Its funny actually because im going to change the shocks. At the minute they are 400mm eye to eye. I going to get some hagon 360/380mm i think it will sit better. Its never seen dirt !
 
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Down to one now, the '77. A little ratty up close but she's mechanically sound and satisfies my tinkering itch.
 
nj1639 - Not ratty but lots of character! Where did you get the voltmeter?

Thanks peterg!
Voltmeter came from Tractor Supply, about $15 bucks. It mounts into the gauge support bracket where the ignition switch used to be and looks like it was meant to be there. A bit of metal on the support bracket should be removed to keep from shorting the voltmeters positive connector on the back and I added a couple of rubber bushings to the voltmeters mounting posts for damping.

The voltmeters lighting is tied into the gauge lights and its power source is a hot wire that energizes when the ignition is turned on.

The light trees base has its two lower moulded in nuts drilled out for the meters mounts to go through, and the light trees display is cut and then shaped to fit over to the voltmeter......my belt sanders forward wheel was the perfect shape for that curve lol. The neutral light is now just above the meter where the " light failure " warning was and turn signal display stays where it was.
It's a nice "heads up" for charging woe prevention.
 
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Ok, the carbs are off in these pics, mailing out tonight for Rick at oldskoolcarbs to work his magic, but MAN OH MAN I just had to share these! I recieved my new seat last night and it looks just as good as I imagined it would! It is such a dramatic improvement to the old stock seat! With the black bars and contrasting brown grips, the bike looks so sharp. The seat is a Texavina brand, I bought it off Ebay. It is a metal seat pan with a vinyl cover, with threaded holes right where the stock seatpans holes are. You just swap the hinges and latch onto the new pan and you’re good to go!
 
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Ok, the carbs are off in these pics, mailing out tonight.......
You've said before you don't have a garage. Get some duct tape over them carb holes!!! Rags will just absorb moisture and let it pass into the engine.

Seat looks nice!!!
 
Nj1639. Thanks. I’m looking at installing a voltmeter on my 1980 special. I have new small gauges mounted to the old gauge brackets and plan to mount the voltmeter to the old key switch mount. My key switch is now under the tank mounted to the horn bracket.
 
View attachment 118771 View attachment 118770 View attachment 118769 View attachment 118768 Ok, the carbs are off in these pics, mailing out tonight for Rick at oldskoolcarbs to work his magic, but MAN OH MAN I just had to share these! I recieved my new seat last night and it looks just as good as Imagined it would! It is such a dramatic improvement to the old stock seat! With the black bars and contrasting brown grips, the bike looks so sharp. The seat is a Texavina brand, I bought it off Ebay. It is a metal seat pan with a vinyl cover, with threaded hikes right where the stock seatpans holes are. You just swap the hinges and latch onto the new pan and you’re good to go!

Any chance you have a link to the seat?
 
I’ve kept everything I’ve taken off the bike, with the exception of the original filters. I’m a purist at heart, so I’m not making any permanent changes to the bike. I like keeping everything so if I sell it the new owner could restore it back to its original condition.
 
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That's one of the best aftermarket seats I've seen. What's up with the left muffler? (rust like mine?)
 
They need to be taped over or repaired before installing the carbs...........Rick will have them jetted for good exhausts............lots of ways to repair/cover the rust without costing much money...........
 
Inquiring minds would like to know the ways Skull. Thanks.

I would find a piece of thin gauge tin, beer can would suffice but i would probably look for something a bit thicker and stronger............. Cut to a bit wider than the rust width, (probably do in 2 or possibly 3 pieces), make a small hole in the center of the insert to put something like a wire or long small screw to hold the insert in place by hand. ........probably riveting is best, (small SS rivet), and pre-drilling, through the muffler first, drill through the insert and rivet............once the rust hole has been filled find a product like JB weld, (or there may be alternatives out there as long as it will take the heat) ,and smear a coating to fill the area and smooth off.........may need to do some light grinding then buy some chrome paint and paint............Sure may look a little rough but would be good from 10' and should last a couple of seasons, maybe longer if done right............As anything prep is the answer to longevity and cheaper than a new set of mufflers, especially as the rest of those originals look good in the pics
 
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