How to route clutch and throttle cable with lower bars

B Burdine97

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Hello guys, just thought I'd post a thread showing how I routed my stock clutch and throttle cables, hopefully possibly helping someone out down the road. I have an 81' special, so of course all the cable are extremely long to start. This will be mainly for specials, seeming as they came with bars that had a lot of pullback, requiring longer cables. You could solve this the easy way and just get a shorter clutch and throttle cable. Or if you'd like to save a couple bucks you will have to reroute them. I decided to install drag bars, but I believe this will work with most bars that are lower than stock, possibly even clip ons. All I did is make the cables go around the triple tree on the opposite side of their corresponding lever, then down the top of the frame, under the tank. The throttle cable from factory goes down the top of the frame, but the clutch cable didnt. So you'll have to use the factory wire ties to hold it in place or use zip ties. Here are some pics to help. Notice in the last pic the elbow on the clutch cable is where its suppose to be in its stock position. The clutch lever is extremely easy to pull back as well.

Note: Blue arrows are the throttle cable, red arrows are the clutch cable.
 

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Exact same route I have for my clutch, it's crazy what a difference proper routing makes.
 
No kidding. And I feel like the clutch lever is actually easier to pull because I eliminated a lot of bends.
What kind of bars are you running uhlaf? Looks like yours is a special.
Also is that mikesxs café seat I see you have?
 
Hello guys, just thought I'd post a thread showing how I routed my stock clutch and throttle cables, hopefully possibly helping someone out down the road. I have an 81' special, so of course all the cable are extremely long to start. This will be mainly for specials, seeming as they came with bars that had a lot of pullback, requiring longer cables. You could solve this the easy way and just get a shorter clutch and throttle cable. Or if you'd like to save a couple bucks you will have to reroute them. I decided to install drag bars, but I believe this will work with most bars that are lower than stock, possibly even clip ons. All I did is make the cables go around the triple tree on the opposite side of their corresponding lever, then down the top of the frame, under the tank. The throttle cable from factory goes down the top of the frame, but the clutch cable didnt. So you'll have to use the factory wire ties to hold it in place or use zip ties. Here are some pics to help. Notice in the last pic the elbow on the clutch cable is where its suppose to be in its stock position. The clutch lever is extremely easy to pull back as well.

Note: Blue arrows are the throttle cable, red arrows are the clutch cable.


Hey there. Timely post! I was busy last week with the kids so I had someone put my lower gold Renthal Superbike Bars on my 77 XS. Now the headlight doesnt come on. It shows that its on in the tree display, but doesnt come on in the headlight. Prior to the bar being changed, it worked. Any ideas? See pic of my bike with the renthals below.
IMG_2080.JPG
 
Yamaha77, part of the problem may be the hi/lo switch is mia? Past posters have had ground problems with painted bars, I don't know about anodized bars.
Check continuity between the switch ground and bars?
 
Yamaha77, part of the problem may be the hi/lo switch is mia? Past posters have had ground problems with painted bars, I don't know about anodized bars.
Check continuity between the switch ground and bars?

Im able to manipulate the switch as is, though I have ordered a replacement. So lets say the issue is a grounding issue. Can the anodized area be sanded down to create a grounding surface?
 
Yes, I'd say you've lost the ground between the right switch assembly and the left one. The right switch grounds to and through the handlebars over to the left one. The left one has the actual ground wire running into the headlight. Your headlight on-off switch is on the right switch assembly. Turning it on connects it to ground and completes the circuit. With no ground, yours is always "off".
 
5twins. You said:
"
Yes, I'd say you've lost the ground between the right switch assembly and the left one. The right switch grounds to and through the handlebars over to the left one. The left one has the actual ground wire running into the headlight. Your headlight on-off switch is on the right switch assembly. Turning it on connects it to ground and completes the circuit. With no ground, yours is always "off".

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So then, all i need to do is file off the anodized part under the switch and Im OK?
 
That might work, as long as the aluminum bars will conduct the current. You will need to do both sides so a connection is made between the two switch assemblies. When you split the switch assemblies to remove them, you will notice a little metal bracket in one half of each that contacts the bars when the assembly is mounted. That's what the ground goes through .....

SwitchGround.jpg


The only area on the bars that needs to be sanded clean will be the little spot that contacts that bracket.
 
That might work, as long as the aluminum bars will conduct the current. You will need to do both sides so a connection is made between the two switch assemblies. When you split the switch assemblies to remove them, you will notice a little metal bracket in one half of each that contacts the bars when the assembly is mounted. That's what the ground goes through .....

SwitchGround.jpg


The only area on the bars that needs to be sanded clean will be the little spot that contacts that bracket.
The interesting thing is, the horn and signal switches, which are part of the same assembly, work just fine. Only the headlight does not work.
 
No, the horn and signals are not part of the same switch. They are on the left one and it has a ground by a black wire running into the headlight. The right switch has your headlight on-off control. It gets it's ground from that black wire in the left switch but through the handlebars. That one ground in the left switch is shared between both switch assemblies. To get to the right switch, it has to flow through the handlebars and your anodized ones aren't allowing that to happen.
 
No, the horn and signals are not part of the same switch. They are on the left one and it has a ground by a black wire running into the headlight. The right switch has your headlight on-off control. It gets it's ground from that black wire in the left switch but through the handlebars. That one ground in the left switch is shared between both switch assemblies. To get to the right switch, it has to flow through the handlebars and your anodized ones aren't allowing that to happen.

Can I simply run an external ground cable?
 
I guess you could, if you don't mind an extra wire running out of the right switch assembly. Ground it to the main frame somewhere. The forks aren't a very good ground source because they connect to the frame through greased bearings.
 
I guess you could, if you don't mind an extra wire running out of the right switch assembly. Ground it to the main frame somewhere. The forks aren't a very good ground source because they connect to the frame through greased bearings.
\
Thanks. Now have to figure out how to make it look clean.
 
To test that this lack of ground really is your problem, get a length of wire and touch it to one of the right switch mounting screws and to a ground on the frame. Does the headlight work now?
 
Tried this last night. As you suggested i ran a wire from the mounting screws to a ground on the frame. Light did not come on. I noticed that the rear lights dont come on either, only the brake and signal lights. So maybe a blown fuse? Any ideas?
 
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