Lift Strategy: Is it Advisable ?

YamadudeXS650C

Central New York XS650
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I haven't bought a bike work stand/lift because it would be in the way much of the time.
I do have 2 bike jacks which are functional, but they don't allow full access the the underside, of course.
Given that I put in an electric hoist awhile ago, today I used soft ties to work out a lift strategy.
I suppose I have already answered my own question, as I successfully lifted (nicely) the '80 off the ground just now, but I am concerned about the integrity of the triple tree clamp.
Opinions ? Have you also done this ?

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I thought my stand would be in the way too but since it takes up about as much room as a motorcycle and there is ALWAYS a MC to be worked on... I just store one bike at all times on it.
 
Yamaha Dude,

I've tried what you are undertaking. It works ok but the fact that it is always free to swing a bit is unnerving. In the end I went with an air/over hydraulic stand which is very stable and sure. The stand can be a bit awkward when working on the bottom of the motor but it's great when the front end or rear end is apart.

roy
 
I love having my lift. I got the harbor freight lift a few months ago and life is good. Beats the hell out of a plastic crate and a few boards. Even for changing oil. Jack it up to waste level and dump it out!!
 
I've considered a "raise arm from the ceiling a few times, but my ceiling is low about 7' 6" and the harbor freight keeps going like an energizer bunny. Like ThatXS650Guy there's always the bike on the lift and usually the one I'm working on down on the floor. :mad: :banghead::cussing::hump:
 
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I've considered a "raise arm frm the ceiling a few times, my ceiling is low about 7' 6" and the harbor freight keeps going like an energizer bunny. Like ThatXS650Guy there's always the bike on the lift and usually the one I'm working on down on the floor. :mad: :banghead::cussing::hump:
I'm hesitant to buy more Chinese hydraulics. Both of my automotive jacks leak. One of the two motorcycle jacks is seeping. Both of my HF wood splitters leaked oil profusely.
 
Good point 'Dude mine didn't leak for years, stayed up with a 900 pound bike on it over the winter didn't even have the stop rod in.. bought it used about 8 years ago. I keep a bit of cardboard under it now, it has a slow drip and did slowly drop (a week) with the royal star on it. My 40 plus year old blackhawk 2 ton floor jack, soldiers on, i think I added hydraulic fluid once about 8 years ago.
 
I've had my HF lift for six years now. No leaks yet but I always have the stop rod in.
 
Good point 'Dude mine didn't leak for years, stayed up with a 900 pound bike on it over the winter didn't even have the stop rod in.. bought it used about 8 years ago. I keep a bit of cardboard under it now, it has a slow drip and did slowly drop (a week) with the royal star on it. My 40 plus year old blackhawk 2 ton floor jack, soldiers on, i think I added hydraulic fluid once about 8 years ago.
Gary, ur comment gives me an idea: find an HF lift on Craigs that has been "broken in", and doesn't seem to leak. Reading the HF reviews, the issues seem to happen right out of the box.

Alternative: pull my old kart stand out that was designed by a mechanical engineer as a one-off. Uses an electric 12v boat trailer jack. Perhaps I could modify it to lift more weight.....
BTW, I had no trailer at the time (poverty); the 8 foot kart, lift, tools, and all fit in the Chevy wagon, though the nosepiece came into the front seat area :)

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I bought one of the narrow scissors type lifts that was "made in the USA" Couldn't get it back out of my shop fast enough. That one was awkward to use and the narrow width was problem for stability and getting the bike on lift strapped in place (it has to strapped on the narrow lifts) Unless you are really long of inseam (me) getting a bike up on a narrow lift is a big issue. On platform type lifts on the side or centerstand is usually all that is needed 'til big parts need to come off the bike. IMHO the platform with room for tools and removed parts is well worth the space it takes in the shop.

https://www.kendonusa.com/product/stand-up-middleweight-bike-lift/ This lift gets a two thumbs down from me. Sorry but everything about it, annoyed me at best, or was downright dangerous at worst.
 
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My current thinking here at 8:40 in the morning is to build a wooden platform, put heavy castors on it, and use the ceiling hoist to get the bikes up there.

Alternatively, there are these plans for a hinged tabletop, below. Not sure what it would be like to push it up that ramp.
The table measures at 24", while the HF table measures at 26.5". What do you think of these width measures ? Is 24" enough ? That would be an easy split of a 3/4" plywood 4 x 8.
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Anything from HF has potential for problems, but I've spent a bit of time looking into those lift tables and the general opinions on them seem to be overwhelmingly positive. Even if it starts leaking at some point, you'd have to figure that the HF stand is $300, and the next step is an $8-900 lift, so you could use it, and replace the hydraulic jack with something a bit nicer and still by way under the cost of the next cheapest lift.

I was also hesitant about losing the floor space and having something in the way, but I need to build a new work bench in the garage, so my plan is just to put the lower shelf at the right height that I can just slide the lift under the work bench when it's not in use. It'll stick out a couple inches, but that shouldn't really be a big deal.

I do see some used ones on craigslist, but they're always listed for $250-300, and given HF's sale prices and coupons, you can get a brand new one for $300, so it's hard to argue against just buying a new one.
 
My current thinking here at 8:40 in the morning is to build a wooden platform, put heavy castors on it, and use the ceiling hoist to get the bikes up there.

Alternatively, there are these plans for a hinged tabletop, below. Not sure what it would be like to push it up that ramp.

A few years ago I made a wooden work table when I was rebuilding a bike. It was nice because I could pull the legs off and stand it up against the wall. I just used a normal ramp and pushed it up as if you were putting it in the back of a truck. Not the most convenient, but it worked. I tried to save cash by making one, but by the time I bought the 2x6s, a box of VCT tiles, caster wheels... I think I had spent about $150, and with the time invested.. wished I had just spent the money on a real lift. I ended up selling it when I redid my garage because I knew I wasn't going to want to keep shuffling it around.
 
Anything from HF has potential for problems, but I've spent a bit of time looking into those lift tables and the general opinions on them seem to be overwhelmingly positive. Even if it starts leaking at some point, you'd have to figure that the HF stand is $300, and the next step is an $8-900 lift, so you could use it, and replace the hydraulic jack with something a bit nicer and still by way under the cost of the next cheapest lift.

I was also hesitant about losing the floor space and having something in the way, but I need to build a new work bench in the garage, so my plan is just to put the lower shelf at the right height that I can just slide the lift under the work bench when it's not in use. It'll stick out a couple inches, but that shouldn't really be a big deal.

I do see some used ones on craigslist, but they're always listed for $250-300, and given HF's sale prices and coupons, you can get a brand new one for $300, so it's hard to argue against just buying a new one.
Store under the workbench. Great idea.
 
Well gggGary that does say one thing, you don't get what you pay for ...you get what you shop for ! Geez at that price of $799 it should do the laundry too ! damm !
.....
what's the one from Harbor freight go for these days ?
Bob......
 
As soon as you get your harbor freight lift, file and round the corners on the table or your jeans (and leg) will get torn.
I bought that Kendon used and cheap with the PO saying "it works just like the factory designed it". I used the exact same phrase when I sold it. I spent a day or better, removed the PO's mods and tried my own to make it more mechanic friendly but threw in the towel. To be fair I think Kendon has revised it a bit since.
Best way to buy an HF is in package with a "failed project bike" sitting on it. I've bought three that way. LOL
Will probably have a second one out in the shed if I get some concrete out there,
(might happen this summer) Even an HF table is a bit narrow for BIG bike sidestands, sometimes have the front tire half on the turned up edge to get the side stand mostly on the table, should weld a side stand bulge on it "one of these days".
PS it is no fun getting a big bike on the centerstand once it's on the table, just not enough room for the bike and me balancing it and grunting it up on the stand. I ask my wife to come down and spot but usually get r done at risk of life, limb, and bike before she shows, XS is little problem.
 
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"Dude:
Your current arrangement in Post #1 looks OK to me - assuming the anchor in the ceiling is secure and the entire thing (anchor, cable, pulley blocks and straps etc.) are all rated for 1000 lb or better. I would always want a factor of safety of AT LEAST 2.0 on this sort of thing - and a Yamaha 650 weighs around 450 lb give or take....

NOTE: The only change I would make is to move the strap shown in the second (lower) photo from behind the rear shock to in front of it.
That way, the strap cannot shift backwards and potentially drop the rear end of the bike on the floor.
The wooden ramp idea in Post #13 also looks promising - recognising that pushing the bike up the ramp might be a challenge... I'd be sure to locate where the bike's sidestand and centrestand pads were going to wind up - and be sure to reinforce those spots very well. Perhaps get some grid plate (see below) and screw it on in each of those places.

On the matter of HF hoists and hydraulic leaks: If your hoist cylinder is leaking - why not simply get a new seal for it. Seals are pretty standard items and come in standard sizes. If you dig the seal out of the cylinder, you can simply take it to an industrial supply house, and they'll sell you a new seal for less than $10. The process would be identical to replacing the seals on a motorcycle fork leg.

Alternatively, you could likely replace the entire cylinder assembly for $50 or less. All you need is a cylinder close to the correct stroke and diameter and suitable end and hose fittings. Exactness is not necessary here - close would be good enough.

Pete

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This morning is typical; 79 survivor is on the lift as I work out the "garyized" valve seal change. and it's parked in by the Venture, meanwhile I've got Period Piece coming apart in the driveway. Gotta fix a taillight ground so the bags had to come off to get the seat off. Have to take the gas tank off to do a test of a coil I'll ship to rickthebike. When I removed the fuel line the vacuum petcock was pouring gas, but the replacement o-rings I ordered off eBay came in yesterday, so the tank is now draining into a fuel can to remove and rebuild the petcock again. Good news is the cruisinimage BS34 float valves are sealing PERFECTLY, no fuel in the oil. 9 AM and I'm about 5 projects deep so far today.
 
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