Kent Money's First Build - "Beginner's Luck"

[KentMoney]

I'm using a key switch I got from Kragen's for like $8. All the ones I found made especially for motorcycles were hella expensive, so I went with this. However, the build is sub-par and I am im the market for a new one. The face comes loose on it and its just a little janky, but its doing the job so far.

it technically a 4 prong switch. There is the off position when its vertical, if I turn the key to the left it turns on all the lights without the ignition (auxillary), one turn to the right is lights and ignition, and if you twist it further to the right it is a spring loaded (momentary, like a car) to turn the e-starter. no separate starter button, just the momentary key turn to turn the e-starter.

 

[atomic22]

Cool
Thanks for the info. I had a tractor switch, but the key got jiggles loose from all the vibration, losing contact and killing the bike. I am hoping to find something better as well.

 

[KentMoney]

yah, you may just have to bite the bullet and get a nice one. check ebay, there are quite a few on there.

 

[XSLeo]

I've been using one like this from the local tractor supply store. $16 or there abouts. Been a couple years and it works great, key still tight never falls out or jiggles off.
One pic is of where I had it mounted, I moved it from here around to the other sideof the bike.
The only key on that ring is the bike key. If you have more than that, then the switch isn't the problem, the extra weight of the extra keys is the problem.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

does that switch have the momentary e-start option?

 

[XSLeo]

No, it's just an on/off switch.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

ah.


so today I did a bit of tuning and have come to discover that my ignition timing has been quite advanced for the past 1200 miles (many on freeway) i've put on my moto. I finally got around to shooting my rotor with a timing gun and saw that the rotor mark was about 1/4 to 1/2 and inch to the right of the firing bracket marks.

So for anyone tuning in their PAMCO, counter clockwise rotation of the backplate will retard your ignition timing, and clockwise advances it. I adjusted it and now the rotor mark is hitting the center of the bracket marks. I checked the advance unit's operation and the rotor mark moves out roughly an inch at 3000rpm (I don't have the advanced point marked yet). I tried to see if I could get an in between distance and I could at times but it was jumpy. is this normal?

I checked the pistons with a flashlight to see any signs of holing and saw some powdery deposits on the right cylinder, hopefully it's not metal. The left cylinder had black carbon splotched on the top of the piston. anything else to look for?

 

[XSLeo]

Kent, Your bike is an 81? Stock stator?
If so where the round alternator cover goes on the left side cover you will see a notch at the bottom of the opening.
Full advance is at the left edge of this notch. As in this pic.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

Yes, it's an 81 but I am running a PMA set up so I had to remark the various timing locations.

 

[XSLeo]

I don't have a pic but if you use the right edge of the notch, as TDC, then measure .5 inches to the left along the flat across the opening, make a mark, this is idle timing. Continue along this flat edge all the way left and where it meets the curved edge is full advance.
I saw a pic of this but I didn't snag a copy.
Leo

 

[XSLeo]

I found the pic but can't snag it. Somewhere along I snagged Mr Riggs PMA instructions. The pic is in there.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

yes, I know what your talking about and I have that Mr. Riggs pdf.

but do you think I may have caused any problems by running it advanced for a while?

 

[XSLeo]

As long as you have run 93 octane gas and stayed away from WOT most of the time I doubt you hurt anything. If not you would have found the damage. Holed pistons are very evident.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

:X

have been using 87 unleaded, and WOT happened more than once while carb tuning.

damnit. but like you said, I checked compression and visually inspected the pistons best I could and it seems operational.


in addition, I picked up a kawazaki KX250 dirtbike muffler that I plan on putting on at the end of a custom 2-1 system. any foreseeable problems with this?

 

[XSLeo]

That muffler should work, might need to retune the carbs. Change in exhaust flow.
The low octane gas and to advanced timing can lead to detonation, this leads to holed pistons, most often during a high speed run.
If your bikes running fine I doubt you holed a piston. That's a very noticable change in the way the bike runs.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

alright, thanks for the guidance leo. is it possible that even if there is no piston damage, that this could be stressing the connection rods, valves, or other components?

 

[Explorer352]

Nice build!
What kind of front rotor is that/where'd you get it? And I can't tell, but it looks like you're using the stock caliper?

 

[XSLeo]

The piston damage will show up long before other parts are damaged.
Leo

 

[KentMoney]

gotcha leo.


explorer, the rotor is from Mikes XS, its this one. I don't remember it being that much though!

I am using the original caliper but I upgraded the pads as well.

 

[KentMoney]

OK, sorry about the lagging in this thread. I've been riding the bike a lot, mostly been focused on performance and tuning instead of fabbing. I am happy to say, however, that I just picked up a Henrob 2000 set up and should hopefully be oxyfuel welding soon!

Once the fender is complete I will finish the seat. After that, I will just need to rebuild my forks, re-do exhaust, paint everything, and do a final rewire. I also got an awesome new headlight that I will be sticking on there soon. In the end it seems like this thing is more vintage streetfighter/chopper than anything else. Looks are important, but I've really been trying to maintain good handling characteristics so forkbrace, cartridge emulators, progressive springs, etc have been utilized.

Here are some pics in the mean time