How the $#&!

[gggGary]

No you need the gasket for proper clutch push rod spacing. It might keep some water out of the alternator but plenty of guys have ventilated that area by drilling holes everywhere with no reported problems so far. Don't sell cereal box short, thousands of gaskets have been made with it, a bit of sealer sparingly applied and off you go. Eat your wheaties! Full disclosure I use (and reuse) premade gaskets, but I stock em so I don't need to jury rig one.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I look up the gaskets on Partzilla to get a Yamaha price then shop eBay where I can usually do better. I think the Yamaha price for that one you need is about $15. Be aware that there were two different gaskets used here. The very early ones differ from your later style. A mounting screw and dowel location changed .....

definitely thinking I need the XS2 alternator cover gasket. It’s the only one that makes sense for my cover. I took a detailed pic of it on my build thread. Pg3 post #53 6th picture down. Getting ready to order parts but I’m not sure which part number to reference. I’m on a streak of getting the right parts so far. I wanna keep that going!

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I also need a bit more input on the pushrod bushing... do I need to drain oil from the motor and pull both side covers and clutch basket out to do a singular push rod conversion?? Or even to just replace the bushing?

 

[5twins]

Yes, you need the XS2 and later side cover gasket, the one who's part # starts with 306. No, you don't need to drain the oil or remove the right side cover to replace the pushrod seal and bushing, or get the old pushrods and ball out. Once the old seal is removed, the ball and second short pushrod can easily be extracted with one of those telescoping magnets.

 

[B_Crabaugh]

Just did this job yesterday. It was a PAIN getting that nut loose. Here's what worked for me. Remove the clevis, take a zip tie and loop it through the clevis hole, then through one of the case bolt holes and tighten. You should have enough resistance/ leverage for removing the nut with a 12mm hand socket.

 

[gggGary]

12mm 6 point deep socket, rattle wrench, done.
As an experiment on the bike in the shop I used the 12mm offset wrench loaded it up a bit by hand, then smacked the handle of the wrench with a mallet, That worked on this one, but some are REAL tight. Hint; don't try to clamp the worm in a vice, there's nothing to clamp that won't bend when you torque on the nut.
Yeah Pete that don't sound right.

 

[5twins]

And be sure to liberally anti-seize the adjuster screw and lock nut when you re-install them. They are just plain, unprotected steel and are prone to seizing together. You may end up in the same boat next time if you install them dry.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

And be sure to liberally anti-seize the adjuster screw and lock nut when you re-install them. They are just plain, unprotected steel and are prone to seizing together. You may end up in the same boat next time if you install them dry.

How bout just regular grease? I need to invest in some anti seize...