Magura Clutch Lever and Aluminum pushrod

A while back on another post I mentioned that I was going to use a Magura clutch lever assembly on my XS2. I also mentioned that the Magura had more cable travel. I knew it would increase cable movement, but had not really checked to see how much.
Since the Magura I had is going back on my X75 I ordered a new one. The only new ones I could find were split perches. Did find some old style ones on E-Bay that people thought were worth a fortune. I ordered a split perch like this one. Best price I could find.


In the other post 2M had mentioned a problem with our cables being a larger diameter than the Magura feral. Little more research and found this. Just what is needed to use a Magura assy on a 650.

The only good clutch cable I have is on my bike, did not want to test with a worn out one so I ordered a new Motion Pro cable. Never hurts to have a spare.
Time for testing. 3 clutch lever assemblies. New split perch Magura, old style Magura and a not worn much Yamaha. Going to check them using a short arm actuator and a long arm actuator. Also used the same grip on the handle bars for all the tests.

The test setup. Added a kick stand return spring to make sure the arms returned as far as the could.

Results of test below. Definite travel difference.
Short Arm Long Arm
Stock lever .095 .067
Old style Magura .120 .082
New split perch Magura .132 .092

The Magura could help if you are having disengagement problems with your clutch and you are sure everything is set up correctly. I'm going to experiment next riding season with the short arm verses the long arm worms using the split perch.
There is one disadvantage with the lever, it sits farther away from the handlebars than a stock lever. That's what gives it more cable travel. My hands are big enough it should not be a problem. I'm also curious if .132 of push rod travel is more than the clutch can handle. I put it on my bike and it feels OK with the short arm worm that is in the cover. Doesn't feel like it's coil binding, but I have not ridden it yet.

 

Common thing we did on our dirt bikes was to shorten the lever so it did not extend past the end of the handlebars. Nothing worse than having a tree apply your front brake or clutch as you went between them. Plus removing the ball at the end would let vines slip off easier.

 

Nice bike. Always liked the straight pull Magure throttle. Change my X75 to one a long time ago, lot easier and cleaner throttle cable routing.
Which arm are you using on your clutch worm?

 

Update on the lever. I put 30 smiles on the bike with the short arm worm. It worked fine. No rubbing noise from the clutch cover. Last weekend I put a long arm worm on it and rode it 25 smiles. Liked that even better. Clutch easier to pull. I did notice when I got home I had extra free-play at the lever. Nothing unusual. Clutch still worked fine. The next morning after motor cooled down it was back to the original amount of free play. My bike has always done that. On a real hot day I would have to adjust the cable at the lever so I could stop and not have the bike try to creep forward. I think the extra throw of the Magura lever could lessen the need to readjust.

I remembered 2M had a thread about that problem. So I looked it up and read it a few times. I thought it was a great idea.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-pushrod-experiment-tidbits.32267/
Long story short I found some 6061AL 5/16th rod on Amazon that I could get in a few days. Ordered and it showed up this morning. A little lath time and a new rod was born. Going to give it a try. Wanted to try it out today but it's snowing.
I was able to find 7071AL in 8mm. Ordered 1 piece, it's ten times more expensive than the 6061AL but as 2M found out it will last a lot longer. It's coming from China so who knows when it will get here.

 

Update on the Magura clutch lever and aluminum clutch push rod.
First the Magura lever assembly. Works very well. Has more cable travel than a stock lever. It with the long arm worm gives the push rod plenty of travel. Pull is just fine to me. No problems with clutch dragging at stop lights.
The aluminum push rod makes a huge difference. Very minimal change in cable free play between a cold engine and a hot engine. Set the adjusting screw at the worm at 3/16 of a turn from touching, adjust cable at lever and you are done. I used to get a lot of extra free play when the motor warmed up. Now very little. I like it.
The first aluminum rod I made was out of 5/16 6061AL. Ran it for 1000 miles and checked it for wear. Not bad it had a little wear where the seal and bushing ride. During the time I was testing it I had ordered 1 piece of 8mm 7075AL from China. Took almost 2 months to get to me. Made a push rod out of it. Went to install and it wouldn't fit. It measured .619 instead of .615. F@CK Remembered 2M had posted a link where he found some 8mm 7075AL, found the link and ordered some. Got to me in less than a week. It's even the right size and fits. Made a push rod and installed. I only have 600 smiles on it. Checked it the other day and looks good. Plus it works great.
Last winter I sent Mailman a couple of the 6161AL pushrods to test. He had the same results I had.
If anybody's wants one I they are for sale for $17.50 +shipping. If interested PM me.
Edit: The ones for sale are 8mm 7075AL

 

Gives me an idea.