Installed a new LED headlight bulb,Results!

XS650D

XS650 Junkie
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Took almost 2 months to receive bulb but it plugged rite in no problems and the light output is amazing
compared to stock.High beam also works great. Only concern I have is I noticed that my Voltage while running the bike which has always been running around 14.3 has now gone up to and will fluctuate
between 14.5 and 14.7 which is to high.This is rite after I turned the bike on after install.
I am hoping that the Regulator (Chrysler unit) will adjust after a 20 minute ride.I wouldn't say that the bike started any easier or warmed up quicker with the lower draw LED based on my Voltage test readings
compared to stock bulb. But the lower electrical draw on the system will certainly not hurt.I will report back after a few miles.Night riding should be much nicer now!
 
Yes, the charge rate should drop some after a few miles and replenishment of the battery. Mine starts out about 14.2, drops to just under 14 in a few miles. I have a standard H4 bulb (55-60w), LED tail light.
 
After you put on some kms. lets hope the voltage drops back under 14.5. If you drive much at night, it could be very worthwhile.
If the voltage persists higher than 14.5, you should consider adding to the bikes electrical load.
 
Thx Guys will monitor it and advise my findings.The LED rear tail light bulb was a godsend, no more
rear blown bulbs and less draw on the system.
 
Note: Had to pull the Led bulb out, checked my Votage after a 1/2 hr ride and was showing 16 Volts !!
Installed the old bulb and back to 14.5. Not sure why that is but not interested in trying to get it to work correctly and
possibly bake my battery and who knows what else.The light was great at night though and kinda bummed
it didn't work out.Anyone want a new bulb cheap?
 
It appears the Chrysler regulator cannot further lower its current flow to the rotor. It has reached the bottom of it's control range, so the voltage goes high. Don't forget that the Chrysler regulator was designed to control a 60 amp car/truck alternator. You have reduced your bike's current draw to the point where an automotive regulator is just too large for your bike's 16 amp alternator.

If you want to keep using the LED head light, you would have to find an additional load that draws perhaps 3 amps.
 
Hmmmm ..does this mean with an LED headlight, we can run running lights at night?
 
Head light switch is always off on my bikes guess the ways previous owner has it wired, not sure if stock but
once the bikes on and running the the on off switch has no effect BUT if I turn motor off and leave key on I can
turn the headlight on and off with the headlight switch.I believe the original owner changed all the handlebar
switches act to Mikes and so my 77 may have a switch from a different year or not who knows.
 
Ahh.. well it makes no difference I was just wondering.
I hope RG chimes in again about your question for a different regulator.
When I read his post I did some googling and found several 30 amp regulators?
 
In any electrical system, including your everyday house hold 110/220 volt power, supplied by your power company, the power produced needs to equal the power consumed by the loads. Whenever too large of an imbalance occurs, bad things happen.
The PMA lads commonly burn up regulators and/or stators when they have imbalances.

An automotive regulator, such as the VR-115 that I use, works well with my incandescent head light, because my bike consumes enough current to keep the VR-115 within its control range. However trying to use an automotive regulator with an LED tail light and LED headlight, means you are asking the regulator to do something it was not designed to do.

If you could find a regulator that was designed to work with say a 30 amp alternator, that might be able to control a 16 amp alternator.
Perhaps from a small car. I'm only guessing. I'm not going to do any research.....................you would have to do that.

A simple solution, is to install some device that uses approximately 3 to 4 amps, to replace the current that you removed by using the LED head light. Again, you guys do the research.
 
Interesting ideas. I run a 35/35W H4 headlight and when I replaced the tail lights with LEDs the regulator voltage went from a consistent 14.1V up to 14.3V. Perhaps I am approaching my regulators working limit also??
 
The alternator output is sufficient for the system or not. The regulator is working or not. I'm not going to fuss about .2-.3 volts. You guys will have your system "balanced" so you won't even need a regulator. No, I don't buy it.

Scott
 
Interesting ideas. I run a 35/35W H4 headlight and when I replaced the tail lights with LEDs the regulator voltage went from a consistent 14.1V up to 14.3V. Perhaps I am approaching my regulators working limit also??

.2 volts could have been the result of the ambient temperatures affect on the alternator/wires/battery/regulator.
 
The alternator output is sufficient for the system or not. The regulator is working or not. I'm not going to fuss about .2-.3 volts. You guys will have your system "balanced" so you won't even need a regulator. No, I don't buy it.

Scott
With the stock charging system (same as cars and trucks) you will always need a regulator, because the alternator voltage output varies with the rpm of the engine. If you always run your engine at a constant rpm (not practical for motorcycles), then it would be possible to eliminate the regulator.
 
With the stock charging system (same as cars and trucks) you will always need a regulator, because the alternator voltage output varies with the rpm of the engine. If you always run your engine at a constant rpm (not practical for motorcycles), then it would be possible to eliminate the regulator.

You put way too much faith into the charging set point of regulators and their consistency. Some brands, right out of the same box will have different cut-off points. You are always blaming the rest of the system for the differences in these regulators. I have only ever found one brand/type of regulator that has had consistent 14.2 volts cut-off points from one unit to another unit.

Scott
 
Thx Guys will monitor it and advise my findings.The LED rear tail light bulb was a godsend, no more
rear blown bulbs and less draw on the system.
I recently went to a rear LED also. It was a plug and play for the 1157 that I kept breaking filaments on.
The only thing is that it "flashes" at low rpm instead of just being dim. At 2000 rpm its twice as bright on both the tail light and brake light circuits.
Gonna try an LED for the front too I believe. untitled.png
Pictured is the rear one I used. No battery or cap using the Power-Dynamo system.
 
RG when the VR115 was developed you still had the option of using no lights? Saying daytime lights had not been mandated then. So what do you think used or consumed the electric load then? Thinking back other than the am(radio) I didn't have a huge electric load I controlled. Didn't have A/C, daytime head or running lights so what was the difference then vs. what the bikes require now for the VR115?
 
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