most of them did not understand that 13 to 13.5 volts was not charging their batteries, and so they had to plug in an external charger to make up for the lack of charging from their bikes onboard charging system. Over my 25 years of riding motorcycles, I have never used an external battery charger (tender?) during riding season. My onboard charging system has always kept my battery fully charged.

A rotor with only 3 ohms resistance, means that 30% to 40 % of the windings do not carry any current and therefore do not produce any magnetic flux. This results in a weak magnetic field, and a charging voltage from the stator that is below the normal 14.1 to 14.5 volts.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,maybe 13.5 volts???

Another thing that I found strange when I started riding again in 2007, was that many lads said the starter motor was weak and they had to kick start the engine in the morning, and only use the starter motor for later starts. That did not make sense to me. They blamed thick oil or a weak starter motor etc. The real cause was just batteries that were never being fully charged. My bike always starts instantly using the starter motor, and I have never had to use the kick starter.
 
If I eliminate the kill switch, is there any thing wrong with turning off the bike with the key?
I guess I don't know why the kill switch exists. I will likely have to bypass it completely since its seized up.

Yes, you can just use the key to shut down the engine, but its not a good habit. If your kill switch is worn out, you should buy a new one.....................its an emergency safety device. (I know lots of guys remove the kill switch from their bikes)
 
From the looks of it in your video, you could use a whole new right switch assembly, lol. If you happen to find a '76-'78 one, you'll get a bonus, an on-off headlight switch. Finding a nice used unit shouldn't be too hard. Many of the chopper guys replace them with something else.
 
I'm being misquoted !!!! I did not say that my regulator had a set point of 13.5 volts at midrange RPM. I said that it was just over 13.5 volts. UNDER 14 VOLTS, MORE THAN 13.5 VOLTS.

Just went out and checked the battery voltage after this bike has sat for more than a week, without starting, no battery tender, 12.58 volts. TELL ME THAT THE BATTERY IS NOT BEING CHARGED!!!!! Two years with this regulator, no problems, no maintenance except checking water in the battery.

Scott
 
Scott................my statement from the last page "The charging system is not working 100%, until the voltmeter reads at least 14 volts, while driving down the road with the engine rpm 3000 or more."

Another real world example. My Toyota Camry charges its battery at 14.1 volts, and I think Toyota knows a few things about building cars and engines.

Also, yelling in your post, does not impress anyone.
 
Edit:
11. 2v at the coil at idle.
Up to 13.2v at 2500 RPM.
My multimeter was doing wierd stuff when I was revving it. Jumping up to 30+ v and the screen went blank or a second...
 
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That's kinda low. That means either the kill switch or the ignition switch is robbing you of a volt or so. Check the feeds into the three 10A fuses. Those all come pretty much directly from the ignition switch. That will tell you if it's robbing power. The ignition fuse runs to the kill switch and on to the coil and TCI box.
 
Edit:
11. 2v at the coil at idle.
Up to 13.2v at 2500 RPM.
My multimeter was doing wierd stuff when I was revving it. Jumping up to 30+ v and the screen went blank or a second...

Not sure where you are measuring the voltage from, your post said "coil". Measure at the battery.

Edit...Oh, checking at the coil to see the difference from battery voltage?
 
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Yeah correct.
I moved the voltmeter to the battery and put it on a switch and I am getting 14.2v to the battery!
Tested voltage at the coil and the voltage is low.
Pulling the kill switch now!
 
If you're seeing 14.2 volts at the battery and 13.2 volts at the ignition coil, when the rpm is 2500, that is acceptable. It certainly is worthwhile to check the kill switch and the ignition switch. I found my ignition switch at 0.8 ohms once, and after cleaning the contacts it dropped to 0.0 ohms.
 
HA!

So I tore the bike apart... :)

7E4-Xz_48jY9BrlfFeNElWTYVE4Lg3VR57tp-Fl7b_lkXaru4uYP3xtq5IMmm9zONILSKgoyPWLo0MvghK3Lqg1Mq1wt2pPX6wN3QmhKCpMdXX7jAhKVMtI8ztPj-KGd3-jXRheFlKiC8Zw7n49BKkbShurJRq1nSjUlN2Qif31hhl9maE7lKa_qkUgqjbXtlxxjH1-SBqda26PGb2b8NVfitax-GgGbLDgJVh7NKjV4Nf2kyVISaDDItogBIBVI4HhBYAKBq993Ef1NBgRan5gMzGamu-DUqY4bbL0ac6FcWUQUD9GNjz3RJsEBQmbyW_quPAeW_ke4euFe3t11piiIUABKaiua0h_Wq9xKswoIfz5FImtFMDA3Ju_xR_aBaXSYWoA7hjgi5SG38c5ZabmAGzu7QtbC2C2rix5SgthozdtKWo3NAig7hkMy-A1A_PXua6mD4iTn4uSro7vComxoAHI1O3FXorV5B-p7lls11kdN5EMTdpwe8y8Qmkz7Xwabu34YSW3KR4Dbs_fyXOzOESI7Q80khxCwq_hKUJVRUyd5T2hN9oMEDbdpp1IoPkv_gNBdgO-6kPo_XjBlIYfP2WhXokig=w1290-h967-no


I found and re-terminated every single sketchy wire in the entire loom.
Reterminated most of the grounds and eliminated all the stuff I did when I was just guessing.

Ziptied this bitchin' waterproof switch to my bars to turn my voltmeter on and off. :D

Jgc9gyqjaNsW5qqioq1Kc2Tj5ejB5JLh52EV3zfdbp_0A_BphOKy5IR5pDrwuFvNefZs5hWh3eX9JxSOpmz49sHXbVXvc_6Y3j5bmrEGZkP3rJ_Hep78PBJBDMyMf3GZKDiuoeCXvq2CK4eO4Uu7AGj8b9jLRynwhh3N55-RYqWhdus6OvKxQ3SLkBph9_FQJW7kTcaKCNgSqsC9mpLoF2XPj6ykRQpCGv9gHvkqRDncGP30ntmasYxAPh3m5MGUWTABsRV8GMa-bCKj9FqORQ9fxvQ53B14yBpGERlHnOnZ6GPsDqJkgSHPiuzri2SLRbtLaxrVFVbAUDVk0MufSRSDlB27-YrT9zYO2Xs9IDhD41Kdwfc9Jz6FFGSCieHCDN_mwukQyIVc8c06J5K0sprQaTvSq97tqRDQw9lpixPoEXHoHhscwzFpnKU35mY-nvZrsmVs0hrcCDhBM-VfPjZufotxfOLLSgoJgcDwBslgX8bDEFbvceEwkilAZ65-MMOgXj7IkfY6i7p2G9zh0DLrtEz1hOxmDOV8RT3KNcJeNJ-oWyVEbgH88NyVOE-a9nCBeck6eVe7aYyFtoSiNlJSyFQN5CLz=w1290-h967-no


(all wirenuts in preceding photo were for testing purposes only... ;))

Then I turned to the F***ing kill switch....

i1kHpND5HavFaAJfLw4qps5BD9AKX76OetRjuOPc6DPOEWlG9ma-fOCZdCm3Mx_0G0YX9l-iPWZqz0G4BWcwW_Zi3g-VOOZ7XhtuOGOml71QcwZr86bRoTTYZkTyNnS3FmboC0TR9RYXniHebTF6pUyPzr89l_J87UMnrcKZXBUxHIyraDnZ5CmONijtuLxN2vpP-D6x2OhH21tgwgZDLeIiMihDjTOL0YloSiEJUiJqM95MEW5CIymOrf8aur8gs_KT3s68G6-dVrVkir7UYvI2CnMFYnJVACJAW2vqwW3ffyzEciFaxXW_hWqdlVfGpua74seXwqIRlghxQtPBD7-viIj1fAxA4NTxHbX3hhUMg89vCHFNtYcBDdEoyZhhkq5PpPOSGNK6avqKupATK0rT6wB_rPVYRVs3K5h89TVGh1rtmtNZPFrG_2QzfdKIwKUAATvGdiP07oWgZvyrwv1oQr8vBZ7O6nBFM9ThH6bs4TqdLNcIih9Ob2DgxqaG4PftuyQrDYUYuH7EQlZT2XC4R0TgSxpn1hWa7Vil3TsZUzaUpq4x6fdoW0KXE01LLCe-i-cVCUdg8IYxCnyie3e8-x7eAIVr=w1290-h967-no


Looks fine right?!??!!
I knowingly removed the white tape and found this:

hkMPX-JF1HMDYnl_NXVcQZktXhHZVZuQrtqJa6DAgqFuKiaamj0uqd4k5XnrcfzmtqQrSV2rt7NFv4rc13R4XRLjo-2hfVUbeAYiNrHHwsYDpfvs3kmChkjL-x6yeorKin8ll_Jf1XK3vQMhiul2XdCejD5ntX1w1-H-Rl9yNfcE9FgNZae7tlFpmqcK9KyGVQjiRaaD8xApKLxbxrdh8oEp1uDrzc_RtJ4ouGLU__jj-amS0eHzyPzESNYzXMiTVoBh4jc8MA09ETWIQWZ_D269kUfBi_aMHOolItpHCDp9aTtvJgic4FTWJ7X8EbuqSi5AywEFtxduBawg6TmdfVRXz_ow_bt361xw2fFqDYaI4I7Fdj0gQ-AYA0W1StYeFHCiYjAR9NMJwqfk-7g_yevGZ91VeVJcBsSi3MLbgaaTrCQR2SoR8mdwlveWsm5HvhSOtqz2_Kz_v0JKshkr7087mOg37ZbVTX8PpoVFSFmb0ekdcvsMaeko2L4G9jPDflUqoDB8AwDUFMSYSjNqsoxadbmEupj0FmJ2t7IGg6AGTKUqx1o4xGyxQEqwvxX2a-8QS_4eNQkG9zhOSAZAYimBfosCQnYm=w1290-h968-no


A**HOLES!!!

THESE TWO TERMINALS WERE SCREWED TOGETHER!!!
I eliminated that entire section of wire and spliced the red/white wires together at the rear of the bike (brown at the kill switch on this bike changes to red/white at the plug).

Slapped it back together and fired her up...



SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!
No more fluttering revs and 14.1v at 3000 RPM!!!

I will be taking it for a run in the AM to be sure.

You've all really helped me get back on the road, and I learned a whole hell of a lot along the way!
I can't thank you all enough for all the help and insight.
 
Good job, electrical problem advice always starts with, clean and tighten all connections, clean all switch contacts, inspect all wiring, look for added or repaired wiring. All of this should be done, then diagnose.

You're a damn pro now !!!!

Scott
 
Ultra bummed to be posting this but it has a hopeful ending...

Took my bike for a ride to bask in the glory of my victory.

hsppU6pq665tJXKDRsIXelJRSywqVnhfUWAOQhTdavd6aoBS5wpt3hQRGwuvuC18V1Czp0zUap03byCH9tMCA-EFMRtuA3stzsPREVazv8-6J3mDvsW2JXQDyJ3ZRT5JuVR6LszhSx8O1zeLmErMfDhIdzwxptH-5NTD3Ko2j2dTNcRMZZL3V2vu7Rx9vdo_FpgyLZ9Nb6oqL9PJNSE1AMUk-Le7kVD4OQ2R4oOqRkR__AIKbxL3q8KRsH1O41Ih6dTUhVTyi99m5bsv0IFuMk4GhCKuuv-yQh1FTZlWAswciOQXGhZ67PGWLhYO1wuDatPiKMfA2-P1z8f2kNIIrSly2_sjuJOT2DuwrN-kaEvtOMGJee1UchP6USrPy6eEmsumtSh5dUOFHlN58AckyJ4n6mze-O_pj1CdM0U7-1r7spckw-_h6TEuFU13UBPOEvQtxVqoeknwrxajFdiT749SPX92eDieFpaPAh4pr6PRqMmsaURT4NddoLdAtRoPaeHvxI1PAbDoOSQK2LEvJk-s4LUBxhMP_U1psBcDOuO2zG__6Ox_TGCHGNbb_ND3TCu3zINvaRiPbiGa7JUGYXElca__6vsI=w1290-h967-no



Still missing under load...
(even with my bitchin' wire loom and rectifier flapping in the breeze)

There are only two components left that I have not completely ruled out. The regulator/rectifier and the ignition unit or "TCI Black Box".
So I pulled out the Ignition unit and tore it apart.

6o88q9Ckbuo-5adidZaynjWNXBDN8NQ44FBUmFqMLS_pk57GzxbgAu8fd_rUpCl2NJt0ASgkVjPbVCuvD_q-O8v2R5wAfkVE6gqWRRmGh5zmyusewRS8T3StCY2bYb2fzhZwbUmsvr3TS6KULeAoA-OZ_rS-cArBhu-S7HrFcoet1seSqvhHYSejb0o4mn-kvo4UARO3dTJzdkAWODP3YjEcoyNBmy-ubbTp-AAvFiNvDfigGIcX9BNj9l6pLfcb-0GpCObKAw2nx-9zy_PiaObjxXLp-3GbRnTbwB0-PfFjBiuLwQpujX1cX-TXJDG98yfwJrxVBR9RiG5ayRF6p6nFdBfVmaklNNWuDQPRD9PZ638DA0NTbRySZEqNR7unGCqvp_iXY6jGgAMb11fLs6scZVgCVa7BWmPLJhCriez3WHfaCeLnKoBX37fdvT44R0__wOdSwSCp8TqjoNByy1XccMYyMiEpLlfLktcsyFHtapMqwMltquK25ydOhKPSdUThWKn3MfXFZktE6bk1ogu-adxOuds2R9ut-BjYJsKRYbx1EDcUQ0PWzR4LaWm7vTWojQd5egxQaVLChcMBphwSkkvtOjQb=w1506-h967-no


I don't have a lot of experience with electronics but I have recently become very aware of how to use my trusty multimeter!
This is the board inside.

SkBdmD8aRzoc4FjE5BNRdRiy75G5eVTGB2mIPFq64I=s640-no.jpg


I read about a bunch of people having faulty diodes on their boards so I decided to start there, and you would not be shocked with what I found.

rWUeEDf62Zo8Vks4egeUWFf7uwD5IcRdXA7rgdYzI1=s640-no.png


All good diodes marked with a green check, all shorted diodes marked with a red X.
FOUR dead diodes. These diodes tested approximately .45v in both directions which means that they are not functioning properly and need to be replaced.

The trick now is finding the proper diodes to replace these with.
If anyone has a good method of determining this it would be greatly appreciated.
I have found the part numbers for the egg shaped diodes up top but all of those tested good.

I have a bunch of 12v diodes that I picked up at the local radio repair shop but I am not sure how to tell whether or not these would be an adequate replacement.
Anyone know how to get the proper part numbers for these?

This time I'm not jumping to any conclusions.
 
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Never went that far, looking for bad diodes, but I have run bikes in the dark looking for bad connections from dry solder joints. Frustrating when you can see the arcing but you're in the dark wondering exactly where the arcs are coming from. Damn those boxes.

Scott
 
For each of those diodes you suspect, unsolder and pull one of the legs, then retest. Checking components "in-circuit" can give false readings.

Then, for those diodes confirmed as bad, look closely for any markings, and post-up here...
 
For each of those diodes you suspect, unsolder and pull one of the legs, then retest. Checking components "in-circuit" can give false readings.

Then, for those diodes confirmed as bad, look closely for any markings, and post-up here...

All four removed, all tested good off the board.

Harrumph!!!

Back to the drawing board...
 
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