Kent Money's First Build - "Beginner's Luck"

Here is one way to look at it

Step 1: Finding True TDC
The tool that I made is two parts: a spark plug adaptor that I found at the auto store ($4) and some random bolt I had lying around. The adaptor is threaded the same size as the spark plug, so you just screw it in to the engine. I tapped a hole that was in one end of the adaptor and just screwed the bolt all the way in. You just want to make sure that this bolt protrudes well into the top of the cylinders, so that if you were to rotate the crank the piston would hit it and stop on its way up to TDC.

This is how you use it. You must have a degree wheel on the crankshaft and a pointer made out of a coat hanger set up in a way as to help you read the degree wheel. (see the picture) What you want to do is rotate the crank so that the piston is located somewhere B(efore)TDC. You can approximate this by peeping in through the spark plug hole with a flash light; you will see the piston begin to approach TDC as you rotate the crank. At this point stop rotating the crankshaft and screw in the tool you made. Now slowly continue rotating the crankshaft CCW (towards TDC) until it bumps on the end of the bolt protruding into the cylinder. Be careful not to gouge your piston. Make sure the piston is resting against the bolt and set the degree wheel to 0 degrees. Now you unscrew the tool you made and rotate the crank to a point somewhere A(fter)TDC. Again you will screw in the tool and rotate the crank CW until the piston bumps on the bolt. You must read the degree wheel as the piston rests against the bolt. Take this number and half it. The resulting number is the location of True TDC on the degree wheel. You must ensure that the degree wheel does not spin independent of the crankshaft while you perform all these procedures, or you will need to start over.

Step 2: Valve Timing
The purpose of the dial indicators is to let you know when the valves begin to open, and to measure the amount of valve lift. The idea is that you want your cam and its lobes to be spinning in a way that all opening and closing of the valves occurs at the optimal time within the 4-stroke phases. So you must set your dial indicators perpendicular to the surface of the valve-spring retainers. What you do is set the degree wheel so that 0 degrees is at TDC of the crank. Rotate the crank 1.5 full revolutions going CCW. This is to make sure there is no slack in your cam chain. As you come around to 1.5 revolutions start to carefully monitor the dial indicator to see when the valve starts to open. This should occur at 36 degrees BTDC (this spec is true for my 1981 engine, at least).

There is another way involving the lobe centers, see my other thread for details.

Thank you very much for the info.
Now to just try and understand it all. :yikes:
 
you can do it man. It definitely takes time to absorb it all. I recommend reading the 2 or 3 threads that focus on this subject and you'll emerge with a pretty good idea of what to do. This was the first engine I have ever worked on and now I feel pretty confident working my way around the xs650 motor! haha
 
Last edited:
Finished wire brushing all the rust off my tank to prep it for primer. I also found a spot I liked for the tach, but I plan to do a better bracket in the future. Lastly, I installed this cool cruise control switch into my throttle housing. its pretty sweet.

I think I may be doing some preliminary rides by the end of this weekend!

and I just ordered the 8-cell Ballistic battery !!!! :bike:

photo-49.jpg

photo-50.jpg
 
KentMoney and others. As the valve stems and valve adjuster get worn the valve stem pits and the ball on the adjuster gets flat spots. This can prevent getting an accurate valve adjustment, the feeler gauge can't flex enought to get down into the pits.
Part of the method you describe can be used to set valves. Turn the engine to TDC, mount your dial indicator as described , have the point of the dial indicator on the rocker arm next to the adjuster and lift the rocker arm up and down, this movement is the gap, the indicator measures the movement, adjust the adjuster so the movement matches the reccomended clearance.
This way, even with severe pitting you still get accurate gaps.
Leo
 
thanks! it's actually pullin' really well considering that I haven't touched the carbs. Rode it around town today and I'm lovin it. I still need to do lots of work on the tail section though. I also want to design some sort of fairing for the triple-tree/headlight area.

plan to do a retorque sometime tomorrow. I do have concerns if the oil is circulating well; I didnt prime the oil-feed tube so I hope it's pumping well.

 
Thanks man. I am near 101 and Capital Expressway, not sure if you're familiar with it. Sorta South San Jose-ish.

I'd be happy to ride out to campbell, too; I'm always trying to find an excuse to ride and put miles on this thing :bike:


So updates:

Here is how the bike stands now. Like I said, there's work to do on the tail section, but I've mounted the brake light temporarily so I can ride around.

IMG_1361.jpg

IMG_1360.jpg


I spent days trying to paint the bars and tank properly only to have it still look like shit. Sanding between coats, etc etc. On the bars the clear coat I used was horrible, totally changed the look of the black. I've basically decided that I will probably just find someone to powdercoat my stuff once I get the design finalized.

Two of the other main things I need to do are make my seat and license plate bracket; right now it's just zip tied on!!!
 
your video looks like the McLaughlin Rd area? I'm also a local but I just recently started my XS650 bobber build! :p
 
hey travis! im glad you asked! I had been putting off the seat and tail section for quite sometime but I recently was able to make some progress on hashing out the rear fender. I've been doing more carb work than anything else lately. But, it may end up all being for not because I want to get a new exhaust going too. I'm thinking a 2-1 with the muffler on the right side hiding the drum brake control linkages. Does anyone have experience running a MX muffler on a chopper? I want a big, cool lookin muffler.

here is my bike when I took a quick trip to the scrap yard to get some aluminum.
1yvuq.jpg


here is the second pic with one of the fender template positioned where they are going to go. I am a bit worried about clearance because I will be placing the light at the tip of the fender. I guess we'll just have to see. I have already handcut the side plates of the fender, just need to get it welded up by a buddy and do some final shaping.
V6Bew.jpg




as soon as I get the fender welded together and in place I will begin on the seat. It's almost there! Will keep updating
 
Hey Kent sorry we never got to meet up and chat about the bike. I broke my leg and wrecked my Buell right after christmas. I have to take about 3 months off my job in Campbell. When Im back lets get together for sure.
 
dude, that's horrible news. I was about to message you again to get a meet-up going but I guess that will have to be put on hold. I wish you a swift recovery, let me know when you're back on your feet (and wheels)!
 
It was on Monterey Blvd just up the hill from the Glen Park BART station. If you look at the 5th or 6th tree on the left it will have a bunch of bark scraped off it from my bike.
 
damn man, I'll keep my eye out. Glad you're alright.


I snapped a few quick pictures to show people where I ended up mounting the tach, my coils, and the routing for the high tension spark cables. Ignore the cable dangling from the tach, it's the auxiliary light that I plan to wire in later. I think the coils should breath just fine in this location. No problems so far, except for my first shakedown where one of the coils came loose and fell off! its loc-tited now and i've had no problem since.

9m86s.jpg

1WjJg.jpg

jPkzf.jpg
 
Back
Top