Home made hardtail build

Autoklassik

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Hello

I have xs650 from 78 and after driving it the hole summer, i wanted to personalize it i little and because i never had a hardtail bike before i wanted to make hardtail.
Located in Estonia it was getting to expensive to order ready made rear section from the states.
So after many days looking pictures and reading almost all the posts here i desided to go similar to fong bros hardtail bikes but stretched. I used the original swingarm for locating the points.
Please take a look and let me know if there is something very wrong, there is missing the lower hard tail tubes.
 

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Many of us hardtailed our bikes like that long ago. Still works. Back then, most preferred to have the backbone and upper legs form a straight line, when viewed from the side, like the old harleys. But, you're doing it a bit differently, new styling.

The thing you may want to consider, is where the bends in those uppers are located. As you have it now, it matches the old-style frame shape, which used a large plunger saddle-seat. With new/modern seats, you may find your inner thighs rubbing on those wide bends. The solution is to use gentler bends, starting farther back, keeping the seating area narrow.

Some have experienced hitting their ankle on the frame bend during kickstart.

Hope this helps...
 
I got the frame done needs some cleaning and little welding but it is a roller now.
I found a old tank and a seat , i was thinking to make my own seat and just needed to get the location fixed so i could finnish the frame. What you think about the tanks?
I could also use tank shifter but i dont know what it would be in real road.
some pictures
 

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maybe to shorten the old tank and lower the rear to make it flow more with the frame.
I also had idea to bring the air filter up vertically between the tank and seat ,just make it look little weird?
 
What about chain tensioner? I see that some people use them and others not, is it necessary or not?

Harri

You don't have to run a tensioner, but before I put mine on I had to adjust my chain almost every day. It had to be EXTREMELY tight to be able to keep the chain from hitting the fake oil tank. I ended up making a nylon spacer to mount to the bottom of the oil tank so that if it did get hit it would at least keep the chain off the metal of the tank.

Here is the post from my thread where I made my own tensioner from an idea I stole from ontherocks that I saw here on the forum. I still need to make a more permanent mount for it but I now have no chain contact even with the nylon spacer and the chain tension itself is loose enough that there won't be any excessive wear on the bearing surfaces. The spring really isn't very stout compared to some of the ones I've seen for sale...it merely takes the slack out of the chain so it can't go bouncing around...but doesn't keep it overly tight like you have to run it without the tensioner.
I kinda made it with a certain degree of skepticism because I didn't think there was any way that a spring that weak would do much, but it apparently works and keeps me from having to readjust constantly. YMMV
I have 3 more wheels if you happen to want to give something like this a shot...I couldn't find many single wheels for sale so I had to get a set of 4 for nearly the same price single wheels or pairs were going for on ebay.
 
Today i got a chance to work on the tank, this is what it looks at the moment.
I was thinking to run 2 brass tubes to remote fuel taps, tank cap is from old brittish car.
I was thinking to solder the welds with brass or lead and cover it all with clear coat.
I think the lines run much better before.
 

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Carbs are alright and the filters fill run up with 90 degree angle just after the tank.
They will be between seat and tank getting some fresh air.
 
Little more done, foot pegs are mounted. I took the original ones and made them mid mounted. Also got a new shifter for my tank shifter setup. Dried some seating positions but not happy yet. Fuel gauge also done, exhaust cut and to be rerouted under the engine.
 

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Today i desided to try another seat version i also welded the hinge on the frame, i used old door hinge from triumph spitfire. Still need to move the springs little more outside, otherwise the seating position seamed good. Next thing will be the exhaust and how to route it under the engine without loosing much ground clearance and not heating up the sump. Any ideas?
 

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Something done again, i test fitted the tank shift and finally got the ratio like i want it to be. Still need to make some bends for the rod that comes from the tank (looks to simple like this). Also tried some options how to mound air filters. Tomorrow i need to make mounts for tank and bolt it tight so i can finish the shifter. Shifter rod and air filter tubes are stainless steel.
 

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another day messing with the gear linkage. I have to change the 8mm stainless steel bar in front of the engine because it is to week and twists when changing gear. I will try find some hardened steel bar to use, otherwise the gears work and i can move on to rear brake pedal fabrication.
 

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