Leak, Re-Torque, Leaks Worse!

[lidirtrider]

Ahh, the beauty of the XS. Fix one problem, create another.

So, among numerous other things, I had a minor leak from the base of the cylinder. I couldn't tell exactly where it was, but it appeared to coming from roughly under the cam chain adjuster cover. I scoured the board for info, and decided that I should try to re-torque all the cylinder and head bolts. Everything was going swimmingly, until I got to the number 12 bolt. Which I think is stripped. I didn't want to start pulling everything apart, and make things worse, so I moved on. I figure, when I eventually pull the motor, I can Heli-coil it, or worst case get a new head.

I torqued everything according to the sequence, and specs in both the Haynes and Clymer books. I put everything back together, took it for a ride, and parked back in the garage. After about a half hour, I noticed a new pool of oil on the floor. It always had a bit of a drip, maybe the size of a nickel, after a day or 2. Now, it's got a spot about 3 inches in diameter.

I wish I never fucked with it. I know I need to replace the gaskets, but I really didn't want to pull everything apart right now. Can I torque just the cylinder stud nuts a few pounds more, or will that screw up anything else?

 

[5twins]

Leaking head gaskets shouldn't cause a puddle like that. I think you have leaks elsewhere like from the cam chain adjuster cap/cover nut or some of the seals under the left side cover. The large seal that the electric start motor sticks into can be a big leaker too.

 

[blackbetty]

You should check the clutch pushrod seal too for good measure, just to make sure.

 

[angus67]

dont torque it down"just a little more".
Thats when you suddenly feel it give a little more, thenyou get sick to your stomach, cuase now youve got a stripped main head bolt.
check the other leak suspects as others mention, and go from there.
snugging up is not a good idea with aluminum.

 

[lidirtrider]

Leaking head gaskets shouldn't cause a puddle like that. I think you have leaks elsewhere like from the cam chain adjuster cap/cover nut or some of the seals under the left side cover. The large seal that the electric start motor sticks into can be a big leaker too.

You're probably right. I can see just about where the leak comes from, and I just assumed it was the base gasket, it probably is coming from the timing chain adjuster cover. That would be a nice easy fix.

 

[TeeCat]

You're probably right. I can see just about where the leak comes from, and I just assumed it was the base gasket, it probably is coming from the timing chain adjuster cover. That would be a nice easy fix.

I recently had a situation where I thought I head a weeping head gasket, and re-torqued. That needed done anyway, but it didn't fix the problem. What did fix it was to replace the 6-bolt gasket under the timing chain adjuster cover, as well as the (in my case, cork) gasket for the dome nut. I'll bet that's your problem.

TC

 

[Rambo Rob]

I have two 650 Yamaha's with the same problem, head gasket leak, left side.
If I retorque the head bolts.
Is the proper procedure to remove one nut at a time apply antiseize to the thread apply a new washer and apply the correct torque? Also do you start with the #1 nut and then #2 and then #3 as in the tightening sequence?

 

[angus67]

U got to “sneak up” on it. Spin the nuts down, tighten a little more, always following the sequence, until its time to start looking for the “clic” of the torque wrench. 3 passes maybe? But u sure dont want to just throw one acorn nut on it, torque it down, then go to the next no..... you got to ease the head on. Dig?

 

[xjwmx]

Is the proper procedure to remove one nut at a time apply antiseize to the thread apply a new washer and apply the correct torque? Also do you start with the #1 nut and then #2 and then #3 as in the tightening sequence?

Yes. But there are those who say replace the washer, and others just as good who say leave it there. So I know what I'd do You may find it doesn't help the leak. I think the gaskets can compress and bake all they're going to compress and bake and then the gasket might as well be a sheet of tin flashing, Unfortunately you can't do more (like replace those gaskets) unless you take the engine out of the bike. Not hard, but at the same time is a major pain.