How-To: Rebuild XS650 Forks / Install Lowering Kit

I made one out of an old bicycle axle and a piece of 3/8" tubing.

full
 
Questions about the 34mm early type forks:

Do the early type forks have the cone spacers at the end?

What size bolt should I get for the early-type forks?

Should they have the flat disk at the top of the springs (under the cap)?
 
I got some answers (in case anyone else had my same questions)

Yes. All XS forks have cone spacers. There are 3 different types, so they don't necessarily interchange. They are also not made anymore, so DON'T LOSE THEM.

No answer on the bolt size question. (I found my originals)

The early forks have a donut washer with a flange that fits into the spring (assuming to keep the washer centered.
 
not sure if its covered in this tread. (i didnt see it) but how long is the stock fork from very bottom to the top of the tube. the guy i bought my bike from says he thinks the front was lowered, but he isnt sure by how much

also, on the earlier models, if you just removed the top spacer without adding the spacer onto the dampening rod, what would happen? when i added fork oil a year ago, i noticed my top spacer was pvc. Im thinking about just removing it. bad idea? or would it just lower it by ~1.5"?
 
Does anyone know how the valving discs and spacers go (what order) into the bottom of the upper fork leg behind the snap ring? On 1972 XS2 forks? I think I have it right but can't find a diagram in any parts sites....
 
Hi I am planning on overhauling my forks they need it as they are bottoming out I have the late type. Where can i source all the new parts from in the USA because i am in Florida in a few days I can get all i need and bring it back with me. I am hoping re springing them and changing all the worn parts will make them a bit stiffer or do i need the lowering kits from Hughs hanbuilt also to stiffen them up.
All the best Funky
 
Mikes XS and Ebay have the seals. Lowering kit from Hughs Handbuilt. Hughs has three sizes. I used a one inch and it lowered the front sweet. You will have to cut your springs. If you're adding a lowering kit to stiffen it up, you probably need new springs. Check Mikes XS, TC Bros and Ebay for new springs.
 
This thread promises to be very helpful! But one quick question before I get out of the blocks.

I'm working on an early model, with the recessed 17mm cap. So far, the 8mm is broker loose, spins, but not enough to thread out.

How does one hold the fork upper still so the 17mm cap can be removed? I don't want to clamp the upper, on the chance it would be damaged.

Would love any ideas! Thanks
 
Leave in it in the triple tree and tighten all the bolts.
Loosen the cap. But do not remove.
Loosen the triple tree bolts and remove the shock.
Continue to take it apart.
No tool needed.
 
I have an old junk triple tree assembly that I clamp in my vice .....

ForkHolder.jpg
 
For a 1983 Honda Goldwing rebuild I made some blocks to hold the tubes in the vise.

Just like you I had the tree of the GL1100 at the powder coater.

Shaped the inside of two equal-sized pieces of 2x4.

It worked.

That cap should loosen easily. Its not torqued down tight.
 
G'day All,
On my 1976C one of my lower fork legs has a problem with the inner tube jamming.

I thought I had a bent inner tube... but no it is definitely the lower as I have tried both inners in the other lower leg and no jamming.

Can this perhaps be honed with a 3 stone/leg honing tool//
 
Anyone know the stock length of the fork spacers in a 73 tx650 with 34mm tubes? I just swapped out the +6 fork tubes for standard length. There was a spacer with the extended fork tubes that was about 9" long or so, I left it out. Now my forks/trees fall to within a few inches of the fork bottoms so I figured I must need some sort of spacer??

Thanks xs'ers
 
Anyone know the stock length of the fork spacers in a 73 tx650 with 34mm tubes? I just swapped out the +6 fork tubes for standard length. There was a spacer with the extended fork tubes that was about 9" long or so, I left it out. Now my forks/trees fall to within a few inches of the fork bottoms so I figured I must need some sort of spacer??

Thanks xs'ers
Primetime,
If you have the original springs from 73, I would guess they have sagged quite a lot, so either need replacing or at least a bit longer spacer.
I have never actually had a 73 TX fork apart, but I believe it is very similar to the fork on my 2 RD350s from 74. And these I know fairly well.
With the spring in the fork, and the fork fully extended, measure the distance from the top of the spring to the top of the tube. Then measure how far the fork cap (plug) will go into the tube. The difference between these two measurements will be the length of a spacer that results in ZERO spring preload. Now, you obviously will want some preload, so I suggest making a spacer that is around an inch or so longer than the "zero preload" spacer. You can use PVC pipe of a suitable diameter and schedule, as this is an easy material to work with. Just make sure you have the washers that sit on top of the springs, to keep the springs from damaging your new spacers. If the fork is still too soft, you can add a bit more fork oil, or make a set of slightly longer spacers.

When re-assembling the fork, I would recommend using a 1/2" ratchet and a 5" extension, with the correct socket. You will need to push fairly hard in order to overcome the spring and get the thread started. And since it is fairly fine thread, it is easily damaged (don't ask how I know......)
 
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