How do I tighten my drive chain? Pics help.

EvenmoreXS

1981 XS650
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My chain is loose, not scary loose but it needs to be tightened. I could use some direction. Just changed my oil and want to tighten my chain before I ride again. Please list the proper steps. Pics wouldn't hurt. Right now I have over an inch of up and down play. I will replace the chain in the as near as possible future, but now I just need to make it better.

Thanks everyone. This forum is an awesome resource.
 
Get a manual. But in the meantime, I'll help you out.
Get the bike up on the center stand. Loosen the axle nut. There are two adjusters, one on either side of your axle. You'll note two nuts that are locking the adjuster bolts, loosen them. Screw in the adjuster bolts until the desired tension is achieved. tighten the lock nuts. make sure the marks on the adjusters line up the same with the marks on the swing arm on either side. Tighten everything up. If you have a drum brake make sure its not out of whack now.

This is pretty simple and straight forward stuff. You shouldnt need to ask on a forum how to do it. Also make sure you use the tech section on here before you ask.

These things need pretty constant maintenance so if this is beyond your ability to troubleshoot then perhaps a more modern bike is for you. Not trying to be a jerk.
 
Put it on the center stand or a stand that gets the back wheel in the air.
Back off the brake, loosen the brake stay arm (no need to remove the pin or nut)
Remove the pin(cotter or whatever type) and loosen the axle.
Now (and this is the important part) measure from the grease zert at the swingarm to the middle of the axle both sides. This measurement needs to be even. And hopefully the "flats" on the adjuster bolts ended up with a flat on top and bottom because this will be your forever starting point. Tighten till you have the desired slack in the chain.
Do this by turning the bolt an equal amount of "flats" on the bolt. One flat at a time each side.
Now the slack is out and the adjusters are locked down. Lock down the brake either by using the brake arm(which required me to sit backwards on the bike pushing the brake with my left foot while tightening the axle with my right arm or by getting a stick of something under the foot peg and over the brake levering the brake down) or like I do it now by simply tightening the brake adjuster till is is locked down. I suppose you do this to center the brake shoes. Tighten the axle replace the pin. Tighten the brake stay(nut and pin still on it, right?) then adjust the brake for approx 1 inch travel at the pedal.
 
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The most important thing you must do (and what everyone so far has left out) is sit on the bike and check the tension after adjusting. Your weight will compress the shocks and tighten the chain a bit - tighter than it was with your "up in the air" adjustment. Many probably don't do this and end up running with their chain too tight initially after an adjustment. It doesn't stay that way for long, it stretches. All in all, this shortens the life of your chain.
 
Yep. Its very simple compared to realigning a laser used to destroy cataracts, or or maybe resetting the cylinder lenses in a 35 year old phoroptor. I can manage that, so I'm confident in my ability to do something I've never done before, like tighten a chain on a motorcycle, or rather, troubleshoot so far as to know i should tighten the chain. And, Nah, I don't like current bikes. Bought this one specifically. Very happy with it and I plan to do lots more things to it that I've never done, like maintenance, and i suspect i will continue to be successful at it. Whether I should NEED to ask a question, or whether i was born with the instinct to do it doesn't matter. Asking is the only way to GAIN knowledge and thats what this forum is for. And, if you feel it necessary to end your response with, not trying to be a jerk, then you probably already know your response was sarcastic, and a little jerky.

In the future, just the facts please.

Thanks for the help weekendrider.

Pro, work on your people skills.
 
Thanks 5twins, I've read several threads that mentioned that. I think I have everything I need to do a quality job and ride home to my wife safely. I appreciate everyone's help.

More questions to come. Hope they arent too simple. But if they are, I know they will be answered respectfully by my fellow riders who have probably at some point asked the same question and are happy to share the answer.
 
One more thing I should mention. Check your adjustment in several spots. Chains stretch unevenly and develop tight and loose spots. You want to do your adjusting and subsequent checking while seated on the bike at one of those tight spots. Sit on the bike, reach down and check the tension, roll the bike ahead or back a couple feet, reach down and check tension again. Do this in a few different spots to find that tight spot.
 
i usually keep about an inch to inch and a quarter slack in my chains fyi. too tight kills the chain and can destroy the output shaft bearing.
 
To get the most life out of your chain, besides keeping it adjusted you should use a good motorcycle specific chain lube. I've tried many different ones over the years and about the best I've found is Kal-Gard Chain Kote .....


Unchanged since it's inception over 20 years ago, this stuff really works well.
 
Awesome 5twins, thanks. Ive been having a terrible time finding chain cleaner and lube here for some reason. No one carries anything. NO cleaners for chains, and the only lube is liquid wrench. They all carry the same thing. Pisses me off when I want to use a quality product but they dont carry it locally. Gotta ship it in.

Kal-Gard Chain Kote ... I'll find it and buy so much that the stock will be low for years. I live in a bike friendly place but no one carys much stock other than bikes, lots of those, and clothing. No maintenance stuff.
 
Clymer book page 29, under adjustment. 1 to 1 1/2 inches is a bit loose, 3/4 inch is about right.
Leo
 
Make sure you get the original, not the new clear version. The original contains moly, the clear stuff doesn't. The clear version is more for colored and o-ring chains that have a supply of lube built in. The original black moly version will foam out dark gray and stain the silver rollers almost black. When they start to turn silver again, you know it's time to re-lube.
 
Make sure you get the original, not the new clear version. The original contains moly, the clear stuff doesn't. The clear version is more for colored and o-ring chains that have a supply of lube built in. The original black moly version will foam out dark gray and stain the silver rollers almost black. When they start to turn silver again, you know it's time to re-lube.


Great. Thanks again. I wish this stuff was available locally. But NOooooooo, the bike shops here dont want to, you know, sell stuff. They just want to pay rent.
 
Good old paint thinner makes great chain cleaner. Charcoal lighter fluid is the same stuff. Oh and uh, suck it up and be a man damn it.
 
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