I finally pulled the trigger, it’s not perfect but it’s mine. How’d I do?

[Srawl]

Well I finally pulled the trigger on a 1977 XS650. Just over 15k miles on the dial.


I paid $1,800 for it, please feel free to tell me how good or bad I did.


It doesn’t have any turning signals, front or back, tail light is a $5 eBay piece of junk that burnt out on my way home.


Electric start cranks good but won’t turn over unless it’s just been shut off (or died). Kick start works, not a one kick sort of thing but this is my first kick bike so that could be me... It idles ok, not 100%, died when not feathering the throttle.


Previous owner says he just ultrasonic cleaned the carbs, all new jets and gaskets and replaced both petcocks after it sat for a year, says carbs just need synchronized.


I rode it about 40 miles home, on the way it died twice at stop signs and would randomly sputter a little bit in the 25-40mph range before everything going back to normal. I got up to about 80-85, seemed to do ok until about the 35 mile mark it started slowly sputtering and loosing speed, at max throttle I was stuck at 3k rpm cruising at 50 then died on the highway. I was able to get it started, went a couple miles or so and the same thing happened except I was able to keep it going slow until I made it home. When I got home I noticed some smoke coming from the exhaust where the pipes meet the cylinder heads, I don’t know if that means anything.

Oh, and the brakes suck...

It has a title... in the previous-previous(two owners ago’s) name that guy I bought it from never signed so he just gave that to me... hope that doesn’t come back to bite me...


Feel free to tell me anything you think I should know, my plan is to slowly turn this into a scrambler. I’ve also included the previous owner’s pics from CL. Right now I just want it to be reliable...


I’m very new to working on bikes and am very open to any advice.

 

[MaxPete]

I’m a little confused - is your new bike the nice red ‘77D or the blue tanked tracker?

If it’s the nice red ‘77D in original condition, then I’d say you did very well - and if it’s the blue tracker, then you still did just fine IMO. It’s a running 40 year old bike that you rode at highway speeds for an extended period of time. Not too shabby either way!

EDIT: ahhhhh - just re-read your post and now I get it. Frankly, that red ‘77 Standard is a reasonably rare and valuable bike in what looks to be quite nice original condition. It is, of course, yours - but I do hope that you don’t cut it up.

Certainly, that original exhaust system is something that a number of people would like to have.

Anyhow, looks like you’ve got yourself a ballgame there SRAWL!

 

[Srawl]

Any ball park on what it’s worth? I don’t plan on selling but if I have something rare I don’t want to go painting over or ruining something when I can sell and go buy a less rare model.

I don’t plan on cutting anything. I hope to just swap out or bolt on parts.

 

[weaselbeak]

For what you paid, it's only going to go up. Some like the 77 best of all. I wouldn't think of altering it.

 

[Srawl]

Well now I’m conflicted... first things first I need it to be reliable. I think that will keep me busy for a little while.

 

[MaxPete]

I don’t know values in your area but I’d say you paid a fair price for it and I agree that it will go up. These bikes will never be worth $25K - but they’re darn good bikes and you’ve got a nice one there.

 

[gggGary]

Well now I’m conflicted... first things first I need it to be reliable. I think that will keep me busy for a little while.

I think you have a good plan. Get it running good, ride for a bit THEN decide on changes. I would charge the battery see if it starts then. then put on a volt meter and see how it's charging. The buying guide found in tech



will help you learn your way around the XS650.
We all want to "just ride" so tend to get all "find the problem"! but the rational way to procede once the bike is in the garage is to go through and clean, check, test everything on the maintenance list found in the thread mentioned above. trust me although it will seem tedious it is the fast way to a bike you can trust get you where you want to go. It also serves to familiarize you with all systems so if you do have a problem you will know where to start looking and how to deal with it.
Value is subjective. 1800 for a bike that tried to die several times on the way home seems a bit steep for around my neighborhood but; I have sent a bike to Texas that wasn't as nice and cost the guy more than your price with shipping and that was years ago. It's a restored beauty now.. What you paid is water under the bridge. On ANY old bike; the purchase price is merely the down payment.
It will help us help you to post details of what your bike is in your signature. They are all XS650 but they changed a LOT over the 14 years of production, few common parts between an early and late bike. A picture inside the round LH cover behind the shift lever, and one inside the chrome caps on the ends of the cam will help us guide you on some things you will want to know.
We love pics and they are the best for trouble shooting.

 

[59Tebo]

Lookin' good! It shouldn't take much as a restoration. Side covers (if you don't have them already), and the original bars for starts. Was that dent on the left side of the tank caused by those clubmans?

 

[Srawl]

Lookin' good! It shouldn't take much as a restoration. Side covers (if you don't have them already), and the original bars for starts. Was that dent on the left side of the tank caused by those clubmans?

I’m not sure what caused the dent. But I do have the side covers.

 

[Srawl]

It will help us help you to post details of what your bike is in your signature. They are all XS650 but they changed a LOT over the 14 years of production, few common parts between an early and late bike. A picture inside the round LH cover behind the shift lever, and one inside the chrome caps on the ends of the cam will help us guide you on some things you will want to know.
We love pics and they are the best for trouble shooting.

If you could post an example on the pics your looking for I’d be happy to go take them, I’d also like to know exactly what I have.

 

[halfmile]

Electric start cranks good but won`t turn over (gotta love this)

If you bought this one in Texas for $1800 you did good. Plenty of great knowledge and experience on this forum. Good luck with your new bike.

 

[5twins]

Under the lower round cover on the left side is your alternator. That will show us if it's still stock or has been changed. This is what a stock one for your model would look like .....

Under the upper little chrome cover would be some of your ignition components. This will show us whether you still have the stock breaker point system or if it's been upgraded to electronic. The stock points would look something like this .....

I like to change to lower than stock handlebars, just not as low as yours. Cable rerouting is too difficult with really low bars like that. My bar of choice is the Euro bend, lower than stock but not too low, and very comfortable .....

You're going to need to change out those pod filters you have. They're the wrong type for your CV carbs. They're also physically too small and tapered. The pleated style filter element disrupts the air flow, makes it rough. CV carbs rely on a smooth air flow to properly lift the slides. If you want to stick with pods, a smooth, straight foam type is best. Many of us run the UNI pods .....

If your carbs were rebuilt using an aftermarket rebuild kit, that could be part of your running problems. Many of these kits contain the wrong jet sizes. The '77 kit in particular usually has jet sizes for the '78-'79 carbs which are bigger and would make the bike run too rich.

 

[Srawl]

Ok are these what you’re looking for?

I believe I have the stock air boxes in the box of parts he gave me. I’ll switch those out.

 

[Jim]

You have a stock charging and ignition system. As Gary said... add that info and bike year to your signature. That way you won't have to keep repeating yourself anytime you need help here. It will be included in every comment.

 

[5twins]

Yes, stock components, which isn't a bad thing. The middle pic is your advance unit for the ignition. Looks pretty dry, I'd be lubing that up. Also, the rod that ties it to the points on the other side needs to be lubed. Search "advance rod lube".

Your spark plug caps look like the originals. I'd be replacing them, they can go bad. I'd replace the plug wires too. Standard 7mm auto wire works fine but don't get the resistor stuff, get the plain wire core non-resistor wire. The resistance needed is built into the spark plug cap. Replacement of choice is the NGK LB05F.

But if you plan to keep the points, you can run a non-resistor plug cap if you like. NGK makes a nice one of those too .....

 

[xjwmx]

It has a title... in the previous-previous(two owners ago’s) name that guy I bought it from never signed so he just gave that to me... hope that doesn’t come back to bite me...

You won't be able to get tags for it. Technically it's probably still owned by two owners back. Here change of ownership takes seller and buyer signing at the same time in the presence of a notary. A seller can do a single-ended transfer if the buyer doesn't finish the paperwork for the DMV, so that the seller doesn't have any liability with it anymore.

 

[Srawl]

It is still “owned” by the guy two owners back. I have all the paperwork that looks as though he sold it to me two years ago.

What state do you live in? I live in Texas and as far as I know it is recommended that the seller go but not required.

 

[xjwmx]

In that case, good. But I would do it now to make sure. They really tightened it up here because the state was used for laundering cars. I'm in KY presently. Lived in Austin for awhile and worked for the city. Good gig because you can transfer to whatever job you want, after you get in the club

 

[Srawl]

Yes, stock components, which isn't a bad thing. The middle pic is your advance unit for the ignition. Looks pretty dry, I'd be lubing that up. Also, the rod that ties it to the points on the other side needs to be lubed. Search "advance rod lube".

Your spark plug caps look like the originals. I'd be replacing them, they can go bad. I'd replace the plug wires too. Standard 7mm auto wire works fine but don't get the resistor stuff, get the plain wire core non-resistor wire. The resistance needed is built into the spark plug cap. Replacement of choice is the NGK LB05F.

But if you plan to keep the points, you can run a non-resistor plug cap if you like. NGK makes a nice one of those too .....

Info like this is exactly what I’m looking for thanks, I have read through the maintenance list posted above and will start working on that soon. Is there a tune up checklist that goes into line points and wiring checks I can find somewhere? I’m very new but even more willing to learn.

As for my bike, it is ‘77D XS650 with stock charging and ignition system. Anything else I should know and add to the signature?

 

[Jim]

As for my bike, it is ‘77D XS650 with stock charging and ignition system. Anything else I should know and add to the signature?

Yup.... that'll work. You can add to it as necessary....