It's past time to start XS2 Resurrection

Mailman
I think it would be prudent to take a close look at your frame. It looks OK in your pic. Still look for cracks.
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beefing up can be endless but for mailman's I'd be thinking a piece of 3/32? plate bent to toa U or rounded V fitted and welded in on the front. Then again if it's to be gentlemans excursion bike, I don't think I'd worry about it, clean, check for any cracking, weld, reinforce a bit if needed, paint and move on.
 
Ok, just looked at my frame. The center spine post is very nearly dead center, not offset.
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I had started sanding the frame down here because battery acid had rusted it. So it was easy to inspect for cracks. I didn’t find any.
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The factory did a pretty good job of reinforcing other locations that were stress points
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But failed in that one location.
One other observation. A proper weld should have a slight crown to it and completely fill the space where it’s located, like this.
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On my bike ( and I suspect yours ) the sloppy weld undercut the edge of the tube causing a weak spot and just begging for a fracture. Most likely your break follows the edge of the weld.
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These old factory welds are just hideous. I just sold a Suzuki V Strom with an aluminum frame and every weld on that bike was a work of art.
 
Quick update.
It's in pieces.
View attachment 129234

Working on de-greasing and cleaning parts. Thinking about having frame powder coated. Got some feelers out to find somebody that's does good work in the area. I really don't want to try and paint it in my shop. But if I have to I will. Going to try to save the rims. Pretty rusty in spots. Trying a rust remover I've had some good luck with on rusty chrome nuts and bolts. I know the only way to make them perfect is to re-chrome or replace. I'll settle for presentable.

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G'day GLJ from Oz,

What is that rust removal solution you are using??

Looks very effective.

GW
 
Went and looked at a 71 roller in the shed, history unknown, but no question that it has some history, has 4 over forks. :rolleyes: Shows no evidence of cracking in this area.
 
Some of the welds on "The Basketcase" look like chewed-up bubble gum! :poo: :confused: Do you think it would be a good idea to grind them (lightly) and hit 'em again with the welder, or leave them alone? Also, after grinding, I was going to fill any 'pits' with brazing (my friend's shop is set up to do it), so as not to complicate powder-coating, and to give it that smooth, custom look, and it's easily sandable...
 
IMHO it's mainly about looks 'less you're going racing. Most old ahem Japanese welding looks like pidgeon shit. Lots of current production frames have cracking issues also, it's part of the game. While engine testing I rode an XS with one front downtube completely cut away. It was just a bit flexier than usual. IIRC SascaFred rode an XS with the swing arm pivot sticking out about 6".
 
G'day GLJ from Oz,

What is that rust removal solution you are using??

Looks very effective.

GW

On the chrome I took Mailmans advice and mechanically removed the surface rust using a Dremal with a brass wheel on it. Now I'm soaking them in Evapo-Rust. It's working but not near as well as it did on some bolts I experimented with last summer. May have to do with the temperature in my shop. Since cold weather has moved in I let the shop cool down to 55 at night and during the day 65 to 68.

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Last summer
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Looking at all those welds reminds me of the time I was following my friend on his 72 XS650. He had installed some custom bars which were welded twisted stock with a 10 inch rise. All of a sudden I see the throttle side brake off and dangling from his right hand. We were doing about 30. Not sure how he managed to stop it before crashing. I had a good laugh about it (and still do).
 
On the chrome I took Mailmans advice and mechanically removed the surface rust using a Dremal with a brass wheel on it. Now I'm soaking them in Evapo-Rust. It's working but not near as well as it did on some bolts I experimented with last summer. May have to do with the temperature in my shop. Since cold weather has moved in I let the shop cool down to 55 at night and during the day 65 to 68.

View attachment 129473 View attachment 129471 View attachment 129472

Last summer
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That shit looks like it is the biz.

I wonder if it works better when the temperature is higher!!

GW
 
geedubya
Added some heat to the process yesterday. Looks like it's working better. Put a few more rusty bits in today. We'll see how they look tomorrow.
Did a google search on your name. Pretty colorful. How do you pronounce that. I know a few people it could apply to.
1 definition by Gee Dubya. Top Definition. fuckwit. A real elmore, maroon, jackweed or botard. Clueless fucktard. Dimwit doesn't do you justice. You are a fuckwit

 
geedubya
Added some heat to the process yesterday. Looks like it's working better. Put a few more rusty bits in today. We'll see how they look tomorrow.
Did a google search on your name. Pretty colorful. How do you pronounce that. I know a few people it could apply to.
1 definition by Gee Dubya. Top Definition. fuckwit. A real elmore, maroon, jackweed or botard. Clueless fucktard. Dimwit doesn't do you justice. You are a fuckwit

Wondering, like your Avatar says, was that comment alcohol induced or was it made while sober? :popcorn:

Scott
 
geedubya
Added some heat to the process yesterday. Looks like it's working better. Put a few more rusty bits in today. We'll see how they look tomorrow.
Did a google search on your name. Pretty colorful. How do you pronounce that. I know a few people it could apply to.
1 definition by Gee Dubya. Top Definition. fuckwit. A real elmore, maroon, jackweed or botard. Clueless fucktard. Dimwit doesn't do you justice. You are a fuckwit


Just my initials!!
 
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