Hughs PMA Regulator Overheating?

[Robhall]

Well I just tried it again with only the battery hooked up to the regulator and the ignition running off a separate battery. Both batteries were fresh off the charger as well.
idle: 12.8-13.1
revving: 13.8-14.5
Then I hooked everything back up the way it was
idle: 13.2-13.4
revving: 14.1-14.3
Then I tried it with the headlight on
idle: 11.7-11.8
revving: 13.4-14.2

I didn't ride it as it's pretty wet out at the moment, but it seemed to be doing all right. I doubt the problem just "fixed" itself though. After it started acting up the first time I put in this battery and it ran great for a day until I'm assuming it ran down. The battery I removed was down to around 7 or 8 volts. I'm thinking since I charged this one it will run fine for a day then start doing the exact same thing. Also I'm wondering if these readings were supplemented by the fresh battery. Keep in mind this is the first time I have put it on the charger since I put it in, and it ran fine for a short time. I can't imagine the voltage reading dropping below whatever the battery is at since there is nothing putting a draw on the battery, unless somehow the charging system is draining it somehow. Now after I hooked it back up to the way it was the readings looked good, but I still get the feeling something is amiss. Oh another thing, a few days ago when it first started doing this, I unplugged the headlight and ran it with the switch on so that the wires were hot to test for a short and had no faults whatsoever, leading me to believe it's not wiring, but the extra draw from the light.

 

[trainwreck13]

My bike runs and charges completely fine until it gets nice and hot, then the output voltage drops off. I will usually run for 10-15 minutes before it starts acting up. Was the bike hot when you checked it?

 

[Robhall]

It was cold. I just took it for about a 20 min ride and tested it again afterwards with everything hooked up as normal (testing from the back of the plug from the reg/rec) and got pretty much the same results as above... I dunno maybe it was a loose connection somewhere. I'm going to take it out again a bit longer this afternoon and then try again.

 

[Robhall]

Any luck yet trainwreck? Mine still does it from time to time and I still don't have a definite answer.

 

[Punkskalar]

Might seem dumb, but what headlight are you running that is causing that much draw? And, double check that you have it wired up right. I've had some headlights where the ground was in the "wrong" terminal and although it still worked it caused problems...

 

[Robhall]

I'm running the stock headlight bucket with a standard Sylvania sealed beam bulb. I've checked the wiring in the past and everything is good to go. It's odd though, sometimes it will act up with the light on, and sometimes with the light off...

 

[trainwreck13]

Any luck yet trainwreck? Mine still does it from time to time and I still don't have a definite answer.

I sent my stator back to Hugh and he was kind enough to send me a new one. I installed it about a week and a half ago and two days after I installed it the problem arose again but only a few times and only for a second at a time. Twice when it happened I had a voltmeter on it and the voltage dropped off exactly like it had before when the throttle was opened. I've been banging around town on it since and it seems to be running completely fine other than the one day when it acted up. I'm going to try to take it out this weekend for a long run on the interstate to see if I can get it to act up again.

The stator definately had something to do with the issue but I can't say for certain what is going on with it since it has only glitched those few times with the new stator. With the old stator the voltage would cut out like clockwork every time the engine came up to normal operating temp. But with the new one only those few times the one day. I'm thinking about putting a battery back into the system that way if it does fault again like it has in the past at least it won't leave me stranded like it did before. Not having any faith in the bike and waiting for it to break down is a shitty feeling.

 

[trainwreck13]

Here's a little update.

Took the bike out on the interstate today to see if I could get it to act up and it made it about 10 miles before the charging system cut out and left me stranded on the side of the highway. I sat on the guardrail and enjoyed the weather for about a half an hour while the bike cooled off and was label to limp it back to the shop.

Same problem as it's had all along, charging system puts out normal voltage at idle and when attempting to rev above idle the voltage drops off to around 1v.

I think I'm over this PMA system and am going to go back to the stock system with a battery.

If anyone is interested in a next to new Hughs PMA system with a couple hundred miles on it that may or may not work let me know.

 

[Punkskalar]

Here's a little update.

Took the bike out on the interstate today to see if I could get it to act up and it made it about 10 miles before the charging system cut out and left me stranded on the side of the highway. I sat on the guardrail and enjoyed the weather for about a half an hour while the bike cooled off and was label to limp it back to the shop.

Same problem as it's had all along, charging system puts out normal voltage at idle and when attempting to rev above idle the voltage drops off to around 1v.

I think I'm over this PMA system and am going to go back to the stock system with a battery.

If anyone is interested in a next to new Hughs PMA system with a couple hundred miles on it that may or may not work let me know.

I hate that it is is not working out for you. I will be glad to work out some form of refund/store credit... Email me and we'll go from there.. Again, I wish I was there in person to correctly figure out what is going on for you, but I want to take care of you the best I can...

Hugh
HughsHandBuilt@gmail.com

 

[trainwreck13]

Thanks again for standing behind your products hugh. And sorry I'm not trying to trash your products or mess up your reputation or anything, I just reread my last post and it sounded kinda negative. I'm just a little frustrated with the bike. Everything is pointing to the stator but I don't know how I could be having the same problem with two different stators. I would love for the PMA system to work because when it does, it really works great but whatever the problem might be be it's beyond my level of capabilities. If I can get my hands on a truck I can bring it up to your shop if you're interested in taking a look at it.

 

[Robhall]

Here are a few thoughts from someone on Chopcult that had a similar problem on an old Honda. Possibly a bad coil ground? I've got mine mounted with a few Home Depot ground clamps and IIRC I didn't take the paint off before mounting it. Or possibly a bad key switch that's grounding out? I'm using the brass Dorman one from Advance Auto and I did get caught in a real bad rainstorm probably shortly before this started now that I think of it.

 

[Robhall]

Well it's still acting up. I checked the coil ground which is good and it does not appear that the switch is grounding out. Maybe it is only grounding when revving with vibrations?

 

[Punkskalar]

Well it's still acting up. I checked the coil ground which is good and it does not appear that the switch is grounding out. Maybe it is only grounding when revving with vibrations?

Straight wire just the running system. PMA -> battery/Cap -> Toggle -> Fuse -> Ignition.


There is something wrong with your wiring or with a faulty switch somewhere... Bypass all the "other" stuff on the bike until you figure out what is causing the fault. Bad ignition switches are common problems, especially the Harley Davidson Style Key Switches that are reproduced... just a thought, I want to see you getting this thing up and running

 

[Robhall]

Mine goes PMA -> 12v/.08ah batt -> key switch -> 20A aircraft circuit breaker then one wire up the backbone to the headlight with a soldered splice going into the coil.

 

[Robhall]

Well I hotwired it and have been using my push/pull circuit breaker as a switch and rode it around for a few hours and so far it's running good. I took it on the freeway for a few miles too and it was breaking up at speed, but it feels more like the wrong main jet. Hopefully this is it! Can anyone recommend a good ignition switch to use?

 

[XSLeo]

I got my key switch at the local farm supply. It is for an old Ford tractor. $16. Here's a pic of what it looks like and one of it on my bike. The switch is about 1.5 inches long from the face where the key goes in to the rear where the wires come out. Just on/off.
Leo

 

[Robhall]

Thanks Leo, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I'll hit up the tractor supply tomorrow.

 

[Robhall]

Old thread, but I figured it out. I had both the battery and reg ground both on a little 16g wire running all the way up to the upper motor mount. First off, this is WAY too small a wire, and perhaps it was causing interference with the coil. Small possibility, but I replaced it with a 10g going to the rear mount. I wasn't sure how well the coil was grounding to the frame with only the Home Depot ground clamps so I ran another ground from the coil mount to the upper motor mount. About a week later and not even a hiccup! The only problem I have is the tractor switch I got has no detents and likes to vibrate itself into the off position going down the road. Hanging my little key fob so it keeps what little pressure it offers towards on works nearly all the time but it is kind of a shitty fix. Leo, did I just get a defect or is this normal?

 

[XSLeo]

My tractor key switch works just fine. I have just the bike key and the padlock key, with a leather fob I made from old boot laces. I have it mounted so the off sets just left of verticle, on is just right of verticle. The key has the hole centered in the head of the key so it don't matter much which way it hangs.
It's mounted so the key goes straight in from the side. It is mounted behind the kick start, off a case bolt.
On your reg, the 16 g wire should be fine. A bit long from where it was mounted to the top engine mount. The battery with out the starter the 16 g should be ok. I might have udes 14 g. Again a long way to go. Grounds should be no longer than nessesary.
From the battery negitive to the frame 6 inches at most. Then ground everthing to the frame.
The coil doesn't have a ground. The mount needs to have metal to metal for heat transfer. So adding a ground wire had no effect. Changing the battery and reg grounds is what changed things.
Leo

 

[Robhall]

Yeah I figured it probably wouldn't do anything, but I happened to see an already made up wire in my toolbox so I figured it couldn't hurt. I've got my switch mounted in pretty much the same place, but it I don't position it right I won't make it more than a few miles before it turns itself off. Does yours have a detent in it?