Nice workaround Jim! Good job.,
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Jim's 1980 SG Miss September
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
Nice work Jim!
Gawd - I feel so inadequate.
Gawd - I feel so inadequate.
Looking good Jim, dang you’re getting close to firing that thing up. 
Yeah.... still waiting on some carb parts..... but close enough I can almost smell the fumes.dang you’re getting close to firing that thing up.
Jim nice work around on the brushes!
Looking at yours got me to wondering if an option at some point if even after market ones are not readily available might be possible to find some generic brushes sau for a electric drill and modify them to fit. Find some that had the lead coming out the right place and then shape them to fit the holder then solder the lead to the original bracket.
Looking on Ebay they might be several to choose from:
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/dc-motor-brushes
Looking at yours got me to wondering if an option at some point if even after market ones are not readily available might be possible to find some generic brushes sau for a electric drill and modify them to fit. Find some that had the lead coming out the right place and then shape them to fit the holder then solder the lead to the original bracket.
Looking on Ebay they might be several to choose from:
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/dc-motor-brushes
Some economical possibilities there, kshansen. You'll want a finished size of 5mm x 4.5mm x 15mm long. A disc sander project...
Odds and Ends...
Got a little done today. Routed and hooked up the harness from the alternator/TCI. Neutral wire was all boogered up, so I robbed it from an old broke stator harness and soldered it to the existing harness. Torqued and safetyed the drive sprocket. Routed the Motion Pro clutch cable after lubing it with @gggGary (s) magic brew.
I now have a functional neutral light.......
.... and the alternator with the rewound rotor now passes the slap test.....
Cleaned up the XS400 clutch actuator I got from Ebay. Shaved about 1mm from the outer housing to get a good angle for pulling. That put it too close to the inner actuator for the original screws. From my experience with the starter tie bolts, I learned that a 10/32 screw will work just fine in an M5 hole. So I got into the aircraft stock and found some low profile NAS-10/32 screws... problem solved.
Last thing..... here's the bin I been puttin' all the old hardware in that's been replaced with new....
Got a little done today. Routed and hooked up the harness from the alternator/TCI. Neutral wire was all boogered up, so I robbed it from an old broke stator harness and soldered it to the existing harness. Torqued and safetyed the drive sprocket. Routed the Motion Pro clutch cable after lubing it with @gggGary (s) magic brew.
I now have a functional neutral light.......
.... and the alternator with the rewound rotor now passes the slap test.....
Cleaned up the XS400 clutch actuator I got from Ebay. Shaved about 1mm from the outer housing to get a good angle for pulling. That put it too close to the inner actuator for the original screws. From my experience with the starter tie bolts, I learned that a 10/32 screw will work just fine in an M5 hole. So I got into the aircraft stock and found some low profile NAS-10/32 screws... problem solved.
Last thing..... here's the bin I been puttin' all the old hardware in that's been replaced with new....
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Did you dress off the flashing under the worm body?
Post #11.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/heavy-clutch-pull.51799/#post-545143
Post #11.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/heavy-clutch-pull.51799/#post-545143
Hmmm.... maybe Yamaha started doin' that on later years. Mine was smooth as a babies bottom.
Thinking of your now sparkling alternator brush assembly: When I clean small steel components that may rust again I usually coat them with a clear lacquer/varnish/epoxy diluted with a bit of acetone. I prefer diluted epoxy because it cures quickly. When diluting epoxy with solvents for other projects there may be a drop in certain properties e.g. water resistance in marine applications.
Note: Denatured alcohol and lacquer thinners are also used to dilute epoxy.
Note: Denatured alcohol and lacquer thinners are also used to dilute epoxy.
A Way To Save The Clutch Pushrod Seal?
Engineers do amaze me at times..... take the XS clutch pushrod for instance. Here's what we're gonna do.... we're gonna find the absolute nastiest place on the motor... um let's see.... yeah, the the drive sprocket and chain cavity. That's it!!! It don't get much nastier than that. Water, dirt, grease... grime.... perfect! That's where we're gonna put the clutch pushrod... right where the chain can sling sh&t all over it. Right where an itty bitty garlock seal has to handle rotational and linear motion AND keep the clean engine oil separated from the grimy outside world. And here's the best part... we could cast a partition into the cases, just like the one separating the the alternator cavity.... but nah... we ain't doin' that....
What the f&ck were they thinkin'? (/rant)
So, here's what I'm gonna do. First, measure from the face of the seal to the case edge....
Then measure how far the actuator sticks out the side cover......
Do the math and we have 1.85" of exposed pushrod. Vinyl does a fair job of protecting from the elements.....
Cut the vinyl to to 1.85". Pay no attention to the caliper reading, it moved just as I took the shot.
Add a washer to each end.... I debated for a fair amount of time before deciding to use the washers. Finally went with them mainly 'cause I wanted to spread the load out across the pushrod seal.
Packed the tube with moly grease and installed....
All back together.....
I didn't have any means of measuring pull, but I couldn't feel any discernible difference with or without the vinyl. I actually have a 1 finger pull.
I guess time will tell if this is a worthwhile mod or not.....
Engineers do amaze me at times..... take the XS clutch pushrod for instance. Here's what we're gonna do.... we're gonna find the absolute nastiest place on the motor... um let's see.... yeah, the the drive sprocket and chain cavity. That's it!!! It don't get much nastier than that. Water, dirt, grease... grime.... perfect! That's where we're gonna put the clutch pushrod... right where the chain can sling sh&t all over it. Right where an itty bitty garlock seal has to handle rotational and linear motion AND keep the clean engine oil separated from the grimy outside world. And here's the best part... we could cast a partition into the cases, just like the one separating the the alternator cavity.... but nah... we ain't doin' that....
What the f&ck were they thinkin'? (/rant)
So, here's what I'm gonna do. First, measure from the face of the seal to the case edge....
Then measure how far the actuator sticks out the side cover......
Do the math and we have 1.85" of exposed pushrod. Vinyl does a fair job of protecting from the elements.....
Cut the vinyl to to 1.85". Pay no attention to the caliper reading, it moved just as I took the shot.
Add a washer to each end.... I debated for a fair amount of time before deciding to use the washers. Finally went with them mainly 'cause I wanted to spread the load out across the pushrod seal.
Packed the tube with moly grease and installed....
All back together.....
I didn't have any means of measuring pull, but I couldn't feel any discernible difference with or without the vinyl. I actually have a 1 finger pull.
I guess time will tell if this is a worthwhile mod or not.....
I like it! Simplicity itself, nothing but good can come from keeping that push rod clean. When I took my cover off , all you could see was the tip of the rod that had been inside the clutch worm.
Jim, that is one of the cleverest mod's I've seen here. Man, what a great idea. I gotta do that.......3x's!
So is that vinyl sleeve and washers a snug fit between the worm and pushrod seal, and the vinyl compresses slightly when you pull the clutch lever and the worm rotates in towards the motor? If so, you should probably keep an eye on the pushrod seal and make sure it doesn't get pushed in more.
Yeah, good point. The tensions pretty light. Only the thickness of the washers and I glued the seal in when I put the motor together, so I'm not concerned. But if anyone else does this and they're not sure the seal will hold up, you might want to consider a fender washer on the inside so the load is transferred to the case and not the seal.
I like this mod Jim and was going suggest a big fender washer to ensure that seal isn’t pushed in.
Ideally, a small accordion-type bellows (like a tiny fork gaiter) would also be good and it wouldn’t transfer any measurable load at all. I am not sure where such an item could be sourced, but I’ve seen them on car brake and clutch master and slave cylinders.
....or, how about some sort of simple fixed deflector plate that simply shields the pushrod from the schmutz thrown by the front sprocket and drive chain. It would not prevent everything from hitting the pushrod, but I’ll bet it would help. It could be attached to the fixed plate that supports the shifter shaft in your top photo above (although that would make it fairly long and possibly floppy).
Engineers.....stupid buggers....
You mean like this Pete.....
I gotta whole box of these in my airplane stock. Problem is I couldn't stop it from shifting and hitting the chain.... which would eventually saw through it. If we could source one about 1/8" to 1/4" smaller....
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