I think you may have to use a big hammer to get those plungers in the hole on the carbs!

I'm wondering if they missed a step in the factory when they were machining them. Looks like you could chuck them in a small lathe and turn them down to the size of the originals.

If your originals are not usable I have a pair out of the 1978 that don't look bad.

Thanks Ken,
I think my original will probably be ok. I was shooting for a total freshening of my carburetors, that’s why I was going in with all new parts.
I also contacted the eBay seller and he had me take measurements and he’s checking his inventory for a match.
 
IRC there are early and late choke plungers? That float looks suspiciously like a "remanufacture" But not up to tomany's standards.
CruzinImage BS38 carburetor floats -- Review

Yeah I was kinda surprised by that too. I noticed that most carburetor rebuild kits don’t include a choke plunger for my bike, that must be why. It’s 8mm in diameter and the later ones are 10mm.
 
Wow, I haven’t had a chance to get out in the garage for most of the week. Although the weather here is pretty great right now, I’ve been going for morning rides.
So I had some time today to get my swing arm all cleaned up and do a little inspecting.
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Here are all of the pieces out and cleaned up where I can get a good look at them. This is everything but the plastic bushings which have been removed and the old zerk fittings which are going to be replaced. Check it out, I even scored TWO nice clean, unobtainable shims!
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I deliberately photographed the swing arm from the bottom so you could see where the chain had been sawing into the swing arm.
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Next up, I wanted to see if the swing arm parts I already had on hand were going to fit. Everything looks good except for the swing arm bolts themselves.
I had a brand new replacement for my ‘77 but it is too long. The first three model years used a shorter bolt ( narrower swing arm? ) New bolts are available from Mikes but mine still looks like new, so it’s going back in.

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I’ve never installed the bronze bushings, but they sure seem like they are going to go in hard. I know about using a piece of all thread rod to crank them in, it just seems like they are REALLY going to be a tight fit.

I plan on getting some JB weld and filling the notches where the chain sawed the swing arm. Then I will file it smooth, clean and sand and paint the swingarm. So much of what I’m doing these days is just prepping various parts for future re assembly. Nothing too exciting now, but she’s gonna be a beauty!

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Although your early swingarm is shorter, I think it's the same width. I think the mounts in your frame are narrower, that's why the bolt is shorter. You can even see in your pic that the later one piece pivot tube looks to be as long as your swingarm is wide. You will only need to use those shims if the pivot tubes stick out of the bushings too much. Some careful measuring now, before you install the bushings, may tell you that. The usual problem though is just the opposite - the tube doesn't protrude out past the new bushings enough. Sometimes the flanges on the new aftermarket bushings are thicker than the ones on the originals.
 
The usual problem though is just the opposite - the tube doesn't protrude out past the new bushings enough. Sometimes the flanges on the new aftermarket bushings are thicker than the ones on the originals.

I’ve seen that as well, so I was curious about that. I held the old plastic bushing collar up against the bronze , and just eyeballed them. To the naked eye they look identical in thickness.
 
I’ve never installed the bronze bushings, but they sure seem like they are going to go in hard. I know about using a piece of all thread rod to crank them in, it just seems like they are REALLY going to be a tight fit.
They can be a tight fit alright.... I've seen em so tight that they literally "shave" a little bronze off em as they go in. Keep an eye on that. Just before the "hat" section seats, look in the gap and see if there's any shavings in there. If there is, use a pick or sumpin to pull the shavings out. Otherwise the bushing might not seat fully (don't ask me how I know...:rolleyes:).
Also, If you're doing it with allthread, use a couple/3 washers on each end and smear some grease on em. That makes sure you don't chew up the face of the bushing and makes things a "little" easier.
You got this buddy!!
 
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Well this morning I was off to Ace Hardware where I dropped about $50 on bags full of bolts, washers, lock washers, lock nuts, cotter pins, e-clips, ( all in various sizes ) also a piece of all thread and fender washers and nuts for that ( all for installing my swing arm bushings ) and some JB Weld for filling chain grooves in my swing arm and finally a gallon of kerosene which I use for cleaning big greasy parts.

When I got home I mixed up the JB Weld and filled in the groove on my swing arm. It’s out in the garage hardening as I type this.

Then I pulled my rear axle out and broke down my rear brake assembly and cleaned everything up ( in the kerosene ;) ) and put it away. Awaiting future assembly , I already have new shoes for the rear drum.

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Everything I know about these rear brake assemblies, I learned from 5Twins excellent photo intensive write ups.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/650-rear-drum-brake-plates.51046/

There was another post he did that was just about servicing the rear drum, but it eludes me right now. Excellent info in that post as well.

I also plan on polishing up the rear drum housing, but that is for another day. Maybe I could just box up all my polishing and send it to Robin up in Ontario. He’s house bound and bored! :laugh2:

Anyhoo, I’m making progress. One little job at a time!
 
where I dropped about $50

Don't take long does it Bob?

I also plan on polishing up the rear drum housing, but that is for another day. Maybe I could just box up all my polishing and send it to Robin up in Ontario. He’s house bound and bored! :laugh2:

More than happy to do it Bob. But I've come to learn shipping's a bugger!

Looking good buddy, Keep on truckin!

BTW, nice parts layout pic!
 
Maybe I could just box up all my polishing and send it to Robin up in Ontario. He’s house bound and bored! :laugh2:

...couldn’t happen to a nicer guy....

But of course, you’ll have to wait as our London polisher buddy must do my box of stuff first!

:jk:

Pete
 
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I’ve never installed the bronze bushings, but they sure seem like they are going to go in hard.
Bob,
If you put the bronze bushings in the freezer for 48 hours, and then heat up the swingarm with a propane torch real good, and then gets things all set up to install them quickly and efficiently, they will likely go in just fine.
When I froze my bushings for 24 hrs they were reduced in OD by .04 mm

http://www.xs650.com/threads/installing-bronze-swingarm-bushings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/
 
Bob,
If you put the bronze bushings in the freezer for 48 hours, and then heat up the swingarm with a propane torch real good, and then gets things all set up to install them quickly and efficiently, they will likely go in just fine.
When I froze my bushings for 24 hrs they were reduced in OD by .04 mm

http://www.xs650.com/threads/installing-bronze-swingarm-bushings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/

Yup, that’s the way to do it - but you’ve got to be organized and fast because those little parts won’t “hold the cold” for too long.

That’s why it’s called an “interference fit”.

Pete
 
Bob,
If you put the bronze bushings in the freezer for 48 hours, and then heat up the swingarm with a propane torch real good, and then gets things all set up to install them quickly and efficiently, they will likely go in just fine.
When I froze my bushings for 24 hrs they were reduced in OD by .04 mm

http://www.xs650.com/threads/installing-bronze-swingarm-bushings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/

Well that sounds like a plan! I’m also going to go through your excellent article again before tackling this job.
 
I got them low down dirty carburetor blues.”
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Today started out pretty good, but went downhill fast. I decided to quit putting off reassembling my carburetors and get them done and put away. The first thing I did was make a homemade choke assembly gasket because the choke assembly is an early oddball and I’m pretty sure they didn’t even use a gasket on them, but I didn’t want any leaks so I made one, using my new hole punches from Harbor Freight.
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So far so good, I’m having fun! :)
That’s usually when the wheels come off. I’ve already mentioned the choke plunger I bought from NICHE-CYCLE on Ebay for $8.35 , that doesn’t fit! I’m giving them a little ding here because I contacted them and told them so they could correct their ad and they have NOT.
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So, I re installed my original choke plunger and I’m looking around for the rubber cap that goes over the plunger.
I looked everywhere and I thought CRAP! I must’ve lost it.
Then I thought to check my reference photos. I photograph everything prior to disassembly, and what do you know, it was never there. The guy I bought it from had the carburetors off and probably lost it.
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Well....here is my next eBay FAIL. I bought two new Mikuni Z-6 jets from eBay for $16
these are stamped with the Mikuni logo, packaging says from Taiwan.
THEY DO NOT FIT.
Original on the left, eBay replacement on the right.
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Look identical don’t they? Right one will not go in. The factory original unit on the other hand slides right in. Grrrrr! Strike two!
Uh oh, it’s not looking good for the home team.

Up next, I fit my new float valves in no problemo, they are Yamaha original replacements. Yay!
Now my new bowl gaskets, that I got from eBay seller RETRO-MOTORCYCLES, for $14, advertised as Yamaha gaskets.
I thought they were factory items.
E8BD8878-538A-4634-B06F-AE3655C6E5A0.jpeg

STEE RIKE THREE!!! SWING AND A MISS!
41E23068-2F8E-46AB-A50A-798693420FC2.jpeg


Does this look like it fits to you? Trust me it doesn’t!
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I had to do Exacto knife surgery to two brand new gaskets to get them to fit.
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But ok ok , all this has been a pain, but no real deal breakers here. I can work around all this. So I got my floats set.

D387F867-B9DF-4A11-9CCC-4A137B90EBF8.jpeg


Then went to install my fuel bowl and .....wait for it......one of the screw holes is stripped out, and it wasn’t me.
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I didn’t notice this when I took them apart. Was it glued in? Hell I don’t know. And I haven’t decided exactly how to fix this yet. Any ideas?

Until next time,
I’m the guy sitting in the corner, crying in my beer.
 
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