Interesting Carb Contents

SlowMaintenance

'76 XS650 Chopper
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Hey everyone, so my brother just moved home from Philadelphia and with him he brought the 1980 XS chopper he purchased from a guy out in Ohio. It wouldn't start when we got it back so I figured we'd clean out the carbs and see what the problem was.

I've done plenty of work on my bike but when it came to carb choice I went with a brand new single VM36 so I wasn't very familiar with what to expect from stock carbs, seeing as I sold mine without even opening them up. Here's what I found when we opened his.

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Closer shot of that red liquid

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And a glamour shot of the bike itself

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So obviously something is wrong. The tank isn't red koted, and the red coating was only in ONE of the two carbs so I don't believe it came from the tank. A friend of mine suggested it could be silicone used to seal the carb, and the torn gasket we found on that carb would support that theory. Curious to know your thoughts as well.

Needless to say, we spent a good deal of time spraying carb cleaner throughout the various areas including the main, pilot and air jets checking visually to confirm the passageways were not clogged and all appeared to be in good standing. When we were finished cleaning there was not one spec of red left in that carb.

Before closing them back up though, I thought I'd confirm that the float levels were set correctly. Seeing two different floats in the carbs was a big concern as I've never seen them mixmatched like that. There's some confusion as to whether this bike was a 79 or an 80 but this seems more like a PO replacing one with the incorrect float set. Either way, brass floats should sit at 27mm and plastic floats at 22mm. This is assuming these are BS34 carbs which they appear to be.

In checking the levels the brass float carb was set correctly at 27mm. Perfect. Checking the plastic float carb found something unusual though. The float was set at 24mm, but it was bottomed out on the carb body. This is to say that the height of the actual float was such that it could not be adjusted any lower than 24mm. This makes me think that the PO installed plastic floats in a carb that wasn't meant to have that style. Can anyone confirm if that conclusion makes sense?

I set both floats to 27mm for the time being, as lowering the plastic float height was not possible and I opted for consistency between the two settings. We put the carbs back on the bike and fired her up. Got her running but signs are pointing to a lean condition with a wandering idle. Did some tweaking to the throttle cable slack and also to the idle screw but I couldn't get rid of two things...the wandering idle and a very slow throttle response.

I didn't take the tops of the carbs off so I'm thinking there may be more issues that lie underneath those covers, also the torn gaskets on these carbs will need to be replaced so maybe there is an air leak from there if that's possible.

Big thank you to Griz and 5twins as your carb guide helped me to get this far along, now I'm just throwing this post up here so anyone with some additional insight can chime in if I'm missing something.

Tonight I'm heading back over there to check his cam chain tension, valve lash and timing. The bike has the stock TCI charging system and I believe a points ignition. I'll confirm tonight when I pull the covers. We also need to reweld the frame downpost which the previous owner was riding with ONLY A TACK WELD. Ugh
 
Brass floats were stock in the 1980 BS34s. Plastic floats were stock in all the later BS34s. They can be swapped but that plastic float you have isn't a 650 one. I don't know what it's from. There's no way to know what it's setting should be. About the only way you might be able to set it is by using the clear tube method. But, it's possible it can't be set right because of clearance issues. Best bet would be to get another 650 brass float to replace it or get 2 correct 650 plastic floats and replace both. The plastic floats are darn near indestructible. They're a solid foam plastic so can never spring a leak like a brass one. A couple used 650 plastic floats would probably be the cheapest option.

If going new, I don't recommend the replacements from Mike's. The brass ones spring leaks rather quickly and the plastic ones are a loose, sloppy fit. They don't meter fuel consistently because of that. Best floats come right from Yamaha, expensive but the best.

K&N filter oil is red like that stuff you found. Maybe the P.O. over-oiled the pod on that side. Those pods you have are junk. You won't be able to tune the carbs correctly with them. UNI foam pods work best.
 
Sounds good, we've ordered a new brass float for the carb that has the random plastic one. Also ordered two new gaskets for the carbs.

As for the pods, Amazon has the best deal on those, and I think I'll even pick one up for my bike as well, I've got one of those knockoff "XS" K&N style filters, not sure if they're too great.

Regarding the fuel stabilizer, I don't think that's the cause. If it were, it would be in both carbs.
 
Since we have the PO's scoped out as hackers, I'd be pulling and probably replacing the float valves or at least the float valve o-rings, lets you check the screens in there also. If the springs are good the viton tipped valves tend to seal fine and not need replacing.
 
With the BS34 carbs your bike is more likely an 80. The 79 used the BS38 carbs.
On the ignition the 79 used points and two coils. The 80 used the Transistor Controlled Ignition, or TCI for short. The TCI is only the ignition, It has nothing to do with the charging system.
The 79 used a separate regulator and rectifier, in 80 they changed the way the brushes were wired and used a solid state combo reg/rec. This was a good upgrade.
It may have had the TCI box or pickups go bad an instead of fixing them the put in points, not a hard task but some like points.
If it has points I might suggest upgrading the ignition. I like the Pamco, I have the E-advance version in two of my bikes. One was a 75 and I don't care much for the way Yamaha did the points on these bikes. The other is an 82 that the battery was dead on and the PO jumped it from his car with the car running and fried the TCI box and pick ups.
It still needs carb work but it does run a bit now.
Leo
 
Oh, when welding on the frame it's recommended to not only unhook the battery but unhook the ignition too. Both power and ground. Maybe even remove from bike. Hate to see you destroy the ignition to fix the frame.
Leo
 
So my brother ordered the floats from Mikes and unfortunately they don't fit. Are these not BS34's? The description on Mike's said it should fit a 1980. Idk what happened here. (The mikes part is on the right)

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Today I took a little time to set the mix screws at 3 turns out, and loosened the screws on the butterflys and snapped them back a couple times to make sure he was getting a good seat with them closed as that could have been the wandering idle issue. I held them up to the sun and couldn't see any light behind them so that's a good sign. A quick tip for anyone reading this that's thinking about trying the same...don't forget to turn your idle screw all the way OUT first or you won't get them to seat no matter what you do. The little screw on the shaft that connects them will help you dial things in further from there.

Anyways, back to the process. The float didn't work so we went ahead and put the black plastic float back in for now as it's not going to run the bike well but it does allow us to close the carb back up and I DID see this bike run with that float in there so it'll have to do for now.

In the meantime I'm wondering if it's even worth it with these old carbs he's got. I didn't bother for my build and went with a mikuni right off the bat and had zero issues. I don't want him to have to spend a fortune to get this bike running but these carbs are certainly not in the best of shape.
 
Those carbs don't look too bad. I've seen and renovated worse. Looks like Mike's sent you a BS38 float. Same style/type, only larger.
 
They have another, just don't list it as fitting the 650 in the title description. They say it's for the 400, 500, 750, and 1100. Seems they got stupid in their old age, lol. But like I told you already, don't buy floats from them, they're junk. You can probably fix those carbs up for about $50. A set of aftermarket VMs will set you back near $400.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3F7-14985-00-00.html
 
Dam,...If they weren't on special i would be cheaper to buy new carbs.........Exaggeration by 2%............

Wouldn't it be cheaper to change to the foam floats
 
All the floats are roughly $35-40 each so if I go plastic it's $80 for just the floats. Also the gaskets from mikes aren't a great fit either so those will probably need to be swapped as well.

The biggest difference I notice between the two is the (lack of) throttle response. My Mikuni VM36 is immediate. These CV type are very laggy which makes it tough for him to learn his take offs. We will do what we can with them and see what happens.
 
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