Next time hook the ground lead to the knurled end of the clamps screew I believe it made that way to get a better electrical path, or maybe to let the vice grips hold better!
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Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools
m Today on the VFT.
Things that make you go hummmmm.
Hi halfmile,
while I'm pretty sure that photo is a joke, I have seen micrometers used as C-clamps in real life.
By a toolroom journeyman, too. He shoulda been ashamed of himself.
And Ken, that's a vise-grip. A vice grip is what naughty ladies have.
New toy. Bench top model. Trouble is I have no empty bench top space.
I prescribe to the theory: If you buy it you will make room.
I prescribe to the theory: If you buy it you will make room.
Written like it was from personal experience?
Maybe I should have said "Mole Grips"?
That will be handy on a milling machine. Like a poor mans dividing head.
Hi Ken,
I've never had the need, or indeed the opportunity, to employ the services of a rent-a-lady so, no.
The first self-grip wrench i owned was a genuine Mole. Made by the Elmo company in the UK.
A genuine Mole wrench and it's Vise-grip copy are quality tools.
Their el-cheapo 3rd world knock-offs, not so much.
Latest additions. My spindle taper is "okay", ish. I was doing a lot of repeated setups so collets it is.
I have a MT2 roughing and finish taps as well as a lap. We'll see how this goes.
At this point anything would be better than nulling TIR in a 4 jaw 4 times per part times 16. (valve guides)
or twice per part on .238" or turning 10" pilots between centers .
The pilots are 6mm one end and valve stem size plus a bit , plus taper, on the other end.
Now imagine trying to eliminate TIR, and taper across 6" @ .238" on my little 6" lathe....
Then imagine inducing .002" taper across 6" @ whatever valve stem size.
I should have just called it a grinding job and bid it out , but
I tried that and the response was well over $200 for the first and never getting it under $50.
Next stupid lathe trick I attempt will be the air die grinder/tool-post/abortifact.
I tried to heat treat the drill rod and came out with pretzel.
Rough turn, harden, temper back, grind....
I'm not looking forward to all that grinding dust all over my lathe.
to be continued
Got my wheel truing stand finished today, and already used it. I took inspiration from the motion pro single sided stand, and simplified it. Indicator is mounted in a noga arm because it's the first mag base I grabbed, and the indicator because I haven't made a pointer yet.
Also got the gas heater in for the garage, just gotta buy some fittings and hose to hook it up.
Also got the gas heater in for the garage, just gotta buy some fittings and hose to hook it up.
Like the looks of the trueing stand. Very cool!
Don't want anything to do with that type heater. If I'm correct it's vent-less. Burns up oxygen in room, causes condensation. Plus considered open flame, not good in a shop or garage. Lots of building codes do not allow them in garages.
Yeah, it's ventless. I have a gas furnace and water heater in the garage, so already have flame. Plus I don't store chemicals inside due to the hazard around welding. And when it rains water comes under the door. It'll only be run to heat up the garage then shut down while I work.
So, I needed the bracket as I ran out of room on the AB slot.
"When calculating the ratios, ignore any idler gears; the 20 and 24 in your tumbler and the 40 in position-B.
Reduction = (32/32) * (32/36) * (20/46) * (44/54) = 0.3149
16 TPI / 0.3149 = 50.81 TPI.
*Courtesy of Brett Riggs gofastforless.com /mrriggs@gofastforless.com
Brett is another of my recurring victims when it comes to odd machine issues.
The original bushing was an issue on the bracket slot. It had too much chamfer and seized on tightening. I used the sharp shoulder from the one I made and moved the original to the bracket attachment/position "B".
The "A" and "B" bushings are upside down , shoulder to the outside.
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Teddytootired
XS650 Addict
Suggest that you use electric radiant safer and maybe cost effective
I use electric to keep my shop at 70. Only 500sf. It's well insulated, costs around $100 a month in the winter.
mmm 70f!
I fire up the basement wood stove, open the doors to the garage, and turn on a fan, after a couple hours it's often up to 50 sometimes more. Just ordered a pair of electric socks 3.7 volt lithium ion batteries. I can stand pretty cool temps if my toes are warm.
Was out in the shed polishing a fork lower on the big buffer this morning. 20F but the buffer heats up the aluminum so my hands stayed warm. Back on the couch waiting for my toes to warm up.
I fire up the basement wood stove, open the doors to the garage, and turn on a fan, after a couple hours it's often up to 50 sometimes more. Just ordered a pair of electric socks 3.7 volt lithium ion batteries. I can stand pretty cool temps if my toes are warm.
Was out in the shed polishing a fork lower on the big buffer this morning. 20F but the buffer heats up the aluminum so my hands stayed warm. Back on the couch waiting for my toes to warm up.
I have spent enough time working in the cold. Not going to do it if I don't have to.
Heater is 240VAC 30 amp.
Wood walls are R22, ceiling is about R40 or more, the wing walls 8 inch concrete and the back wall 10 inch concrete. Back wall is in a hill, hill goes 8 feet up the wall. A lot of the wing walls have dirt against them.
I like to drink cold beer, not drink in the cold.
Teddytootired
XS650 Addict
Teddytootired
XS650 Addict
Electric radiant is kinda what I meant. And a wood stove good idea. Got propane radiant in the shop now thinking about installing electric radiant it is greener and maybe be the same cost. It warms all solid objects including you and your mass heats the air or ass
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