Large Spine Frame XS650 / Egli / Rau / Cafe Racer

[rehar]

No work on the exhaust yet. Here is kind of what it will look like though.


I am thinking of putting a switch on the battery to completely disconnect it. Ordered one of these. This is huge.
Anyone know of smaller pieces to do this?

 

[halfmile]

Not to jump the gun or anything but I`ll go ahead and nominate this bike for the 2020 calendar. This is "Top of the Line Stuff".

 

[Mailman]

Rehar,
That bike is just insanely cool. That looks like something Richard Pollock would produce!

 

[Mailman]

Not to jump the gun or anything but I`ll go ahead and nominate this bike for the 2020 calendar. This is "Top of the Line Stuff".

Haha, you were reading my mind!

 

[GLJ]

Big question is how does it ride run and handle.For a home brew it looks great. I mean that in a good way. I think the exhaust just needs some type of a can on the 2 into 1. Great bike.

 

[MrBultaco]

I will second 1/2 miles nom...
Just a gorgeous bike. More than well done Rehar!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yessir, that's calendar material.

Google "RV battery disconnect switch"...

https://www.ratsport.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=23702036

 

[Signal]

Rehar I had a fire in my workshop due to the type of switch you ordered and poor installation.
The terminals are huge and if put in the positive line you get a large live terminal just begging to be shorted to ground. As a bonus with the switch on you get twice as much exposed live metal.
If you do use a switch install it in the negative line as shown in 2M's post above.

 

[rehar]

Thanks for the compliments. I like the Calendar idea!

Regarding the battery disconnect (Negative side):

I like that Ratsport/British switch. Fairly small and compact.

The battery cable, 8AWG, Amperage rating at:
40Amp @ 60C°
50Amp @ 75C°
55Amp @ 90C°

What about a 50Amp Toggle switch?

Or a smaller switch activating a higher amperage relay switch?
Hmmm, then I could hid the relay and place the switch anywhere.

http://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/...MIyeignrHD4AIVOyCtBh1fIAzHEAQYBCABEgI0gfD_BwE

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Try a Google search on "aircraft contactor"...

 

[rehar]

Great tip! Thank you. That lead me to more items like: Continuous Duty Solenoids...

 

[rehar]

Decided to go simple. 300A power switch (Cllena Battery Isolator). Smallest one google could find.


Made a bracket, plugged it in on the negative side. Somewhat discrete location.
Seems to work well.

 

[Mailman]

Your craftsmanship is really just extraordinary! The fittings and hardware you choose all contribute to make your bike look like a very high end build.

 

[rehar]

Thanks. Hopefully you'll get a laugh out of this. I wanted some dielectric material on the back side of the bracket. Couldn't find any appropriately thin plastic in the garage. Made my way into the kitchen found some sacrificial Tupperware (don't tell my wife). Scissors and a "paper hole punch" worked perfectly to make the mounting holes. Paper hole punch makes quick work on cardboard mockups, thin plastic, 1/4" ~ 6mm holes.

 

[rehar]

Slow to no progress in the last few weeks. At least two weeks out yet before I can finish the exhaust.
I broke down and now I have two Lossa Megaphone exhausts, an 18" and a 12". I originally bought the 18" (Quieter Version of their 18"). This was on the bike when I originally fired it up. I gotta say - I really really like the sound. However, the 18" is long enough that I probably need a hanger from the seat subframe. I couldn't get over it - so Finally broke down and ordered the 12".

I fired it up today and gotta say - It still sounded great. Lighter weight and better integration with the full bike - or at least, what I wanted originally wanted (Something like a short stubby Ducati Pantah 750 TT exhaust).

Comparing the two exhausts, the 18" (quieter version) sounded like a proper Parallel twin - STREET BIKE. Really nice sound.
The 12", still had the nice parallel twin sound, but really sounded more like a racer. Loud, but personal opinion - not radically loud (like some other bikes I've had), not bad. I think this will do. (I am having thoughts of being able to swap back and forth between the two though...)
Here's the pics. 18" Left, 12" Right.


I need to get started on exhaust brackets. You can see the mock up in the 12" picture.
As usual, I like to start with CAD.
Here is the Right Rear Set assy.

As there may be a lot of Vibe, I didn't want to thread straight in to aluminum - so I use SS threaded insert / helicoils.
And I want it to be really stout so 1/4" thick extension, added on to the back side of the foot bracket.

Got a couple of hours in the garage today.

Mock up, with Rubber Grommet for Vibe.

All for now.

 

[Mailman]

Your usual high quality work! You know we want to hear a sound video......don’t you?

 

[rehar]

I'd like to do that (but, might be a long wait). Gotta get it running right though. Way too rich on the left cylinder (plug inspection) - and a bit of gas overflow dripping out of left Carb. Float might be stuck a bit (everything has been sitting around for so long).

 

[rehar]

It's been weeks waiting for some garage time. 6hrs yesterday, and the help of a couple of buds, we got 4 spring sets attached, the remaining tab fabricated and mounted to the megaphone. Small vibration grommet in the mix so it's not rigidly mounted.
Of course, transporting the bike - I blew out a fork seal with my tiedowns - got a little too aggressive tightening and the forks have been sitting around for a few years... Rrrrr

 

[rehar]

Carbs:
Heavy fuel vapor/smoke coming out of the exhaust, won't idle and when parked and fuel line feeds on, gas drops out of the left carb. To the best of my knowledge, these are brand new carbs, been sitting around forever. Maybe some dust or too much jostling around over the years has a float bowl stuck.
Right plug was wet with fuel upon inspection (no proper plug chop yet).

Was planning on taking the bike to a local shop to sort out. They did some other carb tuning for me before and I was truly blown away with how good of a job they did. That said, I think it's his son doing the work and the owner is a cantankerous old guy that is really challenging to talk to without walking away cursing! It's like he hates all of his customers. The owner would not allow me to provide the history of the bike / carbs, basically told me to shut up several times during out conversation and it would take a reasonable $400 for rebuild and dial in the carbs, but he was too busy and might be able to get to me three months from now, for 3-4 hrs of work.

Not where I want to spend my time, but freshly motivated after this conversation with the shop owner - time to work on the carbs.
The engine is a 750cc, cams, digital ign, etc... Richard Pollock's (Mule) engine. So I'm not sure the factory Mikuni carb settings are appropriate (would hate to be too lean and fry something). But - getting it running enough / baseline is good place to start.

Info from the web; Mikuni VM34 carbs tuning - adjustment:
No rebuild kit on hand - so might have to redo some of this with fresh o-ring/gaskets later.

FLOAT BOWL: Check, both carbs in spec
Height from flange should be 24mm (22-24mm) to top surface of float sheetmetal, with no pressure and sitting on the top of the needle.

NEEDLE, NEEDLE CLIP: Was in 3rd position (both carbs), now in second. Apparently 2nd position is factory position for the carbs.

AIRJET: Factory position; Turn it in until it stops, then back out 1 turn.

IDLE SCREW: With air filters removed, screw in the idle all the way out. Screw in until they start to lift the slides - screw in two full turns for a starting point. Tried this, system was just on the edge of idle / die. One more full turn, 3 turns for each carb.

Now it starts right away, idles pretty nice. Once warmed up, no fuel spilling out the exhaust. Not a proper plug chop yet, but after 2 miles - plugs look a bit rich but not wet like before.

Got it up to 3rd gear, one 3/4 throttle burst - runs pretty good.

After sitting several minutes - fuel does drip out the overflow, much improved from before - but still a drop or two. Then after sitting like this, start up of course - more fuel laden smoke.

Only 2 miles on the clock.
Tachometer does not function (stops moving at 900 - 1,000 RPM). Need to revisit that.

Chain was rubbing a bit on the engine case. Especially when I roll off the throttle. It spools up slightly on the top section. Removed more material from the side case. Perfect.

STARTER:
The electric starter needs to attention too. It kicks out of gear about 50% of the time and sometimes stays engaged after the engine starts and button is released. Any starter threads or advice?

 

[rehar]

And some pics from today.