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How do I check and change oil on an XS650? Oil recommendations?
- Thread starter campetre
- Start date
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- how to maintenance oil
Backroader
XS650 Addict
NOTE:
When checking engine oil level with the
dip stick, position the machine straight up
and on main stand.
b. The dip stick has a minimum and a maximum
mark. The oil level should be
between the two. If the level is low, add
sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.
CAN SOMEONE ADVISE...... SHOIULD THE DIP STICK BE SCREWED IN WHEN CHECKING OIL LEVEL OR JUST RESTING ON THE TOP THREAD.
THIS PROBABLY SOUNDS SILLY, HOWEVER JUST WHAT TO MAKE SURE...
When checking engine oil level with the
dip stick, position the machine straight up
and on main stand.
b. The dip stick has a minimum and a maximum
mark. The oil level should be
between the two. If the level is low, add
sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.
CAN SOMEONE ADVISE...... SHOIULD THE DIP STICK BE SCREWED IN WHEN CHECKING OIL LEVEL OR JUST RESTING ON THE TOP THREAD.
THIS PROBABLY SOUNDS SILLY, HOWEVER JUST WHAT TO MAKE SURE...
resting on the thread
Backroader
XS650 Addict
Thanks... My son and I are about to put in the oil and run it for the first time.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
650Skull,
I know that the manual says to check the oil level with the dipstick unscrewed and resting on the threads, but if you check the oil level the next time you change oil, you will see that the dip stick has to be screwed in to read correctly. Doing this right after you change oil is the only time you know exactly how much oil is in the crankcase.
I know that the manual says to check the oil level with the dipstick unscrewed and resting on the threads, but if you check the oil level the next time you change oil, you will see that the dip stick has to be screwed in to read correctly. Doing this right after you change oil is the only time you know exactly how much oil is in the crankcase.
My bad. I have a sight glass and usually rely on that in conjunction with the dipstick
so what is the general consensus on viscosity for a central eastern climate ie PA NJ NY? castrol motorcycle 10w40? 20w40?
ETA the bike is an XS500 and i suspect the starter clutch is slipping. which grade would be better at getting it to engage?
ETA the bike is an XS500 and i suspect the starter clutch is slipping. which grade would be better at getting it to engage?
Last edited:
If those are your choises, the 20w40. I don't know about the SR500 starter clutches. So I can't say about that.
yes, a bit, more importantly it won't thin out as much when hot.
Pete, I have noticed about the same thing. when just sitting on the threads it reads about half way between the marks, when screwed in it reads at the full mark.
I think the important thing is to not over fill. And check it the same way everytime.
Pete, I have noticed about the same thing. when just sitting on the threads it reads about half way between the marks, when screwed in it reads at the full mark.
I think the important thing is to not over fill. And check it the same way everytime.
Most deisel oils are 15w40, lots of people use it. Any motorcycle oil is good. a 20w50 is better for hot weather. If you ride when it gets cold like below 50-60 degrees the 15w40 will help it start easier.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Here is a word from Castrol regarding the use of Diesal oil in a gasoline engine:
Although Castrol Diesel oils carry an S rating, its primary credentials are diesel. The S rating is meant for short term use if the owner cannot find the appropriate gasoline engine oil. Diesel engines and gasoline engines have different operating regimes (loads, temperatures, speeds, fuel, exhaust recirculation); the lubricants are formulated differently (additives, ZDDP) to be in line with the primary operating requirements of the engine.
Diesel engine oil is formulated with very high levels of detergency to counteract the soot that is circulated back into the oil. Detergency is surface active and does compete with ZDDP for the surface of the cam lobe and lifter face. The proper engine oil to use long-term in gasoline classic car engines is an oil designed for use in a gasoline engine with the correct level of ZDDP to protect his cam and lifters.
Although Castrol Diesel oils carry an S rating, its primary credentials are diesel. The S rating is meant for short term use if the owner cannot find the appropriate gasoline engine oil. Diesel engines and gasoline engines have different operating regimes (loads, temperatures, speeds, fuel, exhaust recirculation); the lubricants are formulated differently (additives, ZDDP) to be in line with the primary operating requirements of the engine.
Diesel engine oil is formulated with very high levels of detergency to counteract the soot that is circulated back into the oil. Detergency is surface active and does compete with ZDDP for the surface of the cam lobe and lifter face. The proper engine oil to use long-term in gasoline classic car engines is an oil designed for use in a gasoline engine with the correct level of ZDDP to protect his cam and lifters.
Fallon196
XS650 New Member
I pull both of them
royfisk
build and rebuild get bet
pete you are right, but the exception to the rule is air cooled gass engines, they have differant requirements then do water cooled engines. Heck some air cooled engines run 70 weight. Diesel spec oil is more in line with air cooled engines then auto oil is.
AS far as pulling one drain plug or two is do you want to change all the oil or half the oil? It's generally best to change all the oil.
royfisk
build and rebuild get bet
lifestar yes there is only one fill hole. You really need to buy a good manual and read it if you plan to ride and wrench yhis bike yourself. One drain is for the trainny the other is the engine sump.
