Leaky push rod seal? Or leaky output shaft seal?

[B Burdine97]

Good evening gentlemen, Today i decided to track the source of my oil leak from under the left side engine cover. While looking for the leak I noticed more oil under the output shaft then I did the push rod. But I did notice how easy the push rod itself was to move up and down, side to side. I also noticed if I moved it enough I could see a visible gap between the push rod and the seal. The push rod seal is red, which I believe I read on here indicates it has been replaced. I'm curious if the gap I am seeing between the push rod and the seal is normal or not? Could this be the source of my oil leak or could it be my output shaft seal instead, due to the nut not being tight? I grabbed the nut on the output shaft and noticed I was able to wiggle it left and right maybe 1/8 inch, Im guessing thats an issue, needs to be retorqued and that could be where my oil leak is coming from? Picture included.
Thanks!

 

[weekendrider]

If you can move the output shaft nut it needs to be re-torqued. Do that first then check for push rod leaks.

 

[5twins]

No, the red seal is an original. The replacements are black. There's a bushing behind the seal that the push rod passes through. If you can move the rod as much as you say, that bushing may need replacing too (along with the seal).

 

[angus67]

Retorque your output , and clean up the area, but it sounds like the bushing behind the clutch rod is worn..

 

[B Burdine97]

Okay sounds good guys, thanks for the help!

 

[gggGary]

Yes both can be the source. Being able to move the rod enough to stretch the seal open is "normal" also. When the cover is on the worm mechanism keeps the rod centered in the seal. Usually the "cleanest" area points at the leak, as the steady flow of engine oil washes off the old dirty deposits.

 

[B Burdine97]

Okay good to know Gary. I didn't think about the leaking area being the cleanest but it makes sense. Thanks!

 

[B Burdine97]

Ok since on the subject. What is a good torque setting for the output shaft nut? I have heard many different numbers being thrown around. My bike is a 81 if it makes a difference. Is holding my foot on the brake then tighten the nut the way to go? Or put the bike in gear and put something in the wheel to stop it from rotating.

 

[gggGary]

Real tight. LOL unless you have a 36mm socket and a big breaker bar you won't get it "too tight". BUT the huge thing is placing and making sure the thin "washer" stays with it's inner teeth between the output shaft segments. they sit in a thin recess between the nut and shaft end. The washer "wants" to slip out as you tighten the nut causing a "false tight" that does not properly tension the assembly, stopping the leak. Often as not I find the "locking washer teeth" mangled when I remove the nut. Reminder; the recessed side of the nut faces in.

 

[5twins]

Put the bike in gear AND step on the rear brake. Tighten the nut so it turns the motor over and brings it onto a compression stroke, then step on the brake. Yes, the torque spec changed quite a few times during the production run. As Gary said, tighter is better, so most of us use the higher values that were given for the early bikes. These were 10-13 m-kg, or 72-94 ft/lbs.

 

[B Burdine97]

Alright great, thanks again gentlemen!

 

[weekendrider]

In lieu of stepping on the brake I lock it down with the adjuster nut.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I would like to recommend a simple 1/2" electric impact driver.
230 ft-lbs, $50, Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html

 

[B Burdine97]

I have a battery Milwaukee 3/8 drive impact driver I use daily at work. Just wont know what kind of torque Im putting on it when using an impact obviously. Doesn't sound like it matters when it comes to the output shaft nut, sounds like the tighter the better.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Zip guns vs torque wrenches sure is a heated area of discussion.
For infrequent, or one-time, use, especially for a non-mechanic, the torque wrench is best. The problem here, with our bikes, is the callouts for high torques on things that don't want to conveniently stay still, like sprocket and clutch nuts.

The zip gun is great for removing. But it does take practice, time, and cross-checking with a beam wrench to develop the knack for torque-down. You need that skill if you're working in a breakneck shop environment. Nowadays, you have the "impact wrench torque stick", which limits the delivered torque. I see those in regular use at the tire stores.

One way to develop the skill is to get an assortment of bolts/nuts, a torque wrench for cross-checking, and go after them with the gun. (or, your neighbor's lugnuts)...

 

[B Burdine97]

Haha yeah I'll just re torque my neighbors lug nuts for him.. sure he won't mind.

 

[grizld1]

One thing that's worked for me is to stick a fat rag between chain and sprocket, roll the wheel backward until the rag jams up, and run down the brake adjuster.

 

[B Burdine97]

Forgot about that method! I went to a votec school for heavy equipment mechanic and we often used that method during engine tear down when it was time to put the gears in the front of the engine back on, injection pump, water pump and idler gears. Works great!