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Hughs PMA Regulator Overheating?
- Thread starter trainwreck13
- Start date
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- electrical
Robhall
XS650 Addict
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Just out of curiosity, could the battery placement be a problem? It's a little 12v 0.8ah mounted in the fake oil bag with some pipe insulation padding around it. It is pretty close to the reg (but through a layer or two of metal) and right next to the circuit breaker. Could this cause any type of interference? Also I can't tell if it is low on amps, but it will take a full charge. If it had low capacity could this cause a problem? I imagine it has more juice than a capacitor though and plenty of guys run just those without any problems.
I doubt the proximity of the battery has any effect on the reg/rec.
I did the checks on the Honda reg/rec. It has three yellow wires, a red/white, positive to the battery, and a green, negative to ground.
with the red meter probe on the red/white wire the three yellows had these readings.
Yellow #1 was infinity reversed was .591 on the 2k scale
Yellow #2 was infinity reversed was .590 on the 2k scale
Yellow #3 was infinity reversed was .551 on the 2k scale
With the red meter lead to the green wire
#1 was .585, reversed was infinity
#2 was .545, reversed was infinity
#3 was .591, reversed was Infinity
Using the diode checker
Red to red/white I got
#1 was infinity, reversed was .695
#2 was infinity, reversed was .694
#3 was infinity, reversed was .650
With the red to green
#1 was .690, reversed infinity
#2 was .642, reversed infinity
#3 was .689, reversed infinity
The book said the high ohms should be over 2k ohms, infinity is higher than 2k. The low side should be 5-40 ohms. I got .545-.590 on the 2k scale, that should be 545 to 590 ohms. I bit over the 5-40, but I think it's ok.
The difference between the high and low is large enough to prove the diodes are working, no shorts or opens anywhere.
On a PMA with out any load on the system the voltage goes nuts, jumps all over the place. Sometimes it jumps around so much a meter can't read it on the DC scales.
The battery or cap provides the load nessary to stabilize the output voltage.
I think that small a battery will work ok. It may not last long. They aren't designed to take the charge rate of a bikes charging system.
Most lead acid batteries can handle a charge rate 1/10 of the amp hours. If that applies to these tiny batteries I can't say. I have a lead acid 4 amp/hour battery and the charger that came with it is 800 miliamps. Or .8 amps. Which is actaully a bit more than 1/10 of 4 apms, that would be .4 amps. I think on charge rates that low it won't matter as much on the battery size.
Now on the bike the stock system can put out about two amps more than the bike needs to run that is used to charge the battery. Hugh's PMA puts out a bit more and doesn't use some of the output just to run itself so it has about 4-5 amps extra after running the bike to charge a battery.
This 5 amp charge may shorten the life of a tiny battery.
From what I have read the batteries don't cost much so short life is not a big deal. ust something to be aware of.
Leo
I did the checks on the Honda reg/rec. It has three yellow wires, a red/white, positive to the battery, and a green, negative to ground.
with the red meter probe on the red/white wire the three yellows had these readings.
Yellow #1 was infinity reversed was .591 on the 2k scale
Yellow #2 was infinity reversed was .590 on the 2k scale
Yellow #3 was infinity reversed was .551 on the 2k scale
With the red meter lead to the green wire
#1 was .585, reversed was infinity
#2 was .545, reversed was infinity
#3 was .591, reversed was Infinity
Using the diode checker
Red to red/white I got
#1 was infinity, reversed was .695
#2 was infinity, reversed was .694
#3 was infinity, reversed was .650
With the red to green
#1 was .690, reversed infinity
#2 was .642, reversed infinity
#3 was .689, reversed infinity
The book said the high ohms should be over 2k ohms, infinity is higher than 2k. The low side should be 5-40 ohms. I got .545-.590 on the 2k scale, that should be 545 to 590 ohms. I bit over the 5-40, but I think it's ok.
The difference between the high and low is large enough to prove the diodes are working, no shorts or opens anywhere.
On a PMA with out any load on the system the voltage goes nuts, jumps all over the place. Sometimes it jumps around so much a meter can't read it on the DC scales.
The battery or cap provides the load nessary to stabilize the output voltage.
I think that small a battery will work ok. It may not last long. They aren't designed to take the charge rate of a bikes charging system.
Most lead acid batteries can handle a charge rate 1/10 of the amp hours. If that applies to these tiny batteries I can't say. I have a lead acid 4 amp/hour battery and the charger that came with it is 800 miliamps. Or .8 amps. Which is actaully a bit more than 1/10 of 4 apms, that would be .4 amps. I think on charge rates that low it won't matter as much on the battery size.
Now on the bike the stock system can put out about two amps more than the bike needs to run that is used to charge the battery. Hugh's PMA puts out a bit more and doesn't use some of the output just to run itself so it has about 4-5 amps extra after running the bike to charge a battery.
This 5 amp charge may shorten the life of a tiny battery.
From what I have read the batteries don't cost much so short life is not a big deal. ust something to be aware of.
Leo
Last edited:
Robhall
XS650 Addict
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Ok update time. Shortly after my last post in this thread I took both my batteries to Interstate to be tested. My spare (1.3ah) had a bad cell, and my primary (0.8ah) was down to maybe 0.2ah. They ordered me a new 0.8 and I drove over to Batteries Plus where I got the other one. Told him it had a bad cell and he handed me a new one, no questions asked. Went home, wrapped the new 1.3ah in even more padding and threw it in there. Well it's been running fine since, probably 600-800 miles later both highway and around town. The only remote problem I have had is my circuit breaker has popped a few times on me. Twice in the rain, and others while riding normally. Probably a my breaker getting worn, but who knows. I just reached down pushed it back in and kept on riding. I gave it a some time before posting it to make sure it wasn't a fluke, but It's going strong and seems to be better than ever.
mechanicScott
XS650 Addict
I'm having the same problems as you guys experienced with the bike not able to run and voltage drops....
What ended up happening/ fixes???
I'm a motocross mechanic, but not too familiar with the xs... This being my first build
What ended up happening/ fixes???
I'm a motocross mechanic, but not too familiar with the xs... This being my first build
Lasper01
XS650 Addict
Could be interesting to hear trainwreck if he could get his batteries tested maybe?
KentMoney
XS650 Addict
right now I are having a similar issue with a 12v 1.2ah battery, PMA, PAMCO, LED tail/brake light, headlight, hibeam, and one relay. The battery simply sucks. I'm surprised you've run it 500 miles at all because with the headlight off and the PMA charging, it can barley idle itself and keep the rear LED tailight lit!
I think these little batteries simply arent meant for motorsports and are not suitable for a motorcycle. We are going to upgrade to an 8cell ballistics and see if that fixes our problem. If it doesn't then it is the charging system.
KentMoney
XS650 Addict
and you're able to idle with good ignition, rear light, and headlight on?
