Hydraulic Clutch Issue

Splexin

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OK just when I think my new hydraulic clutch from Hugh is good to go I discover that the clutch is not engaging/disengaging at all. I tested in driveway and thought it worked but it isn't working at all. Not even partially!!! Turns out I was just hitting the shift lever hard enough to get it in gear. I've emailed Hugh but in the meantime want to hear your thoughts.

I don't know much about clutches and wormgears and the likes but it is my understanding that for this hydraulic cable clutch, when I pull lever the slave pulls the actuator rod up, and when I let go of clutch lever the wormgear spring returns it to original position. Is this correct?

On mine I pull the lever and the actuator only goes up a little bit, I pull it again and it goes up a bit more, and I pull the lever again before the spring keeps it from going any further. But there is no release once I let go of the lever.....it remains stationary. I have to physically pull the actuator rod back out of the slave to get it back to original position.

Could this just be a pressure issue caused by air in the line??? I don't think it's a wormgear issue as it was working perfectly fine with cable.......

Honestly I am baffled by this and it takes a lot to baffle me. :laugh:

For anyone unfamiliar with the system here is the thread: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6356
 
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I don't think the worm part of the stock clutch system is used with the hydralic clutch. The slave cylinder pushes directly on the clutch push rod.
At least in the Hydralic systems I have looked at.
Leo
 
Splexin, I haven't actually had that item in my hands.....
Couple of questions though.
Did you measure the original cable length inside from the case to the acuator arm?
Did you loosen any of the fittings?
 
Mine has done the same thing. I've really tried to bleed mine, I'm still having issues getting it dialed in. At first I bled it following Hugh's instructions. It seemed to help a little. I tried pulling the lever in and letting it sit overnight. Not much change. DO NOT overtighten the screws on the lever bowl, that plastic cover will break. Don't ask me how I know!!
I'll be interested in this thread.
 
Have you adjusted the worm gear adjusting screw the same way you would do for a cable?

Did you measure the original cable length inside from the case to the acuator arm?
Did you loosen any of the fittings?

Per the instructions, yes I measured the length and mimicked that on the new install.

I adjusted the worm gear adjusting screw (instructions also discuss adjusting) but only after nothing else worked.....like I said, I don't think the worm gear is the problem. The actuator rod is supposed to release when I let go of the lever and that's not happening.

I may upload video for you guys to see what I'm talking about.

Edit: See video below

 
I know nothing. Having said that, it sounds like air in the hydraulic system is killing the action just as it would in a brake system. Bleed it???

roy

My recent experience with trouble bleeding the hydraulic brake is telling me the same thing. So I'll keep trying.

Mine has done the same thing. I've really tried to bleed mine, I'm still having issues getting it dialed in. At first I bled it following Hugh's instructions. It seemed to help a little. I tried pulling the lever in and letting it sit overnight. Not much change. DO NOT overtighten the screws on the lever bowl, that plastic cover will break. Don't ask me how I know!!
I'll be interested in this thread.

The whole bleeding thing has me curious. How do you know when its good to go? I am continuing to bleed mine (reminds me of a little kid peeing) and after using the adjusting screw on the lever, pressure is getting somewhat better, but like I said, the little actuator arm in the slave doesn't retract like it should.

LOL @ overtightening screws.....I've had so many over-torque experiences in the past that now I just hand-tighten most things....got enough torque in the biceps! I've been very gentle with this kit so far :thumbsup:
 
Splexin, I've been bleeding mine today too. I finally got a friend to help and make sure the master bowl was full as I bled the slave. I actually got some foamy fluid out of it. It is working pretty well now. Trick I learned, if you simply remove the clutch adjusting screw, you can pump and bleed the slave w/o removing the side cover. Just be sure to push the piston back down before you put the cap on. Good luck
Jim Wilson
 
Splexin;

From your video it appears that the pressure is not being released when you release the hand lever. That points towards the master cylinder being defective/dirty??

I am starting to think the same thing but seeing that it's a brand new M/C not sure.

Does the ramp ball lever snap back freely when the cable is disconnected?

I assume you're talking about the wormgear? Yes.


Still haven't heard back from Hugh but I'm sure he's swamped with emails. Going to keep bleeding to see if I can make any progress.
 
Another hour of bleeding with no luck. I'm going to keep trying for the next day or so and if I can't get any progress, I think I'm going to have to return the kit and wait for for an exchange. Something just doesn't feel right and I can't decide whether the problem is the master or the slave.

I've been working on this for 4 days and can't get it to work.....I know that I'm not mechanically advanced, but I'm not mechanically challenged either. I've done several other mods before with good success. I was hoping to get it on and going before my road trip second week of May, but looks like I'll have to revert to cable clutch unless Hugh has an exchange kit on hand. :shrug:
 
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