...grasshopper, patience and persistence, left carb float seems not to be stopping gas flow...did you ever try with the bowl off to manually operate float? Can not open and close petcock while riding...my suggestion again is to physically see that float needle stopping flow.
 
Remember that the dual output coil produces a positive Voltage to one of the spark plugs and a negative to the other. The timing light will only work properly on the negative Voltage wire, so you really can't check the spark on each wire to their respective cylinder. You have to determine which wire is negative and use it for both cylinders.
 
Okay, trying to pluck out the salient points.

... the left cylinder is still running crappy. It absolutely will not idle.

...if I hold the throttle open more on the left carb, it will more or less run steady.

Would this be an indicator that my idle circuit is not operating properly on my left carb? Perhaps a blockage?

...the left plug was wet with gas,

...The left cylinder can be made to run, just not very well.

...I was running mostly with the petcocks shut off, I would fill the bowls up, start it up and mess with it until the bowls start to run down, then just before it really starves, the running seems to get better and the engine speeds up, I would open the petcocks and the engine slows right down and back to running crappy. :umm:

Sounds like the left side pilot circuit is rich.
A clogged idle air bleed can do that.
And there's more...
 
And there's more.

More!!??
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4E9018CC-3CAE-45E4-A4A3-47F8C1D9BD44.jpeg
Kablatta, Kablatta, Kablatta
Ignore the white fuel tank , I’m just using it for testing. Still not there yet, but getting better.

The first I did today was yank the carbs off, break them all the way down and clean them like it was the first time. I paid particular attention to all the air pathways and idle circuits. All jets and choke assembly was removed , all were checked visually for obstructions, all orifices sprayed with carb cleaner and then blown through with compressed air. I verified that all internal passageways were unobstructed. I re checked the float heights and then I reassembled everything.
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I and had them back on the bike before lunch and fired the bike up AND.........No improvement. You've gotta be kidding me. :(

So then I swapped the plug leads around, and whadya know, left cylinder started hitting. So I pulled the plug wires off and re fitted all the connections. Before , I had simply cut the wires off square and screwed the caps on, this time I tried 5Twins method of splaying the inter wire over the ends, before screwing the connections on.
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I restarted the bike, and now it’s running better. Still sputtering, and too rich, but at least I can get the engine to run un attended and mess with the carbs and check my charging ( which is excellent by the way :D )

It’s still not where it needs to be, but it’s getting better. As I said it’s still very rich and it misses and pops at idle, it revs pretty nicely as you saw on the video. The plugs are very black and sooty.
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So enough for today......I’m going to go and enjoy a small victory by taking a nap in my recliner.
Hey by the way, I saw someone else here order this set. I just got it from eBay $30, such a deal!
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My sidecovers mount using bolts , they are 8mm x 1.25. The holes are stripped and an 8mm repair kit by itself was half the cost of this whole kit. :thumbsup:
See ya later,
The Bobster
 
Great video ! and Great news too !
Now you're having fun. Lets see that speedometer move too soon
:bike:

Thanks Randy! I hope to get it running good enough to do just that very soon!


can you check vacuum. And are both throttles lifting at the same time.

I don’t have any vacuum nipples on my bike. When I first installed the throttle cables I took great care to make sure that they are lifting together, but they have been moved around a lot since then, it would be good to check them again.
 
A couple other observations. I’m still not sure the idle circuit is operating properly. In order to get it to run like it was in the video, I had to open up the throttle stops pretty far. Once I got it running steady I thought I could adjust the pilot screws, so that I could back those throttle stop screws back off. But I couldn’t get any results by doing that.

My thinking is/ was that backing the pilot screw back out in 1/4 turn increments would richen the mixture , in turn that would cause the engine to speed up.
That would then allow me to back the throttle stop off, to slow the engine back down. Am I thinking right here?
 
Great news.:rock: Getting close.
So then I swapped the plug leads around, and whadya know, left cylinder started hitting. So I pulled the plug wires off and re fitted all the connections. Before , I had simply cut the wires off square and screwed the caps on, this time I tried 5Twins method of splaying the inter wire over the ends, before screwing the connections on.
5Twins method is great. If I understand dual output coils correctly the path is out one tower through the plug wire, through the cap, across the the plug gap, through the head, across the other plug gap, through the cap and wire back to the coil. If it can fire one cylinder it should fire the other. Mysteries of electricity.
Great that you are having progress.:woowoo:
 
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