Installing a fuse on Electronic Ignition?

XS650D

XS650 Junkie
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Want to install an inline fuse, can someone advise what size and type of fuse and what
wire I install it on for a Pamco Electronic Ignition. ie: Red or green wire. (Very fine/thin wire)
 
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I do have an inline fuse under the right side cover that I believe runs to the red/white wire
30A 32V. That seems very high. Im not sure if its stock . Its the only fuse on bike.
Can I just change that to 7.5 A fuse?
 
I do have an inline fuse under the right side cover that I believe runs to the red/white wire
30A 32V. That seems very high. Im not sure if its stock . Its the only fuse on bike.
Can I just change that to 7.5 A fuse?

Hi XS650D: no - the fuse inside the RH sidecover runs the entire bike (or at least it does on my '76) - and I think that the correct rating is actually a 20 amp on that one.

Also - I would change it from the original glass in-line fuse holder to a modern blade fuse as shown below. These are MUCH more robust and it is way easier to find a replacement fuse if/when you blow the one that is on the bike.

The new 7.5 amp fuse should be dedicated to the PAMCO as shown in Jim's schematic above and you can get a nice little rubber holder for both of them at Princess Auto or CTC.
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Pete
 
ok thx will pick up a 20 amp and change out the main. I will pick up a small fuse holder as per pic
and install on the red/white going to the pamco and run it back to under the seat for ease of changing.
Thx guys
 
At Pamco Pete’s suggestion , I ran a wire back and placed the fuse under the seat for ease of access. The red wire in this photograph.
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Then later the final installation with protective loom over the wire and everything secured.
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Why not use a relay to switch power to coils and ignition controller? Less wiring if the relay is mounted near the coils. With an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible.

On my 77 D model, the kill switch had a ridiculously high resistance, and I guess the ignition switch was ok only because I had to replace it after I lost the keys.......
 
What Pete likes to see is the coil fused. That could include the Pamco as well depending on how you have it wired. Jim's diagram would cover (fuse) both. Apparently, if the coil shorts out, it can back-feed into the Pamco and take it out too.
 
Pretty sure the fuse under the right hand cover should be a 10 Amp.
Edit: wrong - 20 Amp sorry
(FWIW, my 76 with Pamco and PMA does fine with a 10 Amp)
 
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What Pete likes to see is the coil fused. That could include the Pamco as well depending on how you have it wired. Jim's diagram would cover (fuse) both. Apparently, if the coil shorts out, it can back-feed into the Pamco and take it out too.

Just to be transparent.... that drawing came from Pete's website. I just photoshopped the fuse onto it. But yeah.... what 5t said.
 
Friend has a pamco and we took it of and added to my system including his coil.
No spark so we cut the Electronic Advance off (added mechanical advance) and presto, spark, bike ran and ran and idled great!
Went for a 1/2 hr ride, charging for most part on LED was 13.7 volts and after approx 20 min
raised up to 14.1 to 14.2 volts.I had to stop for a minute and accidentally hit the kill switch and then tried to restart
,bike back fired loud but started and ran second try, strange. All was well and continued on for another 15-20 minutes
and bike ran great. Note, I did notice that on LED the voltage at times would spike or drop to 13.2 from 14.2 volts
When I arrived home I turned bike off then went to restart to move and no go, NO SPARK AGAIN !
I either fried another ignition , bad connection or the backfire with the kill switch created a surge or short.
The inline fuse should help until I have this rectified.
 
I am not able to see how a fuse would protect the electronics from any voltage spikes.
A fuse mainly limits the current. Other devices may work better for capping any voltage spikes.
 
I am not able to see how a fuse would protect the electronics from any voltage spikes. A fuse mainly limits the current.
You are correct about a fuse not protecting against voltage spikes. The fuse is there to protect the transistor that controls the coil from over current. If the coil shorts internally it could pass enough current to destroy the transistor.
 
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