Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
I'm going to assume these are the symptoms of a loose chain. Should I buy a new one, tighten the one I have?
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Loose Chain?
- Thread starter Chris Costello
- Start date
Hi Chris,
that's two questions:-
Q1) Should this chain be tightened? A1) You betcha! It's way too loose.
Q2) Should it be replaced? A2) Depends how worn it is.
Check for chain wear by trying to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock position.
If it lifts off the sprocket's teeth by more than half a roller's worth it needs replacing.
Replace chain and sprockets as a set, they last a lot longer that way.
Sealed chain (O-ring or X-ring) outlasts normal bike chain mebbe 5 to 1 so long as it's properly lubricated.
(I use a ScottOiler)
that's two questions:-
Q1) Should this chain be tightened? A1) You betcha! It's way too loose.
Q2) Should it be replaced? A2) Depends how worn it is.
Check for chain wear by trying to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock position.
If it lifts off the sprocket's teeth by more than half a roller's worth it needs replacing.
Replace chain and sprockets as a set, they last a lot longer that way.
Sealed chain (O-ring or X-ring) outlasts normal bike chain mebbe 5 to 1 so long as it's properly lubricated.
(I use a ScottOiler)
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
yes and yes
If you don't know how to properly adjust a chain, a new one won't help.
Your repair manual tells you how. Both adjustment and replacement.
Leo
Your repair manual tells you how. Both adjustment and replacement.
Leo
Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
So I'm reading the online manual and it's telling me to loosen the rear brake adjuster, would that be A or B on the picture here?
B in your picture is the "brake adjuster".
Hi Chris,
like mr2wheel sez, loosen adjusting nut B before the wheel moves back and re-set it afterwards.
And it may be the camera angle but it looks to me that unless the brake is being applied in that photo
the brake actuating arm is installed one spline too forward.
That or the brake shoe linings are extremely worn.
Try removing nut & bolt A, removing the actuating arm and replacing it one spline clockwise.
But first, now is the time to remove the rear wheel, pull the brake apart, check the linings for wear and generally clean up in there.
like mr2wheel sez, loosen adjusting nut B before the wheel moves back and re-set it afterwards.
And it may be the camera angle but it looks to me that unless the brake is being applied in that photo
the brake actuating arm is installed one spline too forward.
That or the brake shoe linings are extremely worn.
Try removing nut & bolt A, removing the actuating arm and replacing it one spline clockwise.
But first, now is the time to remove the rear wheel, pull the brake apart, check the linings for wear and generally clean up in there.
I don't support automatically changing sprockets when you change the chain. Often your sprockets, especially the rear, will show no signs of wear. If you throw it away it definitely isn't lasting longer... Or if it was worn and wearing out your chain faster, compare its cost plus a chain, with just a chain and how much faster the chain wears because of the worn sprocket. Not a simple problem really 
But I repeat, often the sprockets will show no wear, compared to a brand new one.
But I repeat, often the sprockets will show no wear, compared to a brand new one.
After adjusting the chain, check the brake light switch, it may need adjustment.
Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
Anyone have an idea as to why the throttle is sticking and how I can stop it?
^I don't see any sticking in the vid, but possible causes are rusted cable, cable needs oil, grip pushed on too far so it doesn't turn freely. Also make sure the cable is adjusted at the grip so there is at least about 1/16" slack turn in the grip where it doesn't pull on the shaft.
Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
If you look at the second time I pull the throttle, it doesn't go all the way back
The first time you let the spring pull it back, the second time it looks like you eased off the throttle. My assumption is the cable. when you dropped the throttle hard the spring did it's job. When you eased off I'm thinking the spring couldn't overtake the drag of the cable. Just my guess....
Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
Here's another video of the throttle without the cable
Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
A video of throttle plates
Hi Chris.
your blink-of-an-eye videos plainly show that your butterfly plates ain't snapping all the way shut when you let the lever go.
And they should. The "usual suspect" here is dirt.
I'd say thoroughly clean the carbs until they snap shut all the way every time.
After you get that sorted, clean the carbs innards, too.
The tech section will tell you all about that.
Chris Costello
XS650 Enthusiast
I'll be sure to make a 1 hour special documentary next time. II'll try re-cleaning the carbs, I had the carbs apart about a month ago and sprayed everything down with carb cleaner and replaced everything I could replace with the kit from Mikes.
Did you do anything with the throttle plates, like take the small screws out?
Another thought is the nut that holds the throttle actuating arm on the left carb. If you had that off and then tightened her down too much when you reassembled.
Another thought is the nut that holds the throttle actuating arm on the left carb. If you had that off and then tightened her down too much when you reassembled.
Hi Chris,
although the 9 second clip was too fast for this old person's reaction time the first time it opened, the 16 second clip let me diagnose the problem.
I'd suggest that a 30 second clip would be the optimum.
Alas that a 60 minute documentary could exceed my attention span and I'd certainly have to pause it to take a bathroom break.
As you say the carbs were already cleaned, you must have not reassembled them quite right.
Best I can remember, the arm is only free to go inward so far no matter how much you tighten the nut.
I see the symptom in the video now. Something has to be binding or maybe the return spring is the wrong one, or too weak, or put on wrong.
When it is not fully closed and then you push it closed, do you feel it binding anywhere? Does it feel free? Hear any scraping? Is the spring still trying to help at that point, or is it loose?
