It's 1979, it's purple, and it's Special

[Grimly]

Mikunis back on and roughly clankerated (slides clank down simultaneously) enough to start. The standby battery is mullered so the fire wouldn't light, but a fresh battery sorted that and all the kicking over with the dead one certainly brought a willingness to wake up.
Amusingly, it started fine with no choke, and the old coal-fired locomotive smell re-inforced my suspicion that it's simply far too rich - confirmed by the gust of black soot when the throttle is blipped.
However, when warmed up it settled down nicely to a mild tickover at 800rpm, both cylinders pulling their weight, if not quite evenly. Exhaust pipe IR readings reveal the LH cylinder is over-fuelled or the RH one under-fuelled - a difference of 30degC. I don't trust this IR thermometer to give anywhere near accurate readings in that range, as it's way over what it's supposed to do, but the difference is repeatable, so likely reliable as an indicator.
Tomorrow, more fiddling.

 

[Grimly]

More fiddling.
Did the valve clearances yesterday - they were ok, with one exhaust and one inlet slightly slack but nothing worth noting. Of more annoyance was the stripped thread into the alloy of the head where one of the studs to hold on the left inlet inspection cap goes. Ordered up a set of M6 helicoils to fix that and the sump plate properly.

The Mikuni VM34s are handed L-R versions and so far as I can see, the only difference between them is the side the air adjuster screw is on. Given that, why on Earth did the PO or someone mount the carbs with the screws facing each other, on the insides?
Made it nearly impossible to adjust the slide bottoming setting.
I swapped them over so the screws are easily accessible from outside, and the idle air/fuel mix on the (now left) carb is still reachable with a long screwdriver from the RH side.

 

[Grimly]

Today, temporarily fitted the stripped stud with AbroSteel (which had set rock-hard from yesterday) and installed the valve adjuster cap, then set about starting it and warming it up for a timing check.
Intrigued to find the Boyer Digital ignitor has inbuilt advance, so the bob-weights have long since been binned and I hope I never need to find another set at short notice. Anyway, a couple of priming prods on the kick lever, switch it on and it starts nicely from cold now, even with the carbs being disturbed greatly when swapped around. Warmed it up, set the carbs again (vac gauges and colourtune) and checked the sparks - spot on, as expected.
Evidence of old oil leaks from the timing advance oil seal showed up with a vengeance today and it's obvious a new seal is needed there. I may as well buy a complete engine kit instead of bits and pieces.
Been looking at the possibility of fitting a 17" rear wheel to it, with the intention of only needing to have one size of rear tyre for all three bikes and discovered the GS500E wheel is a good fit - just have to find a smaller sprocket for it.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

"Clankerated". I like that. Appropriate for slide carbs.

The forum's google search on "camshaft oil seal" will yield several handy tidbits on that task.

Many folks here never used a "colourtune", probably curious about it. Care to elaborate?

 

[Grimly]

This is one of the best descriptions of the use of it I've found...
http://www.gadgetjq.com/ctune.htm
It really is a marvellous little gadget - been around since the 60s or early 70s iirc, and because it's so simple, there's nothing really to go wrong - it just works.
Some people don't like them - either they are just clueless or they are a bit snotty about such simple low-tech devices, seeing as how they're probably invested in hi-tech kit
The standard car-sized one (14mm) fits the XS, and there are thousands of this model kicking around the UK - if anyone wants one, they can be picked up for a couple of quid at boot sales, etc. Even on ebay UK they don't fetch a lot, and generally speaking a 20 year old one is as good as a new one. They get used once in a while and get put back in the box.

 

[Grimly]

After seeing this chart here, I realised one of the causes...

One of the niggling oil leaks was caused by the two middle dome nuts having no copper crush washers at all - sheesh, some people.
The other one is where a pair of stripped threads exist on the oil pan plate - there's enough good thread to just grip and with the aid of some Hylomar on the bolt heads and washers, it will do for now. I intend to mod a spare plate to carry an external filter, so once I do that and swap it out, I'll repair the threads then.

 

[Grimly]

Trial fitting the XS400 tank in conjunction with the ZRX400 seat, reveals a pleasing combo. There's a slight gap, but when the fixing lugs of the tank and seat are sorted properly, they'll exist quite well together.
Don't think I'll bother messing around with hinges - under the tank securing bracket there's a nice space for a tongue from the seat to go under, and I can devise a QR latch for the rear. The seat sits perfectly on the frame rails, as if made for them. With the addition of some rubber bumpers, it will work well.

 

[Grimly]

Re-tackled the brakes again yesterday and today. I'd put the calipers back on last time only to see how bad they were and to use the handlebar lever to pop the pistons if necessary. Turned out it was very necessary.
The LH caliper popped apart easily enough, and revealed a piston that was very slightly pitted, but cleaned up well enough with a touch of emery and wire wheel. I'll put that on the list for replacement; even though it's gone back on the bike, I would like to know items like that are as they should be. That caliper struck me as having been rebuilt / renewed at some point - the seal was perfect, as was the dust boot. Given the bike is 36 years old, it's likely that someone did a brake rebuild before I got it.
The second piston took some moving - the master cylinder wasn't shifting it, and the application of a blowtorch to the caliper body had it moving eventually under pressure. In spite of this being much more stuck, the piston was entirely unmarked and doesn't need replaced. The seal is totally gubbered though. So, that's a new piston and a seal kit needed.

 

[5twins]

There are stainless pistons available for not much more than the standard steel item. That's what I'd go with if I needed a replacement. I use compressed air to remove stuck pistons. It doesn't do bad things to a seal like a blow torch does, lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280950460845?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Grimly]

The stuck caliper had been missing its boot for many miles - just part of the run-down process the PO had given it - and the caliper was reluctant to let go of its buddy. It wasn't the heat that wrecked the seal - the caliper didn't get any hotter than it would have done under hard braking down a mountain pass - but the seal was truly fastened tight with some weird bonding thing going on with road dirt, salt, rubber and chrome. I was quite surprised to find the piston was untouched and cleaned up easily once out.

Yeah, I'd spotted the SS piston on Mike's and went looking for them closer to home; I can get a SS piston / seals from twowheelsfrank in Germany and very low shipping cost to Ireland too. The XS was a very popular bike there and still has a substantial and keen userbase.
I think this is the same seller as you mention...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130801501461
Different name for the European market - probably helps in keeping the books straight, separating them out.

 

[peanut]

Yambits are also a good UK supplier .
http://yambits.co.uk/xs650se-brake-caliper-piston-stainless-steel-p-52718.html

you might find this thread useful for brake parts identification and supply bottom of first page
http://www.customxs650.com/index.php/topic,1270.0.html

 

[Grimly]

Nope, had a look at Yambits and they want to stitch me for postage, same as many other UK stockists, so I'll be dealing with the Germans. 10 quid postage on 10 quid part is taking the proverbial.
Now, not all UK suppliers are like that - I know for a fact they aren't as I've had many parts sent very cheaply, for just over the cost of actual postage and envelope, so when I find one who isn't flexible I tend to avoid them.
Here's what I'm talking about...
If there was only a quid or two postage on a small part I'd order them as I need them, and since I'm doing this on a tight budget, I am not in a position to go buying everything I need at the one time, as they obviously want me to do.

 

[peanut]

that does look a bit steep its true but then Heiden Tuning (Germany) charge a minimum order charge of 15 euros before shipping !

I don't know of any UK or German supplier that ships to Ireland or the Channel isles for the same price as inland UK shipping. ?

twowheelsfrank charge 9.95 Euros for a battery strap and 6.5 Euros shipping to Ireland ! how is that cheaper than Yambits ?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/YAMAHA-XS-2-XS-650-750-850-BATTERIE-HALTEBAND-120-82131-00-00-BAND-BATTERY-/381152897070?pt=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item58be7ba82e#shpCntId

We all have to pay the going rate for shipping and its always a lot more expensive when its not inland .

Companies have overheads . Someone needs to pay a persons wages to locate and pick your part from stock, package it up, print a label and delivery note etc. Where do you think that comes from ? it certainly couldn't come from the profit of selling a battery strap.
I've twice gone out of my way to try help you with information from my own 79 build and both times had it shoved back in my face without any thanks ! good luck with your project

 

[Grimly]

Twowheelsfrank will send me a seal kit and a gas cap for a total of €6 shipping.
Your 'help' firstly related to an uninformed rant about silicone gasket - which I've been using professionally for decades. Then you point me towards a supplier I already know about and have put on the back burner because they aren't very good on shipping cost.
Whilst I appreciate your attempts to help, they're not really helpful.

Thanks for your good wishes.

 

[fredintoon]

Here's what I'm talking about...
If there was only a quid or two postage on a small part I'd order them as I need them, and since I'm doing this on a tight budget, I am not in a position to go buying everything I need at the one time, as they obviously want me to do.

Hi Dave,
I don't see the shipping cost as unreasonable. It costs the same to pay someone to box up the part and lug it to the post office no matter what the part costs.
But £4.99 + VAT for a battery strap fer Chrissake?
That's what'd have me bending up little rectangles out of welding rod and hacking a slice off an old inner tube.

 

[Grimly]

Hi Dave,
I don't see the shipping cost as unreasonable. It costs the same to pay someone to box up the part and lug it to the post office no matter what the part costs.

They're losing sight of the number of small parts they can get out the door on small sale transactions. They're failing to take an overall view - I for one will not be dealing with sellers who fail to meet my expectations in this regard.
Otoh, I have no hesitation in sending repeat business to the London Suzuki Centre (as was, now Franco's) because the guy there will cheerfully stick a seal in an envelope and send me it out for a quid.

But £4.99 + VAT for a battery strap fer Chrissake?
That's what'd have me bending up little rectangles out of welding rod and hacking a slice off an old inner tube.

Oh, I'd thought of doing that, and I will yet. There's a balance to be struck between paying good money for stuff that is safety-critical and stuff that isn't, yet is priced like it is. Also, the restorers are driving up prices - the sellers know that a lot of people will pay silly prices for some bits. I have a friend who breaks Honda 400 Fours almost exclusively and what people pay for some bits that a few years ago were worth scrap value would have you spitting your porridge out.

 

[Grimly]

XS400 tank now equipped with two rear-ward fuel outlets to utilise traditional on/off/res on the left and off/res on the right, which rather cunningly gives me a reserve and a deadly-serious-last-gasp reserve. Have to blank off the original petcock hole with a blanking plate and make new saddle mount for the front, using the original tank rubbers, but 2" further back.

 

[Grimly]

24th February...
Made the blanking plate from some scrap 3/8" (10mm) mild steel plate, with enough left over to make a couple of adapter plates for the GSs when I get around to replacing the petcocks on them. The older GS petcock responded well to a replacement rubber multi-holed selection washer and some re-facing of the mating surfaces, but the newer one still has a tendency to leak very slightly, so might need total replacement.
The front brake seals arrived and are now in place with brakes bled up fine. I think I'll fit a Honda Deauville master cylinder, as I like the feel of them and they have an adjustable lever span, but that can wait.

Today...
Noticed a couple of weeks ago that one of the Hagon shocks had blown its guts, so was waiting on some new shock bushes to allow me to fit the old GS shocks to the XS. They arrived, that's done. I don't know whether the Hagons were the right size, but the GS ones are an inch longer at 13". Seems to make no difference to the ride height anyway, as these old original GS shocks feel more softly sprung than the Hagons. They'll do for now, just to get it back on the road. Given that I'd bought the GS shocks as used-but-good just to keep the Suzuki going when the Killer Pothole blew the air shocks on that, I wasn't expecting too much of them, but they worked well enough, if not fantastic. Amusingly, I only recently re-discovered the damping adjustment on them. I'd totally forgotten about that, since it's been so long since my last original set of GS shocks.
Here's a tip for anyone with OEM GS shocks - check under the rubber cap at the top for corrosion - my first set rotted away completely there, due to road salt being trapped underneath.

 

[Grimly]

Had got the XS400 tank back weeks ago from a local who brazed a couple of fuel tap outlets onto it. When I went to pick it up he told me he'd soldered them on. Ok, that would work, if the solder is good and properly done.
Only, it's not.
One of the fittings damn near came completely out of the tank at the slightest nudge today when I was painting it.
Can just imagine that happening when going along the road, so glad it happened now, before there was any fuel in it and it makes it easy to rectify.
Of course, it will wreck the paint I've now done, but it's not showroom, so I'm not too bothered about that. A few quick repair blasts will fix it.

Oh well; re-instate the Special tank for now. All that's wrong with it is the slightly leaky petcocks and they'll probably clean up ok. Push comes to shove, I can make a couple of adapter plates and fit the manual petcocks I'd bought for the XS400 tank.

 

[Grimly]

Great golloping blobs of Fry's Lead-Free solder fixed that up, good. Not pretty, but strong enough. Installed the taps - LH side, an On/Off/Res tap (must check the flow rate on that, as the main inlet pipe on it seems a bit thin) and the RH tap is a Reserve-only genuine BAP tap, as used to be fitted to many older bikes.
I think I'll get a BAP Main tap for the LH side and do away with niggling worry about the fuel supply. I'd hate for it to run into lean-out trouble later on, when it could be avoided.