Hurricane resurrection

That's a significant increase.
The stock unburdened cable travel is about 16mm, about 11mm when tensioned in use. An additional 5mm is around a 40% increase in cable travel, depending on the grip thickness...
I rechecked cable the cable travel of the Magura clutch. No load on cable the travel is closer to 20 than 19. It may only be 4mm increase. I plan on putting one on my XS2 and see if it helps the clutch dragging when motor is hot. That won't be till spring tho.
Edit: The clutch perch and lever I checked travel on was manufactured in the mid 80s. New ones made today may be different. When I looked on Amazon this morning the one like mine is now a split perch.
 
Spanner sizes? On British bikes? Arcane is the best word I can think of.

Best to use the correct spanner if you don't want to round the heads off.

For my Triumph TR6, acquired new and s/h spanners and sockets in Whitworth (aka BSW), BS (British Standard), BSF (British Standard Fine), UNC (Unified Course), UNF (Unified Fine), CEI (Cycle Engineer's Institute). There are others. Each of these has different sizes for nuts & bolt heads and different threads-per-inch.To simplify matters (!) Triumph made an attempt to move towards standardised thread sizes in the late 60's which means parts from one year might not fit a different year.

Working on that Triumph, I spent a lot of time trying to identify correct thread sizes and also parts in general. The company had a policy of 'improving the breed' which meant that they kept on changing things. Where possible, the changes were brought in annually as each new year-model was introduced but sometimes things were changed within a year too.To add to the confusion, part numbers were sometimes changed although the part remained the same. And sometimes a part made to a new spec kept the same part number as the superseded item. Doh!

One notorious instance is the oil pressure switch on the twin cylinder bikes. The thread was changed, from a tapered fitting to parallel (or it might be the other way round) but the part number is the same. Result is that a lot of timing covers were busted by people fitting the wrong oil pressure switch.

Fortunately, there is a lot of information about all this on't internet. Unfortunately, much of the information on't internet is contradictory. One person's firm opinion or memory against another's.

My advice would be to find a good supplier - one you can trust. LP Williams are very good and I think they specialise in the triples. The search facility on their website is a good place for identifying superseded/new parts numbers and equivalent parts. And I found they gave good advice by email. There are no doubt other good companies and probably some Stateside.

I have lots of spanners and sockets in all the above denominations and would happily give you them - if only you were closer.


G'day from Down Under,

My apprentice master always told me "If you can fit a ring spanner on it use it"".

No slip.

Always remember....."Righty Tighty..............Lefty Lossey".

GeeDub
 
I'm in dire need of a rear fender for the Hurricane. I was tickled that I found a repop. It should be here Tuesday. I should have done what this guy is doing. He's building a 350 Enfield trials bike and wants some very specific type fenders. Go to post 63.
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=27215.60
This guy has got a lot of talents. I love following his builds.
 
That guy does really impressive work, he sure enjoys a challenge! I can’t believe how nice that fender turned out. I thought for sure he was going to go after it with an English wheel.
 
Yeah. I don't think I'm too crazy about the "hammered" look. Unless you really gotta have something special, it would seem like you could get something "close enough" from 7 Metal West, or similar, and cut it for length. I'm too cheap, :laugh: so I'm going to trim a front fender (for the front, naturally), and use addition front fenders to fab up a rear fender. I'm not worried about it, 'cuz they're going to be painted, not chrome.
 
I don't think I'm too crazy about the "hammered" look.

For a street bike, I wouldn’t want that either, but a rustic looking old thumper motocrosser? Yeah I thought it looked right at home.

By the way, I lost the link I used to have. There is a place that sells all kinds of aluminum gas tanks and aluminum fenders , stuff for cafe racers and custom builds. They had some nice pre made aluminum fenders in various sizes.
 
What impressed me is he started with flat pieces of metal and nothing but hand tools and made 2 fenders. I don't think I could do that. I agree it not a surface finish for just any bike.
As he said:
"I think I'll keep the hammered surface as it fits the purpose of the bike and the idea behind it."

I've got a feeling if he wanted a smooth surface he could do it.
 
End of year update:
Oil tank repaired, powder coated and installed.
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Rear fender arrived yesterday. It's a re-pop. An old one at that. The newspapers that were protecting it are from the last century. It wasn't exactly a bolt on deal. Took a little massaging of 4 of the mounting holes to get it to bolt up and a little bending to get the chain guard to play nice with it. All in all I'm pleased with it. Have to be as it was the only one I could find anywhere.
Tie up a few loose ends and she's a roller. Next up start on motor.

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I'd take it as a sign: "Praise to those who never despair" Indeed! Stick with it, it'll be great!
In fact, you should have that quote painted somewhere, maybe, in small fancy cursive script. The Good Lord willing, your bike would be under Divine protection.... :rolleyes:
 
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Engine apart. Head and cylinders at machine shop. Going to have to go 2nd over on the bore. Picked up a new set of 2nd over Hepolite pistons at a friends shop. Not sure where or how he got them but they are old. Packaging had made in UK on it. I'm hoping they are the real deal. New clutch, gasket set and other parts on the way from UK. Seal kit coming from Colorado. Still need to inspect the rubbers in the chainwheel cush drive. Pretty sure the valves and guides are getting replaced also.
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Sprocket and seal plate. Sprocket has strange wear. It rotates CCW. Seal plate shows signs of chain rubbing on it on the left side. The bearing on the main shaft feels good. If the bearing was getting loose I would have expected rubbing on the right side of the plate. Not sure what to think.
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Not sure how much farther to go into the engine. One side of me says finish cleaning and when new gaskets and seals show up start putting it back together. From what I remember there were no bad noises coming out of the bottom end. The other side says keep going. Split it apart, make sure the crank and rod bearings are OK. What to do, what to do?
 
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Hmmmm.... the age old question. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", or "Fix it 'till it breaks". As much fun as tearing it down to the last bolt, screw, and spring would be, IMO, doing the top end, gaskets and seals ought to be plenty enough to keep that baby screaming for quite a while... :twocents:
 
Dang Greg! It’s starting to get real now! This is exciting, as to your bottom end conundrum, I know how you feel. I didn’t do it, against the advice of some others. Frankly it worried me for a while, but ended up alright. My guess is since you were the dreaded P.O. :D you’ve already got a pretty good idea of the motors condition. I’d say go with your instincts :cool:
 
I dunno. I'd check it out as far as I could as it sits now. Take the feeler gages to the big ends for clearances. Piston pins in the small end for looseness. Things like that. Wiggle here and rattle there. Then go from there.
 
The pistons should have been fairly plentiful in the day, same ones used in the 250 single.

Also check the clutch pull rod, they would stretch and break especially if the pull out bearing failed
 
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Got parts coming from everywhere.
On Sunday placed a order over the internet with a place in the UK. Gaskets, filters, clutch plate and some other needed parts. This arrived at noon today. Everything ordered in package. One of the items I ordered was 2 binnacles.
Question of the day without using google to help what is a binnacle and what/where is it used on a bike? Until I started resurrecting this bike I never knew a bike could have a binnacle. I knew boats had barnacles. But bike binnacles who would have thought. My old ones are bad. A bad binnacle is not a good thing. I have a hunch Fred knows what they are.
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Also ordered a bit of functional bling. Just hope I'm never riding it when someone can read who made it.
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