Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

Hey Jim. The bike looks great!:thumbsup: I did notice the brake lever shaft has no grease zerk in it?? Two of my builds have them, two don`t. I wonder what the difference is?? KC Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Show is Sat May 18th at Donnell`s Honda. See you there I hope.
 
I did notice the brake lever shaft has no grease zerk in it??
Yeah... got ahead of myself. Gonna pull it back off and add the zerk. I don't believe any came from the factory drilled for the zerk.
 
Yeah... got ahead of myself. Gonna pull it back off and add the zerk. I don't believe any came from the factory drilled for the zerk.

Some do I think. Leastwise I have several with a drilled pivot shaft, enough that I don't think it's guys doing it, maybe drum vs disk and Yamaha parts bin engineering?
dunno "mis-match red" swing arm doesn't seem like you. :cool:
Red fenders to match the tins. :heart::bike::heart:
 
Tool for changing the pilots without removing the carbs. Why? 'Cause I'm lazy that way.... :rolleyes:

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Made from an old Popular Mechanics scribe.
Based on what I've read since I built the carbs... and the fact that I'm gonna open the commandos up a bit, I went up to 45's on the pilots and 137.5 on the mains.
 
OK, I’m just a mere mechanical engineer. Why would one want a field cut-out to the alternator rotor.

...the only reason I can imagine doing that is if I was going on an evening ride with a hot chick and I was hoping for a little “impromptu breakdown” somewhere secluded....etc.etc.etc.....
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....but then, one would be faced with the difficulty of getting the bike started again....

Hmmmm...., I am probably over-thinking this.
 
Hmmmm...., I am probably over-thinking this.
Reduce energy required for engine cranking. Save 4 or 5 amps that the rotor draws and it also should make engine easier to turn.
Jim
It would be interesting to know the difference in amp draw and cranking speed between the rotor being energized and not being energized.
 
Two reasons Pete. First, the rotor draws about 2.5 amps. Considerin' the rather small size of our batteries, that's a current drain that ain't helpful. That current is used to create a pretty powerful magnetic field. The slightly over half a horse starter has to fight that magnetic field as it spins the rotor. Get rid of the field and that's more power freed up for starting. At least that's the theory. Soon as I get a point and shoot tach, I'll try and quantify this mod to see if it's really worth it.

Second reason... bike fires but don't start. That's enough to trip the light relay and turn on the lights. Unless you cycle the iggy switch, there's another couple amps being drained when we need 'em most. At the least, this mod will fix that problem.
 
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