Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

The final appearance isn’t quite right if you intend an authentic restoration, but it’s hard to beat powder coating for durability Paul.

Pete
 
Thank you Max. My interest here is what can be used at home. In the mid 80s a friend of mine repainted his Laverda frame and used a 2 pack/2K epoxy system. I once had access to powder coating equipment and reconditioned my fridge handles. 18 years later the handles are still good but I have noticed corrosion wriggling around under some areas. What will give good corrosion resistance and metal adhesion. Is it a 2 pack zinc rich epoxy primer followed by a two pack epoxy top coat for scratch/chip resistance? I realize coating technology has stepped forward in the past 30 years and my knowledge of what is out there is lacking. Just interested in what Jim is planning now he has the jig.
 
what paint systems will you use for adhesion to metal and chip/scratch resistance?
I'm using an epoxy primer and Centari topcoat. I talked about them here.
You wont be able to get the primer I'm using, but about any brand name 2 part epoxy primer will work for durability.
 
Now that I remember more of that discussion, it *did* degrade into a version of "War of the Worlds".
I'm sure it did.... ;)
I've always taken it all with a grain of salt, whatever the manual or manufacturer called it was fine with me.... as long as it did it's job. For all practical purposes, they're interchangeable.
 
The final appearance isn’t quite right if you intend an authentic restoration, but it’s hard to beat powder coating for durability Paul.

Pete

Pete, plastic filler on the frame, won't take powder coating or 400* cooking for 20 minutes. Not a damn thing wrong with filler and good paint.:) I really don't see the need for primer when using enamel or 2X on a frame.

I'm curious about the etching primers too,
 
I'm curious about the etching primers too,
I try to stay away from etch primers. Because of the acid in them, climate control is critical... They require a higher than normal humidity to break down the acid before the paint dries. If it's too hot, it dries with some of the acid still in the paint. If the humidity is too low, it dries with some of the acid still in the paint. Either way, it won't last very long. Unless you have a climate controlled booth, I wouldn't recommend them.
 
Was making the mount plates for the frame jig...er...fixture....er...thingy and I thought I'd share a little trick I learned as a wee lad. You older guys like me probably already knew this, but I thought I'd share it with all you young-uns.
Ever see anybody struggle trying to clamp two pieces of metal together so that the holes line up when they're drilled? Well, don't do that. Do it this way.

Cut out the plates...
IMG_20171125_181025.jpg


Then tack welded the corners together. Cleaned the plates up, drilled my holes...

IMG_20171125_205939.jpg


Then ground the welds off the corners...

IMG_20171125_211954.jpg


And there ya be... two perfectly matched plates for bolting a frame into.
 
Thanks Gary;) I used to teach a class on TSO's. Didn't connect that to a how to tip.
 
After goin back and forth for about a week, I decided to weld the plates to the frame jigfixturethingy. They attach to the lower rear eng mount and that's the only hard mount Yamaha put on the frame... all other eng mounts are bolt on and therefor variable. The lower rear is set in stone and will work for any XS frame, so why not weld it in place...
EDIT: The bottom center is a hard mount also. The plates will also pick that one up.

Cut some 3/8" spacers to hold plates in alignment with each other and clamped in place...
IMG_20171126_190639.jpg


Adjusted the feet till' the front (left in pic) was vertical (90.0 deg) and adjusted plates till level said 0.0 deg....

IMG_20171126_190619.jpg


and welded the plates on.
MVIMG_20171126_192208.jpg



MVIMG_20171126_192902.jpg


Set the frame on it and it sits exactly like I wanted it to.
MVIMG_20171126_195706.jpg



MVIMG_20171126_195714.jpg



I need to make a temporary mount to stabilize it fore and aft and I'm ready to get back to paint prep.
 
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