Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

[robinc]

close to an hour with 400 wetordry and wd40..

Ouch. Ah well turned out great Jim.

Nice work as always man.

Ya that looks like a Mike's sump screen. Round magnet as opposed to retangular and different screen material than OEM.

Thanks for the reminder on the cam chain. On the to do list.

 

[Jim]

Thanks Robin.
Any gripes about Mikes screen that you know of?

 

[mrtwowheel]

Don't know what sump filter you have, but on the subject of sump filters...........The guy at 650Central admitted to me, on the phone, that he gets his sump filters from MikesXS. This is something that I always wondered about, if they were from different sources.

Scott

 

[robinc]

I ran one last year 2400 miles, still looks fine but I think I have read that they will blow out quicker than OEM.

I stand to be corrected and others with more experience than me can hopefully give you a better answer.

I know many here do a JBWeld patch on an original and they seem to hold up well. Of course, not an option for you.

 

[Mailman]

Nice work Jim. Sump plate looks like NOS! I’ve never heard of stoddard cleaner, I’ll have to look into that.
That’s a smart idea regarding the chain, makes perfect sense.

You’re closing in on the end of this project. You’d better start shopping for the next one! Haha!
We need to keep you lined up with projects!

 

[5twins]

The perforated sheet metal behind the screening is the other "tell" indicating the filter element is aftermarket.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

This post #217 covers the screen mesh comparison, OEM vs aftermarket.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-filter.72/page-11#post-422384

 

[Jim]

This post #217 covers the screen mesh comparison, OEM vs aftermarket.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-filter.72/page-11#post-422384

Thanks Steve. I can live with 350 microns. My beloved Lycoming sumps didn't even filter down that small.

 

[Jim]

You’re closing in on the end of this project. You’d better start shopping for the next one! Haha!
We need to keep you lined up with projects!

Thanks Bob. The "Speed Twin" frame is already resting in my frame jig.

 

[MaxPete]

Jim - can you show us a Stoddart cleaner?

P

 

[Jim]

Stoddard cleaner.... stoddard solvent..... basically it's mineral spirits.

 

[gggGary]

Thanks Steve. I can live with 350 microns. My beloved Lycoming sumps didn't even filter down that small.

Yes But IIRC, Lycoming would double the recommended oil change intervals if you change from a screen to a filter? But this really is the "prefilter".
My opinion; the side filter (after the pump) should be the upgrade candidate.
I have a perfect run of over 30 stock filters that were torn when I removed them. Found a torn Mikes filter when i removed it also. I have removed filters that I have repaired that weren't torn. I normally put in JB weld repaired stock filters.
Jim I think I know how you did your sump plate sanding but you might want to detail the correct method for the lads. The wrong technique could easily make the seal worse.
I like smoothing the chain, how did you deal with abrasive clean up?

 

[MaxPete]

 

[Jim]

But this really is the "prefilter".

Yeah. and that's what I was referring to on the Lyc's. It unscrews from the back of the sump....

You still have the paper filter on the output of the pump.

My opinion; the side filter (after the pump) should be the upgrade candidate.

Agreed. Funny... the XS I had back in the 70's when I lived in Fla. never tore a sump screen.... and I put over 50K on that bike. I tend to agree with XSLeo
(2M's link) that high rev's on a cold engine is what tears em'.

Jim I think I know how you did your sump plate sanding but you might want to detail the correct method for the lads. The wrong technique could easily make the seal worse.

Yeah... was gonna include that... then my fingers got lazy...
You need a hard flat surface. I use the deck on my table saw. It's cast iron... that's the kind of hard and flat you need. Tape the long edges of the 400 to the table, spray liberally with WD40 and start sanding it down with back and forth strokes. Keep well lubricated and every 30 sec. to a min, rotate the piece 45-60deg. until you get an even finish. As Gary sez... it's a learned skill that, if not done correctly will produce nothing but shiny boat anchors.

I like smoothing the chain, how did you deal with abrasive clean up?

I scrubbed it in the stoddard tank and blew dry with a blow gun.

 

[Meddy]

Good tip on the cam chain Jim, pity mines already back together.

 

[kshansen]

Stoddard cleaner.... stoddard solvent..... basically it's mineral spirits.

And if you want to read more about it:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit

 

[yamageddon]

That is indeed a great tip to smoothen that chain. Now it's no longer a chainsaw

 

[weekendrider]

Jim you look to be wrapping this up and riding by 6-15-18. You ought to join/ride with the 650 Society at their Mountian View, AR rally.
Just a days ride away from you. Or I'm half way if you need to make it a two day jaunt.

 

[Jim]

Or I'm half way if you need to make it a two day jaunt.

Thanks for the offer!!
Gary told me about that run a few weeks ago and yeah.... I'm gonna try and make it.

 

[Jim]

Engine Buildup Stand
With a fast dwindling build budget, I decided to build a stand instead of buying one. I have the steel and tools to build it. Spare money to buy one.... not so much.
First we need a cardboard template...

Transfer that to some 1/8" plywood......

and fire up the plasma torch...

Tacked the two halves together....

Cleaned up the edges and drilled some holes.... Ground em back apart and painted....

Cut 3 tubes from some 4130 scrap, went to Home Depot and bought three 3/8" bolts and nuts, and put it all together....

If I could only remember where I put my engine mount bolts.... I'd be in business.
Two and a half hrs. (including the trip to Home Depot) and $5.76 for the hardware sure beats fifty odd bucks to Mikes for a stand...
I loves me a plasma torch