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Large Spine Frame XS650 / Egli / Rau / Cafe Racer

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by rehar, Dec 18, 2017.

  1. mrtwowheel

    mrtwowheel Honda Etched On Brain Top Contributor

    Looking at that brown and orange......how about something in-between, like a burnt orange, almost brown?

    Scott
     
    TwoManyXS1Bs likes this.
  2. Signal

    Signal XS650 Junkie

    You do what you like its your bike.
    I think a red white or the yellow white combination used on the early XS is hard to beat and it would relate the new running gear back to the motor.
    The whole thing is looking pretty sharp by the way, if it handles as good as it looks you will be grinning from ear to ear.
     
  3. TwoManyXS1Bs

    TwoManyXS1Bs BBQ Hunter Top Contributor

    The dark colors make the tank look small, the frame big.
    The bright colors make the tank look big, the frame small.

    Rootbeer?
     
    robinc likes this.
  4. Great thoughts! Orange and Brown = Copper? I have an old school copper below.
    Dark VS Light colors = make an object look small or large, I think you're right.
    Early XS graphics inspired pics are here:

    OS Black.JPG OS Blue.JPG OS Candy Green.JPG OS Copper.JPG OS Dark Grey.JPG OS Maroon.JPG OS OLIVE.JPG OS RED WHITE.JPG OS YELLOW.JPG R6 Red w-stripes.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  5. TwoManyXS1Bs

    TwoManyXS1Bs BBQ Hunter Top Contributor

    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
    robinc likes this.
  6. I like your idea of a voting thread. Is that possible?

    I like the raw steel tank.
     
  7. TwoManyXS1Bs

    TwoManyXS1Bs BBQ Hunter Top Contributor

  8. Ratranger

    Ratranger XS650 Addict

    I'm partial to the burnt orange color. But I went a slightly different route and did burnt orange on the frame, with gray tins. I'm really happy with how it looks, so maybe try a color on the frame and a different color on the tins. With photo editing you can go crazy without going broke.
     
  9. Back to the tank.
    WP_20180709_18_55_05_Pro.jpg
    WP_20180713_12_42_29_Pro.jpg
    Made the petcock weld plates.
    WP_20180713_18_55_34_Pro.jpg
    Why three?
    One issue that has surfaced, when the tank runs low, there will be three distinctive sections for "reserve fuel". This was not intended. Yes, the frame got in the way. Doh! Lesson learned.
    gastank Reserve pinch point.jpg
    Some thoughts (trying to keep everything "gravity fed"):
    gastank interconnect.jpg
    • One solution, the simplest - forget the fuel in the rear. However, maybe I'm over thinking this, but the left right fuel capacity could slosh around enough to have different fuel levels. I'm concerned about one cylinder going too lean and taking damage, or reduced reliability.
    • Not certain this would work, but an equalizer tube between the carbs, might prevent this. The idea - if one petcock runs dry, fuel from the other would keep constant fuel to both carbs. Will this work?
    • Third petcock - picks up the fuel in the remaining section.
    • Again, not certain - but I'm thinking I would keep this off until the forward portion of the tank runs dry, then close those (necessary?) and open the rear section for "reserve"...
    If this works, it would be safest and capture the full capacity of the tank. A bit complex maybe...
     
    TwoManyXS1Bs likes this.
  10. Signal

    Signal XS650 Junkie

    RD 400's run a flexible fuel line balance tube from one side of the tank to the other near the front. What about running one fuel tap and balance tubes between each side and one to the rear.
    The balance tubes are a pain when you have to remove the tank but you can get some quick connectors with internal shut off to avoid spilling fuel.
    Simple is always better but sometimes you need a couple of attempts to get to a simple solution.
    You are doing a great job, keep boxing on.
     
  11. Today's progress on the tank. Progress was made and some lost.
    Off to a good start, petcock #3 (Rear) placed onto the flat piece, tac welded into position, check fit on the bike and pivoting the tank in to position. Perfect.
    0 10 WP_20180715_09_37_23_Pro.jpg 0 15 WP_20180715_12_42_48_Pro.jpg
    After welding it in to position... Looked good at first, a thought came to me, the mounting bolts are not sealed. Fuel will weep through the threads. Doh!
    0 20 doh WP_20180715_16_22_48_Pro.jpg
    Painful, but it had to be done. Grind off the weld pop off the plate.
    0 30 doh WP_20180715_16_40_11_Pro.jpg
    Then, change the threaded bolt holes "BLIND". Like this.
    0 56 yes WP_20180715_17_12_18_Pro.jpg 0 57 yes WP_20180715_17_24_45_Pro.jpg
    Front Mounting points next. Pilot hole, enlarge, insert threaded bungs and weld.
    0 60 WP_20180715_14_11_03_Pro.jpg 0 61 WP_20180715_14_26_39_Pro.jpg
    Snagged this photo from Hughs Hand Built, I am using the same hood stops for the front tank mount. They worked great so far!
    101_7833.JPG

    Prep for mounting petcock flange 1 and 2 (Front pair)
    0 80 WP_20180715_17_59_46_Pro.jpg 0 81 WP_20180715_18_49_01_Pro.jpg
    Done for the day.
    0 90 done for the day WP_20180715_18_49_09_Pro.jpg
     
  12. OK, bought some brand new Mikes XS left right petcocks, 42.5mm pitch. That was the plan.
    WP_20180716_18_13_37_Pro.jpg WP_20180716_18_17_15_Pro.jpg
    The tank uses the cups at the front end as a mounting feature, and has to rotate about these points down into position. However, these brand new petcocks crash with the frame. Playing around with them, they either crash with the frame on the rear valve cover.

    Anybody want to make an offer on some brand new petcocks - reach out to me privately.

    Ordered a set of these petcocks for left right, no reserve. I will still use the other petcock in the rear of the tank, which has reserve, maybe 1/3rd of a gallon, enough to get off the freeway. Made some 1/4 NPT thread bungs and welded them into the tank. They can be seen in the tank pics below.
    Petcock.jpg
    After that, had to spend about an hour and a half cleaning out the tank, removing tiny bits of metal that were introduced in this last step. Very painful, slow work. They wouldn't shake out, wouldn't blow out, wouldn't vacuum out. But, if I used a magnet and shaked the bits until they hit the magnet...
    Shavings WP_20180728_17_14_46_Pro (3).jpg

    Some shots of the finished tank. 10.17lbs. (Still needs sealing and of course new paint.)
    Bottom WP_20180728_17_16_02_Pro.jpg Bottom FRONT WP_20180728_17_16_34_Pro.jpg Cup 1 WP_20180728_17_16_18_Pro.jpg cup 2 WP_20180728_17_16_24_Pro.jpg

    I had to relocate the coil, to make more capacity for fuel. Spent the day today making a new bracket for that.
    Here are some quick start - finish pics.
    Coil Bracket M6 weld nuts WP_20180729_12_38_26_Pro.jpg Coil Bracket WP_20180729_14_59_56_Pro.jpg Coil Bracket position WP_20180729_15_01_07_Pro.jpg Coil New Mount location WP_20180729_15_56_16_Pro.jpg
     
  13. Superjet

    Superjet XS650 Junkie XS650.com Supporter

    As for the color, I like the yellow looking one that is similar to the 1971 golden color.
     
    gggGary likes this.
  14. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Rehar,
    That tank is a work of art and your welds are beautiful! Very impressive, I have really enjoyed watching this bike come together.
     
    gggGary, TwoManyXS1Bs and Jim like this.
  15. Those welds are beautiful for sure and not mine. :)
    My friend Tony is the guy that speaks to metal.
    All the ugly welds are mine. :thumbsup:

    Tony has over 30 hours into bending and welding, with my hours into it, it's approaching the 60hr mark.

    Surprising, I think there are more hours in the tank than the frame!
     
    gggGary, robinc and Jim like this.
  16. TwoManyXS1Bs, I'll take up your suggestion for "voting". Just for fun, let's see how this goes.

    Rules:
    2 Maximum votes per person.

    My thoughts: The wheels in this project are from an R6, black - with factory red pinstripes. They are in great shape and I don't want to repaint them, so the color schemes should tie in that shade of RED somewhere - ie: like a red pinstripe in the tank... Below are the numbered selections for the vote, with a blank white scheme at the end for OTHER. Additionally, if anyone is interested in creating/proposing your own scheme, this can be used as a template.

    1) 1 black red stripe red wheel.JPG 2) 2 black white stripe red pinstripe.jpg
    3) 3 blue red stripe red wheel.JPG 4) 4 blue white stripe red pinstripe.jpg
    5) 5 grey-dark red stripe red wheel.JPG 6) 6 grey-dark white stripe red pinstripe.jpg
    7) 7 olive red stripe red wheel.jpg 8) 8 olive white stripe red pinstripe.jpg
    9) 9 orange white stripe b red pinstripe.jpg
    10) 10 R6 Red orangish stripe red wheel.JPG 11) 11 R6 Red white stripe black pinstripe.jpg
    12) 12 yellow red stripe red wheel.JPG 13) 13 yellow white stripe red pinstripe.jpg
    Other) white.jpg
    Thank You!
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2018
    TwoManyXS1Bs likes this.
  17. Robert Reed

    Robert Reed XS650 Addict

    I voted for #5 and other. I really like the copper color in one of your earlier posts with the vertical stripe.
     
  18. Ok, been a while... Busy at work.

    Paint Voting Results:
    Voting results Paint Colors 092918.jpg
    Thank you for your inputs.

    Started work on the left side cover finally. Cut off a few interference bits with the frame and the chain idler. Fit well, without the clutch worm gear actuator.
    Once that was added, it didn't fit well. Back to CAD to check things out...

    Before / after trimming (CAD), will need to work on this some more... (sorry, no real pics today.)
    left side cover before.JPG left side cover chipping away frame interference .JPG
    Crude representation of the worm gear, in it's "rest" position and fully actuated position:
    clutch worm gear - crude, 2 positions.JPG
    Add Clutch Rod - looks too short. (8mm rod from McMaster will cure that.)
    clutch rod too short.JPG
    Throw in the .75" offset sprocket, crude chain keepout area... Yep, interference.
    .75inch offset sprocketa.JPG crude chain position - keepout.JPG interference - sprocket.JPG interference - chain.JPG interference - both positions.JPG
    Time to consider Hydraulic actuation? Snagged a Ducati Slave Cylinder off GrabCAD, to play with...
    New Clutch Rod, new Slave Cylinder... Looks easy. A little tight... eh...
    hydraulic 1.JPG hydraulic 2.JPG hydraulic 3.JPG hydraulic 4.JPG

    I found a great thread on this site, I think I will follow "Osteoderm's" lead:
    http://www.xs650.com/threads/good-heart-bad-intentions-another-build-thread.13561/page-2

    Lot of good work there, Osteoderm! Very helpful.

    Next stop, ebay.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2018
    Mailman likes this.

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