It's gettin there

Another topic, are the barrel and or head painted from the factory? Or is what I'm looking is a natiral finish?
most are natural aluminum, some years used a mat black paint. It was prolly kind of special/high heat, it tended to fade or wear off quickly.
 
Ok, i was thinking with the forks off and bike on the stand, the best way to clean the front fins, nooks and crannies, etc.. thought about some intricate spot blasting?
 
I don't build show motors but mineral spirits in a spritzer bottle, various bore brushes and rags on thin sticks. Beer and music tends to ease the tedium.

Done that so far but with such nice original paint still on the cases, didnt want any thinner or mineral spirits to hit the cases and remove original paint.... Just me overthinkin things
 
Mineral spirits won't harm any decent dry paint. Including yamaha case paint. Won't bother even well dried modern rattle can paint.
 
A little carb cleaner and rags will remove stubborn stains, if you don't leave it on too long or scrub too hard it won't hurt case paint
 
I polished a rear wheel hub recently by using about 6 strands of binder twine, about three or four feet long, tied together on the ends. Metal polish and a sawing motion, worked good and fast. Binder twine might reach into some of those engine fins, don't know, I haven't tried it yet. Also, Harbor Freight sells an assortment of brushes that works for many places, buy two sets.

Scott
 
Changing subject here:

Read many posts about brake resurfacimg and drilled rotors. Not in the mood to resurface myself and definitely dont want to drill the holes. Dont see anybody local that offer the service although I'm sure there are.
Knowing that, is there a new product that comes already drilled and pretty for a stock 76 caliper?
 
What a difference some paint remover and 1 day can do? I covered my dirty, greasy wheel and forks in citrus paint remover to remove the clear coat, brushes on like a heavy gel, let it sit 1 day and wash off. NIGHT AND DAY, WILL GET EVEN BETTER ONCE POLISHED!
 

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What a difference some paint remover and 1 day can do? I covered my dirty, greasy wheel and forks in citrus paint remover to remove the clear coat, brushes on like a heavy gel, let it sit 1 day and wash off. NIGHT AND DAY, WILL GET EVEN BETTER ONCE POLISHED!

That’s the same product I used, I really like that citrus stripper. They look great!
 
It's amazing what a difference a shiny front end makes. That looks great.
Anyone have a recommendation for a clear coat to replace the factory clear ?
 
Changing subject here:
Read many posts about brake resurfacimg and drilled rotors. Not in the mood to resurface myself and definitely dont want to drill the holes. Dont see anybody local that offer the service although I'm sure there are.
I've used https://truedisk.net/ for my GPz. The disks came back looking fantastic and he'll drill them too. Not cheap but worth it IMO.
 
...Anyone have a recommendation for a clear coat to replace the factory clear ?

I used rattlecan Helmsman Spar clear urethane on my valve covers and steering damper knob. Convenient, tough, durable, holding up quite well.
Helmsman.jpg DamperKnobs25.jpg

But, there's better stuff out there. Forum searches on "clear aluminium" and "spraymax" will get you some of the posts...
 
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Citrus paint remover on the Aluminum wheels looks like an easy and great idea. Question, Does the finish on the spoke nipples suffer ? I would think so.
Can the wheels be stripped carefully so as to not damage the spoke nipples ?
Very tempting
:umm:
 
I used rattlecan Helmsman Spar clear urethane on my valve covers and steering damper knob. Convenient, tough, durable, holding up quite well.
Cool. I wasn't too sure how well urethane would grab onto bare metal. While not as wet as when I lived next to Galveston bay, exposed aluminium oxidizes pretty quickly here.And even better I have a can.
 
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