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How difficult is it to replace the rear drum brakes?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bret, Mar 2, 2013.

  1. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    Shoot, more emphasis on an axle thru both. This will greatly help keep it all aligned. You may have to bang the backing plate in all the way and back out a few times progressively farther til it all comes apart.
     
    TwoManyXS1Bs and nj1639 like this.
  2. If you can see any of the edge of the shoes, lube and try tapping on the shoes directly along the circumference with a large slot (screwdriver) drift tool.......might get lucky.
     
    gggGary, TwoManyXS1Bs and Machine like this.
  3. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    As nj said, that splined shaft may be turned a little and applying the brake. I'd work on trying to free that up, getting it to rotate a little each way. maybe that will release the brake shoe's hold on the drum. Put penetrating oil around the splined shaft where it enters the hub, put the brake lever back on it tight, and tap it gently left and right to see if you can break the shaft free and get it to turn. You may have to soak it a while, maybe even apply some heat to it. I don't really use an open flame heat source anymore, I just use a heat gun. On high, it gets stuff plenty hot and I've freed up lots of stuck parts using it.
     
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  4. XSLeo

    XSLeo XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    As far as wear, on the lever that turns the cam is pointer. On the brake plate is a raised area that curves around with a taper. When the shoes are new the pointer is close to the wide end of the taper, as they wear the pointer moves toward the thinner side of the taper.
    This gives you a rough idea of shoe wear with out actually pulling things apart.
    On the stuck brake plate, Can you spin the brake plate in the hub?
    A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the best penetrating lube you can use. ATF is available anywhere, acetone is at most parts stores, look in the paint section. Use squirt can to pump this mix in around the bake plate. This will soak in between the shoes and drum.
    Leo
     
  5. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

    Also turn the whole wheel to different sides, tap bounce around, the lining may have fallen off a shoe and gotten wedged.
     
  6. madmax-im

    madmax-im Yamaha...Go your own way... Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

    Excellent timing and information 5T as i am researching rear brake drum service..Dunno what i need inside yet but i know they need attention as i am barely getting any braking from the rear drum... I think its been 5 years since they were rebuilt...
     
  7. Chachiboy

    Chachiboy XS650 Enthusiast

    Update - after more muscle power than what I would have liked, I got the brake plate off! As expected it's a mess inside and I will be replacing everything. There seems to be a layer of rust on the inner drum. A sliver of the drum broke off in the process (see pic). Hope that's not a big issue. My next question is what is the best way to fully clean the rust and corrosion on the inside? Sandblast? Wetsand? Wire brush?
     

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  8. xjwmx

    xjwmx XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I'd probably use gasoline and steel wool to get the gunk out. Final with brake cleaner and clean rags Lube the cam that expands the shoes well with grease. I woudn't work on the rust much -- the brakes might grab at first but the new shoes will clean it pretty fast. Where the shoes don't make contact it would be rusting anyway. If the broken off thing is outside of where the shoes make contact it shouldn't be a problem, otherwise it is
     
    gggGary likes this.
  9. Chachiboy

    Chachiboy XS650 Enthusiast

    Thanks for the recommendation. Wasn't looking forward to trying to clean off all the rust
     
    gggGary likes this.
  10. xjwmx

    xjwmx XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    When I first got my bike, one of the linings came off the shoe. It was probably 30 years old. Discovered it when I applied brake and it felt really weird. Happily it didn't cause it to lock up. I think I got my new shoes from the Yama dealer down the street.
     
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  11. xjwmx

    xjwmx XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    One of those copper colored metal or stainless pan scouring pads would probably be better than steel wool.
     
  12. Chachiboy

    Chachiboy XS650 Enthusiast

    I just tried my Dremel with a wire brush and it works so much easier and faster. It will still take time, but it's easier to hold than to scrub. Here is a pic of my springs. Do these weaken over time... Or best to buy new ones. I can't imagine they are too expensive but I would like to keep if possible
     

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  13. xjwmx

    xjwmx XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Shoes come with new springs, if I remember right

    Since youre using a dremel, I assume you aren't usng gas as a solvent...

    Also, there's prob some asbestos residue in there. Wouldn't want to be breathing the stream the dremel is kicking out
     
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  14. Those springs may be NLA.......as I seem to recall something in the cobwebs of me mind......lol
     
    Chachiboy likes this.
  15. xjwmx

    xjwmx XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    wow. might be. at any rate, never throw your old parts away. might be the best you can get someday
     
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  16. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I would think the springs are fine, just clean them up and lightly oil them. I bead blast the drum to clean it (see post #3 in this thread).
     
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  17. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

    Springs last forever if they don't get too rusty. I like a small coarse sharpening stone on my rusty drums. use with liberal amounts of mineral spirits to keep the stone from clogging. yeah I've busted a chunk of rim off a drum before, no problem.
     
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  18. xjwmx

    xjwmx XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    One of those grill cleaning pumice stones would be good. Whatever, I'd hose it out with water afterward.

    We're entering the realm of overkill though
     
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