Is this an acceptable chain and sprocket set?

Looks alright to me. 30 days money back in case it's a 30 footer.
 
Looks like agricultural chain, which wont last long, and in turn eat up what could be giod sprockets.
 
I like the ease of maintenance that I've gotten from RK X ring chain and JT sprockets. I tried the #50 farm store chain, couldn't keep up with the maintenance. My son is a good test for chains, he can rip through a chain in no time, maybe two adjustments in three years with the RK chain. I'm only buying RK X ring chains from now on. Sometimes the longer chains at Amazon are a better price, about $70.

Scott
 
These bikes greatly benefit from a slight gearing change. For that reason, I would recommend sourcing the drive components individually. You could pretty much match that kit price if you shop around, maybe even beat it. I would recommend the stock front 17T but drop the rear 1 tooth to a 33. D.I.D. makes one of the best standard chains and you can get one for about $40. If you want to save some money and take a chance, you might try one of these .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311691812998?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I bought a couple and they look pretty nice. They are a well known brand (Takasago, they made your wheel rims) and made in Japan. I think they may be a decent chain for the money.
 
I ordered a DID chain from EBay for $40, and got the sprockets from Mikes. All in for around $100.
Thanks again 5 Twins for the recommendation! Also went with the 33 tooth rear sprocket as recommended.
 
Chains have a strength rating. They start down close to 45-47 hundred ft lbs and go up over 10 thousand. You get what you pay for. Cheap chain stretches easily and has never been worth the money or hassle.
 
These bikes greatly benefit from a slight gearing change. For that reason, I would recommend sourcing the drive components individually. You could pretty much match that kit price if you shop around, maybe even beat it. I would recommend the stock front 17T but drop the rear 1 tooth to a 33. D.I.D. makes one of the best standard chains and you can get one for about $40. If you want to save some money and take a chance, you might try one of these .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311691812998?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I bought a couple and they look pretty nice. They are a well known brand (Takasago, they made your wheel rims) and made in Japan. I think they may be a decent chain for the money.
I got that chain in the mail today. They sent me a 90 link chain instead of a 108. Quite a shock to see when you're preparing to cut links off of it :D
 

Attachments

  • 20170522_183045.jpg
    20170522_183045.jpg
    198.5 KB · Views: 76
I have to say that the seller certainly made good. He sent a refund, sent a replacement chain, and told me to keep the old chain. I paid for the replacement with the refund even though he didn't require it. Now...if the chain is just good :)
 
The chain I mentioned looks well-made. The rollers appear to be parkerized instead of chrome. The side plates have a quite a bit narrower waist to the figure-8 shape than the Izumi from Mike's that I've been using. So it might stretch faster, don't know. The plates are all stamped 530H though.
 
Looks like agricultural chain, which wont last long, and in turn eat up what could be giod sprockets.
Not sure what agricultural chain is, but "industrial" chain is actually supposed to be stronger than equivalent motorcycle chain. It's usually called something like 50H as opposed to something like 530H for mc chain. BUT, at this point it time supposedly they're both equally strong.
 
The chain I mentioned looks well-made. The rollers appear to be parkerized instead of chrome. The side plates have a quite a bit narrower waist to the figure-8 shape than the Izumi from Mike's that I've been using. So it might stretch faster, don't know. The plates are all stamped 530H though.
Welllll... I've had it on for about 400 mi. and I can't really see any obvious stretching at all. What I've been used to is pretty severe stretching for the first couple hundred miles then it slows down some. So I'm gunna buy some more. Lots of ppl selling it on ebay, must have brought over a container full from going out of business sale in Japan? Maybe discontinued line or something.

Here's how to cut it to 104 links (or whatever you need) if you don't know how. First, lay it on the ground and count out 104 rollers. I dragged a stick along them to help me count. Then I put bread ties around one side of the chain on both sides of the pin I needed to remove to give me 104 rollers, to mark the pin. Then I counted out 104 rollers again. And then again.... :) When you are satisfied, take a Dremel or other grinder and grind off the end of that pin. Grind well into the side plate. Then grind the same side of the other pin on the same side plate the same way. Then take a messed up flat screwdriver and tap it down between the side plate and the roller to pop the side plate off. You're done!
 
I've always used a Nail set Punch to separate my chains that way I can re assemble them as well !
I first count the links needed and then double check ( yes you'ed be suprised how many times you can count them links and come up with diferent amounts each time !!!!!!!!)
anyway ...... I usually use an old 3/8" socket upside down so the square hole is centered on the back side of the pin this is for support
on a concrete floor or anvil.... the chain must be flat ! this is very important ! so block up the other end of the chain on a 2x4 !
take a Medium sized hammer and drive the pin 7/8 the way through the entire link almost all the way out and then spred the link a bit to get it to seperate completely with a big screw driver.... now you have a pin still stuck in the link of the scrap piece you can drive it back through and have a repair piece if needed....
I have used a grinder before on seperating links but I don't like to as it ruens one link and 2 pins....
and I have found that there are times when you NEED those pins or link pieces !
........
Putting a raw link back together again is simple the hard part is making sure the link plates are parallel... this can be done easy in a vice, just put the links in the way you want it and use the vice to press the pin home ..... finishing up with a hammer is usually required to get the pin perfectly centered.....
this is extreamily helpfull when dealing with a bike that you have a trail sprocket for but don't alwayse use so it's on and off allot
2 safty links cure allot of problems there just take the section out for the street sprocket or put it in for the trail sprocket
One of the early honda trail 90's had a trail sprocket that was cut in half so you could mount it right over the street sprocket
it worked grate and gave you a grandma LOW gear that would climb trees if needed !!!!!
.....
btw a nail set punch is a steel punch that has a small straight shaft almost the same diameter as the chain pins.... and is a very hard punch
( at least a good one is )
a 10 penny nail with the point ground off may do the job if you don't have the punch but care must be used to hit the hail flatly or it will bend.
.....
I had the misfortune of having to repair a chain along the road one time as the safety link came apart and was lost and I didn't have another in my tool kit.... I was 30 miles out in the back of beyond up a logging road when this happened.... I found a fence line and checked out the posts for a nail the right size but all they had was Horse shoe nails in them so I just cept looking and sure enough finally found 2 nails the right size ..... I had a spare section of chain from replacing the chain and sprockets recently... ( I guess I didn't put the safety link on correctly or I wouldn't have had the problem ) anyway I had a 6" piece of hack saw blade in my tool kit as well as plyers various wrenches and a short handled crescent wrench... it took a long time with a rock and many straightenings of the nails to get the next link out of the piece of chain but with the link out I could finally connect the chain.... I used the plyers and every bit of strength I had to press the pins through the links but they just would not go.... I got them started is all and smacked them a bit more with the granite rock I had been using and that was the best I could do... so I turned around and headed for home.... sot about 15 miles and it came apart again on a hill....
I pulled up a steel fence post and wedged it behind the links and finally got the pins to go through the links on the outside... then went home ....( after I put the fence post back..... it was well over 100deg that day and by the time I got home I was beat...
but before I did anything i went to my tool box and got 2 extra chain links and set them on the seat !
.... lesson learned,...... never leave home without extra chain safety links !
.....
I up grades my tool kit after that to have every tool needed for a complete bike tear down... including a hammer ! chisel and punches
I carried this in a tool box strapped on the sissy bar for years !
My tool kit right now is non-existent ! if it brakes I walk !
....lol !
....
Bob..........
 
Yes, I've heard of using a punch. I don't like to unleash power unless I've seen one done first though :) With a Dremel this is like one minute each pin though. You have the best stories! You must be crazy.
 
I grind the pins flush like you do then use a combination of prying and a punch. Sometimes prying won't budge the plate until I break it free from the pin with a punch. I also have chain breakers but grind the heads off the pins first with those too. Saves some wear and tear on the chain breaker pin.

Glad to hear that chain is turning out to be a good one. I bought 2 already, maybe I should get more? I got them mostly as spares and to pass on to local guys in need. Most of the local 650s I work on are pretty clapped out, lol.
 
^As far as I can tell it seems like a good money saver, for anybody. I'll post here if it dramatically makes me eat my words :) Thanks for the recommendation.
 
Back
Top