Lift Strategy: Is it Advisable ?

Dude, to answer your original question, yep, I've lifted bikes with straps, and no, you won't distort the clamps that way. I use separate lift points front and rear with ratchet binders rather than a power lift. Even with a late XS650 with full fluids you'll only be hoisting at most 225 lbs. in front and 275 in the rear. Concerned about stability? Lift with straps, pull down the center stand, put your table under the bike, and lower gently--cheap, easy, no risk, and no flaky hydraulics to mess with.
 
Good news is the cruisinimage BS34 float valves are sealing PERFECTLY, no fuel in the oil. 9 AM and I'm about 5 projects deep so far today.
I'm a fan of cruisinimage so far, but Mike's float valves were sealing perfectly until it ended....

Regarding the lift, for most people it would be a luxury, so makes no sense to skimp. Work on it hanging from straps? Not unless you can't bend over.
 
This morning is typical; 79 survivor is on the lift as I work out the "garyized" valve seal change. and it's parked in by the Venture, meanwhile I've got Period Piece coming apart in the driveway. Gotta fix a taillight ground so the bags had to come off to get the seat off. Have to take the gas tank off to do a test of a coil I'll ship to rickthebike. When I removed the fuel line the vacuum petcock was pouring gas, but the replacement o-rings I ordered off eBay came in yesterday, so the tank is now draining into a fuel can to remove and rebuild the petcock again. Good news is the cruisinimage BS34 float valves are sealing PERFECTLY, no fuel in the oil. 9 AM and I'm about 5 projects deep so far today.
Busy guy ! I'm so much more leisurely.
 
"Dude:
Your current arrangement in Post #1 looks OK to me - assuming the anchor in the ceiling is secure and the entire thing (anchor, cable, pulley blocks and straps etc.) are all rated for 1000 lb or better. I would always want a factor of safety of AT LEAST 2.0 on this sort of thing - and a Yamaha 650 weighs around 450 lb give or take....

NOTE: The only change I would make is to move the strap shown in the second (lower) photo from behind the rear shock to in front of it.
That way, the strap cannot shift backwards and potentially drop the rear end of the bike on the floor.
The wooden ramp idea in Post #13 also looks promising - recognising that pushing the bike up the ramp might be a challenge... I'd be sure to locate where the bike's sidestand and centrestand pads were going to wind up - and be sure to reinforce those spots very well. Perhaps get some grid plate (see below) and screw it on in each of those places.

On the matter of HF hoists and hydraulic leaks: If your hoist cylinder is leaking - why not simply get a new seal for it. Seals are pretty standard items and come in standard sizes. If you dig the seal out of the cylinder, you can simply take it to an industrial supply house, and they'll sell you a new seal for less than $10. The process would be identical to replacing the seals on a motorcycle fork leg.

Alternatively, you could likely replace the entire cylinder assembly for $50 or less. All you need is a cylinder close to the correct stroke and diameter and suitable end and hose fittings. Exactness is not necessary here - close would be good enough.

Pete

View attachment 103485
Your current arrangement in Post #1 looks OK to me - assuming the anchor in the ceiling is secure and the entire thing (anchor, cable, pulley blocks and straps etc.) are all rated for 1000 lb or better. Oh, yes.

NOTE: The only change I would make is to move the strap shown in the second (lower) photo from behind the rear shock to in front of it.
That way, the strap cannot shift backwards and potentially drop the rear end of the bike on the floor. Good idea.
The wooden ramp idea in Post #13 also looks promising - recognising that pushing the bike up the ramp might be a challenge... I'd be sure to locate where the bike's sidestand and centrestand pads were going to wind up - and be sure to reinforce those spots very well. Perhaps get some grid plate (see below) and screw it on in each of those places. Good idea. Found a big piece of grid plate in the road a few years ago. I'm such a trash picker.

On the matter of HF hoists and hydraulic leaks: If your hoist cylinder is leaking - why not simply get a new seal for it. Seals are pretty standard items and come in standard sizes. If you dig the seal out of the cylinder, you can simply take it to an industrial supply house Never dug into one of them things before, but you make it sound easy peasy.
 
Dude, to answer your original question, yep, I've lifted bikes with straps, and no, you won't distort the clamps that way. I use separate lift points front and rear with ratchet binders rather than a power lift. Even with a late XS650 with full fluids you'll only be hoisting at most 225 lbs. in front and 275 in the rear. Concerned about stability? Lift with straps, pull down the center stand, put your table under the bike, and lower gently--cheap, easy, no risk, and no flaky hydraulics to mess with.
Exactly; that is my current plan.
 
Dude, to answer your original question, yep, I've lifted bikes with straps, and no, you won't distort the clamps that way. I use separate lift points front and rear with ratchet binders rather than a power lift. Even with a late XS650 with full fluids you'll only be hoisting at most 225 lbs. in front and 275 in the rear. Concerned about stability? Lift with straps, pull down the center stand, put your table under the bike, and lower gently--cheap, easy, no risk, and no flaky hydraulics to mess with.
Thanks for your input.
 
On the matter of HF hoists and hydraulic leaks: If your hoist cylinder is leaking - why not simply get a new seal for it. Seals are pretty standard items and come in standard sizes. If you dig the seal out of the cylinder, you can simply take it to an industrial supply house Never dug into one of them things before, but you make it sound easy peasy.

Yup - it really is easy. The key thing is to be methodical and go gently when putting in the new seal. If you look at my thread on Lucille's fork repair ("Forking around with Lucille") - I showed how I pulled the new seals into place with a piece of threaded rod and some big washers. It was easy-peasy.

Pete
 
I've also lifted plenty of bikes with straps. I've never done extensive work to a bike while it was dangling, but I've lifted it to pull off the wheels to get the tires changed. Also useful to lift the bike, put something under that will hold it, then set it back down. You can still see my straps dangling from this one...

264750_10100175722318003_223312_n.jpg


The trickiest part is letting the bike down gently with the ratchet straps, but you get the hang of it after a minute. The easiest one I've ever had was a YZ426 supermoto. All you had to do when you wanted to work on it was lay it down on it's side haha.
 
I've also lifted plenty of bikes with straps. I've never done extensive work to a bike while it was dangling, but I've lifted it to pull off the wheels to get the tires changed. Also useful to lift the bike, put something under that will hold it, then set it back down. You can still see my straps dangling from this one...

264750_10100175722318003_223312_n.jpg


The trickiest part is letting the bike down gently with the ratchet straps, but you get the hang of it after a minute. The easiest one I've ever had was a YZ426 supermoto. All you had to do when you wanted to work on it was lay it down on it's side haha.
I had the FJR (582 lbs.) up on the hoist last month. Now, that was a test of my mounting of the lift.
A Chevy small block is about 575.
My set-up could probably lift twice that.
 
I agree with Gary, the older HF lift tables are made better. I've had mine about 10 years now. My buddy just got one about 6 months ago. His isn't made as well. Mine has a few grease fittings on some of the moving shafts, his has none. My stop bar is plated, his is just painted black. My wheels are bigger and my lift & lower pedals are beefier. Slip on and off the square ended shafts easier/better too. His lowering pedal in particular is a royal P.I.T.A. It mounts with a set bolt and you must have it tight for it to work. That means you can't just slip it off like mine, you need a wrench. His cost more too, lol. Back when I got mine, they often went on sale for $280. Applying the 20% off coupon knocked $56 off, bringing the price down to $224. Sales tax bumped that back up nearly $20, but I was still out the door for under $250. How could I not buy it, lol.
 
Hay Yamadude ! thank you for the plans for the tilting table bike stand ! I may make one of those !
looks handy ! .
thanks !
Bob.......
 
I love having my lift. I got the harbor freight lift a few months ago and life is good. Beats the hell out of a plastic crate and a few boards. Even for changing oil. Jack it up to waste level and dump it out!!
Milk crates.....hmmmmm........wonder how strong they are...........
apparently, this guy had his alloys stolen and found his car like this:

Car+001.jpg
 
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