How to: Cross Drill Rotor w/ Patterns

lot's of great patterns. kickin' around some ideas. any reason this couldn't work? :shrug:

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No reason. The idea behind staggering or stepping the holes is so, eventually, every part of the disc's swept area is covered by a hole. So, I would adjust the holes for the "S" so they fall in between (and overlap slightly) the holes for the "X".
 
Dead chef, that pattern is cool as a novelty but I would be concerned if there would be any balance issues. Maybe not a t low speeds, but maybe at higher speeds. I'm certainly not as experienced as others on here, but I like to point out safety concerns when I see them. Just my inexperienced two cents so take it easy on me if that sounds dumb. I suppose if you make certain all letters are placed so each letter balances that of the opposite side you would be okay.
 
Yes, centering each "XS" over one of the mounting bolt holes would probably do the trick.
 
Printed off front and rear.

Cut and taped front... All good.

Cut rear, but holes dont line up. Sides are not mirrored so holes dont line up. Or am I and idiot doing something wrong?
 
No, you're no idiot, that would be the guy posting fucked up patterns, lol. The one for the front is messed up as well. If you use it, delete the bottom hole in each "swirl" and add one more to the top. If you don't, you'll end up with a FUBAR'd rotor like Carbon's in post #30. That bottom hole is off the pad's swept area and therefore useless. The missing top hole means the entire swept area will not get drilled.
 
No, you're no idiot, that would be the guy posting fucked up patterns, lol. The one for the front is messed up as well. If you use it, delete the bottom hole in each "swirl" and add one more to the top. If you don't, you'll end up with a FUBAR'd rotor like Carbon's in post #30. That bottom hole is off the pad's swept area and therefore useless. The missing top hole means the entire swept area will not get drilled.

The patterns aren't fucked up.. I figured you could probably handle using scissors to trim where needed to have them line up.. seems everyone else that used the patterns could figure it out just as easy. The patterns worked perfectly for myself, posted them as a guide.. I'm sure a little common sense in using them will help.
 
Some, if not most, of the drill presses have the table held in the center by a post and pinch bolt. Loosen the pinch bolt just a bit and the table spins making a neat rotary table perfect for helping drill a disk. Use a rod chucked in the press along the outside of the disk to center it. Bolt the disk to the table. Just bump the table over one drill hole and rotate the table to drill each ring of holes in a circle around the disk.

Tom
 
Thanks "thelowlife" for the patterns, they worked great for me..totally happy here. I little modifications to the those pattern pie pieces just added to my prideful accomplishments. Lol. Almost made me feel smart.
 
The patterns aren't fucked up.. I figured you could probably handle using scissors to trim where needed to have them line up.. seems everyone else that used the patterns could figure it out just as easy. The patterns worked perfectly for myself, posted them as a guide.. I'm sure a little COMMON sense in using them will help.



Big word there LOL

Since I can not find any slotted ones relatively cheap, I am gona prob drill mine.. Thanks for the prints
 
My bad. I could have sworn they were the same diameter.
Kent
Hi Kent,
you are both right.
European twin disk XS650s have the same (smaller size) front disk as the XS650 rear disk and all 3 disks on an XS750/850.
North American single disk XS650s have the same (larger size) front disk as all 3 disks on an XS11.
 
What do you guys think of the drilling patter/size of the green bike by TC Bros? I like the look of it, but I'm worried its too aggressive with too large of holes.

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It's a rear rotor so it probably doesn't make a hell of a lot of difference but it seems they are giving up quite a bit of the total surface area. "5 twins" often mentions that the diameter of the holes shouldn't be greater than the thickness of the rotor. I suspect for racing applications where heat build up could be a significant issue he's correct. However, all my EBC rotors and Honda rotors do have holes with greater diameters from the factory.

In the case of the above rotor it looks to me like it's about bling not brakes.

I'm actually more fascinated by the fact that the brake stay anchor point is a nearly full drill through of the frame member with the welded in bush. On a hardtail that looks to be a weak point.

roy
 
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