How to re face your gauges

Mailman

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Hello my fellow restoration addicts. This article will cover the process involved in re facing your old, faded and cracked speedometer and tachometer dial faces with new reproduction decals. I will not be covering how to disassemble your gauges because that has already been covered in my other thread. Starting here at post #162 The instructions are pretty comprehensive, with a most excellent addition from 2M.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-sympathetic-restoration.51520/page-9

So this is what I’m starting with,
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The original gauge face is silk screened and the paint has dried and shrank and it just looks nasty.
After disassembling the gauges here are the faces.
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Note that the chrome bezels around all of the openings have already been removed. Now in order to apply the new decals, the old paint must be removed. This is best accomplished by wet sanding. I did the first step with 400 grit wet sandpaper laid on a flat surface and with a liquid dish soap added.

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Here are the initial results with 98% of the paint removed.
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You can see a lot of scratch marks and we want a smoother surface before applying our decals so I did it again with 1000 grit wet sandpaper. Now we are ready to apply the decals. I got these decals from Diablo Cycle / Reproduction Decals and they are of a high quality for a reasonable price. Throw these guys some business!

http://www.diablocycle.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1

Now on to the application. Here is my set up ready to go. My two decals , my clean gauge faces, a plastic credit card and a micro fiber cloth to work out the bubbles.
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First clean the gauge faces thoroughly with alcohol and let dry.
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Then have a small spray bottle with some water and a single drop of dish soap in it. This will allow you to lift and reposition the decal. If you have ever applied a screen protector on an electronic device the method is similar. Make sure you have washed your hands and your fingertips are free of oils. Then wet the dial faces.

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Peel the protective cover from the decal.
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And then carefully peel the decal from the paper back and align it on your dial face. Once you’ve done that, take your credit card covered with a micro fiber cloth (so you don’t scratch the decal ) and work any water bubbles towards the edges.

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Beautiful!
Now the tachometer decal requires that you cut the indicator light openings yourself. That is easily accomplished with an exacto knife.
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A little before and after.
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Re install the dial faces on your instruments, using a small amount of locktite on the threads. Note: Be careful to tighten these gently , so your screw head does not twist and lift your decal.
You could also add tiny black flat washers under your mounting screws to protect the decals from lifting.


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Press your indicator needle back on, clean the glass, and then crimp the bezel back on to your instrument. Being sure to cover your pliers with tape so you don’t scratch anything.

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Now admire the results!
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They came out extremely nice! I could not be happier!

I would like to thank 2M for his invaluable assistance on this project. I consider his article on restoring gauges to be required reading if you are contemplating opening these gauges up.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/early-model-70-71-instrument-rebuild-rejuvenation.31305/

Thanks for looking, I hope this might help anyone who has thought of doing this job.
Bob
 
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Looks great. The Special speedo has a post that stops the needle from going below 0. When I had one apart one time the big thing was getting the needle on in the position that put the right tension on the return spring so that the speedo was accurate.

It's been a long time since I've been in one - but there is probably something inside which turns that you can mark before you remove the needle. Then when you're ready to put the needle back, just line up the marks and push the needle back on such that it's against the post.
 
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They look great Bob!!! You're gettin' to be quiet the pro at this sortta' stuff:)
I'm curious about the soap on the sandpaper. I've always understood that the reason for the water with wetordry paper is to wash away the abraded materiel and keep the paper from "clogging." Soap seams counter-intuitive to that...?
 
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They look great Bob!!! You're gettin' to be quiet pro at this sortta' stuff:)
I'm curious about the soap on the sandpaper. I've always understood that the reason for the water with wetordry paper is to wash away the abraded materiel and keep the paper from "clogging." Soap seams counter-intuitive to that...?

Thanks Jim!
I added soap for two reasons, one to help clean the surface and two, I thought it might help the the gauge faces slide easier on the sandpaper. It didn’t really help much. It was actually kinda hard to grip and slide that thin faceplate on that sandpaper. I sanded right through the tips of my gloves, threw them away, then pretty much sanded my fingernails right down to my fingers. Haha! But I won!
 
Excellent gauge face restoration, Bob.
And, a well written how-to.

...I'm curious about the soap on the sandpaper. I've always understood that the reason for the water with wetordry paper is to wash away the abraded materiel and keep the paper from "clogging." Soap seams counter-intuitive to that...?

That's been my madness-method for years now. Have had the occasional experience of stuff still clogging in the wet-or-dry with plain water, a bit of Dawn stopped that. Plus, it keeps the surface degreased, helps to eliminate fish-eye, and other problems with silicone contamination...
 
The early bulbs used BA-9 (BAyonet, 9mm) bases.
View attachment 155687

I acquired some instrument BA9s LEDs from Super Bright LEDs, in yellow, green, and white. Tested, and they are indeed polarity insensitive. And really bright. I recommend...

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/58/

Anybody have a side by side demonstration to show brightness?
Also, do guys buy amber, green and red to add color beyond the glass lens?
If so, are these for the later years such as 76?
 
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