How-To: Rebuild XS650 Forks / Install Lowering Kit

Hugh - not sure if it's been asked/answered in these pages already so here goes.

If the dampening rods have already been modified for use with Race Tech cartridge emulators (i.e. drilled out with larger / more holes to eliminate their use, moving dampening duties to the emulators), are the special spacers with the hole and lining them up required?

I need to lower my front end a good 3-4 inches to work with my Voodoo MK4 frame, so I'm looking to lower it using your spacers.
 
Great post. I am in the process right now of lowering the front about 3 inches. I am starting to wonder how to lower the rear. Any suggestions that are as easy as this?
 
i've been through a few forks now, trying pliers, clippers, screwdrivers, dremel tool, etc.

the cheap seal puller from napa is by far the easiest, cleanest and safest way i've found.
 

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I boiled water then took it out to garage and left them in there for about twenty minutes then pryed them out was trying to be careful prying from reading this thread and put a hose clamp around lip so I didn't crack it.
 
Good morning. I need some guidance. I am installing a pair of Hugh's Handbuilt spacers to lower my forks. Hugh is out of town enjoying some RR.

I read this article but have a question to anyone who as installed the 2 inch spacers.

The spacers come with two holes in each. One is tapped with a set screw and the other is clear. I lined up the holes on the spacer and dampner rod and set the screw. Is this correct?

I ask because the small screw sticks out. Its not flush with the aluminum spacer.

Or should the screw line up with the hole in the dampner?

Hugh has a picture in this article where he states its important that the holes line up.

???

Mark
Panama
 
Line up the damper holes (oil hole in damper rod, hole in spacer). The screw does not go into the oil hole in the damper rod. It won't hurt anything if the screw sticks out slightly.
 
Yes, if you're trying to remove the top cap.

They come right out super easy without an impact gun.

The threads on the cap are super fine, you could damage them with an impact gun.

Hugh (http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7330) recommends you loose the caps while still on the bike.

I put mine in a large vise with rubber grips. No problems.

I meant the 17mm Hex head thing he mentioned. The bolt welded onto an old socket.. I ahve no ability to make that.
 
Just FYI The harbor Freight 17mm Hex Driver will NOT fit inside the upper tube. Hence me asking the question. I didn't get a response and I've wasted another $14. Haha. This damn bike will be the end of me.

No idea what to do now.

I'm not looking to loosen the cap.. that came off easy.. I need the 17mm Hex Bolt welded onto the Old socket tool.

The one from MikesXS is for the OLD style. NOT the later model style anyways. I wasn't asking for the cap tool.

I need the tool that goes inside the fork tube and lets the lower bolt be removed so I can remove these fu***** fork seals..
 
If I remember right I used the top acorn nut on top shock mount and took off lower shock bolt..screwed together and put a little bit of tape on it. ..(worried about losing it in fork)... and a long extension...all done...and those seals...man! I boiled some water then brought it to garage...put lowers in to soak...I think it helps. ..also put a hose clamp around were your prying...aluminum can break
 
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