How to hold crankshaft to remove Primary drive pinion nut

Oh how true, after years in sales, i've gone back (at 57) to being an electrician - all that experience, the past year training on the new procedures, regulations and processes, gaining status as a competant person through multiple examinations and assesments. The hundreds of £'s on tools and testing equipment and they still dont like paying much, when I 'hit it' in the right place!

On Japanese pressed roller bearing crankshafts:
I had a Suzuki 550 Katana, back when i was 19 (you work out the year!) it ran fine, no smoke no vibrations, no noise. One day I got into a bit of a race with an aircooled RD, i dont know which one. I got blown away! I thought that isnt right?
So I did a compression test and maybe by coincidence i got some odd readings, I pulled the head off and found a difference in the height of one pair of pistons to the other of 15mm. So one side or the other of the Crankshaft centre had moved in the journal - Or was it built that way?
Stripped the engine and boxed the Crank up and sent it down to a London company, who specialised in Cranks. They had it for months, every time i rang up, they kept telling me they had to build a jig for it (after all these years I understand why)
I got the crank back rebuilt the engine - my first rebuild - and the bike ran fine. JUST LIKE IT DID BEFORE no power increase or anything.

How did that bike run well and not vibrate??? - and the aircooled RD was probably a lot faster anyway



:umm:
 
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