Gary, that won't work on XS2 carbs...
OK fine

Carb Kits
For the 1972-1973 Models. Each kit contains:
a slide needle & clip, 42.5 pilot & 130 main jets, float needle assembly,
air screw with spring, and float bowl
gasket to rebuild (1) OEM Carb.
Order Two.

#CMXS48-1918..... $17.50 each

But those 70-71 kits include the choke plungers.. don' know if they are the same diameter as the 72 plungers..
 
Honestly, a choke plunger is something I've never found the need to replace. As long as the rubber tip isn't all buggered up, I think it will be fine. They all get that ring dimple in them from use, from being pressed down onto the seat inside. A new one would probably look the same after being used for a short time.
 
Been running around all morning, not a lot to show for it. Everywhere I went didn’t carry helicoils that small, a couple places offered to order them for me for much more than it would cost me online. I bought a small bag of various sized machine screws. A couple of them are just long enough to go all the way through without hitting the choke housing.
There are a couple of threads still left, if I added a little blue locktite I could probably nurse it along for a while.
Or I could go with a #8 machine screw, it would be a tight fit, but then I would always have one oddball screw.
Still haven’t decided. Might still go with a proper helicoil. I just hate spending that much.

Gary, I have seen the offerings from 650 Central, if I were smart , that’s the way I would go. He’s a good guy with good prices.
I hate to criticize, it’s just the way you have to do business with him.
I like to shop online, throw things in the virtual shopping cart, make revisions as I go along, then check out with Paypal. I typically do my online shopping at night while sitting in my recliner. I like getting an order confirmation in my email, I like knowing when it ships and getting tracking information. I can’t do any of that with 650 Central and it’s really a shame because it’s the ONLY reason I don’t throw him a lot of my business. Again I think he’s a great guy, I just find his way of doing business inconvenient.
 
On the jet that doesn't fit: How much does it miss by? Are the interior dimensions correct? If so, can it be sanded/turned down a whisker so it will fit?
 
I like to shop online, throw things in the virtual shopping cart, make revisions as I go along, then check out with Paypal. I typically do my online shopping at night while sitting in my recliner. I like getting an order confirmation in my email
Ditto.
Hopefully, Michael will recognize this ever-increasing consumer inclination, and make some changes. Otherwise, I like his business.
 
On the jet that doesn't fit: How much does it miss by? Are the interior dimensions correct? If so, can it be sanded/turned down a whisker so it will fit?

I could probably sand it down enough to fit,
Truthfully my original needle jets were not that bad, so they went back in. I kept the jets I bought just in case at some future point I felt like messing with them.
 
Yeah it took some getting used to but honestly I now find it refreshing. He's kind of like an old time hardware store. Actual customer service. LOL
I emailed him an order this morning haven't heard back yet. But with yet ANOTHER 5-7" of heavy white stuff coming down I'm not too worried.
 
Why are you replacing the Needle Jet????.................Unless a bike has done a lot of miles, (2M has a post showing his worn main-jet), a jet should not be worn. A good clean is all that should be required.............Me thinks your over thinking this and are paying the price for it by trying to replace before knowing there is faults.........
 
Why are you replacing the Needle Jet????.................Unless a bike has done a lot of miles, (2M has a post showing his worn main-jet), a jet should not be worn. A good clean is all that should be required.............Me thinks your over thinking this and are paying the price for it by trying to replace before knowing there is faults.........

I will admit to getting a little carried away on the carburetors. I wanted them to be like brand new carbs. I was hoping to side step what I did on my other bike, which was take them on and off the bike six times chasing problems. I’ll admit to overcompensating on this set.

On a side note, I have decided to find and order a helicoil kit for my stripped out hole. I’m not really happy with any other solution.

I usually get my mains and pilots in 4-packs from one of the "big box" sellers like Chaparrel. You save a couple bucks that way .....

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/product/mikuni-kn102-221-small-round-cv-carb-main-jet/342-1821.aspx

I’ve bought stuff from them before, they’re a good outfit.
 
Yeah it took some getting used to but honestly I now find it refreshing. He's kind of like an old time hardware store. Actual customer service. Lol.

So that’ll be two Mikuni floats.....bowl gaskets....a pound of coffee...and some eggs? I’ll get it right over!
23E62336-E0BE-4066-8A62-50D1B0F9EF57.jpeg


Just funnin’ I really do respect the guy.
 
Yes, that's true, but then you make that tap difficult to use again in normal through holes. The usual routine for a bottoming tap is to start the hole first with a regular tap. Then once a few threads are cut, you switch to the bottoming tap.
Yes that is true, however I don't recall ever seeing a bottoming tap for a Helicoil insert, maybe they do make them but have not seen one personally!

I was trying to suggest a way to allow this blind hole repair to be done.

One thing I know from past experience is if the hole is not aped to the full thread depth for the length of the insert it can cause major problems. You end up with a tapered hole and the insert will lock on the bolt and be very difficult to remove without damage to the casting and or the bolt1
 
Ok, so while my carburetors are stalled out, I went back to my swingarm. I got my swingarm all clamped up in my vice and laid out my all thread, fender washers and nuts and got ready to install my bronze bushings. I will admit to being reluctant to start this job , on BOTH of my bikes because I’ve read some stories of guys really struggling to get things right. Most notably establishing the proper end play clearances.

I would like to say, right now, thanks to Yamadude for writing a very easy to understand and comprehensive article on the subject , with lots of good photographs to help me wrap my lizard brain around this. It was mentioned earlier in this thread but it bears repeating.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/installing-bronze-swingarm-bushings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/

My bronze bushings were smeared with grease, put in a baggie and thrown in the freezer two days ago ( much to my wife’s chagrin) , so today after setting everything up, I began to heat one end of the swingarm.
800A4F61-2201-4A7A-BFB3-BEE59146C1D4.jpeg


Then I ran inside and quickly grabbed one bushing and assembled my all thread and fender washers and began to crank away. I should note that in an effort to make everything glide easier, I greased the all thread, washers, and the inside of the swingarm.
F294BA36-2462-4B1B-B7A8-4FE9CACC3529.jpeg


I had a couple of false starts because the bushing kept trying to get cockeyed and go in crooked, but once I got it started, it just wound right in. After reading Yamadudes post, and seeing that he struggled with trying to do both sides simultaneously, I did this one side at a time. It cranked in actually pretty easy with no problems.
Then I just repeated the process for the other side.
I would also like to thank Jim here for a good tip, he told me that before these bushings seat fully, to check for any bronze shavings getting between the bushing collar and the swing arm and preventing a tight fit. I didn’t see it at first. But I did what Jim recommended and on the second one, it had indeed shaved a little off and it was stuck in the grease and it would’ve done exactly what he warned me of. A quick wipe with a rag , shavings are gone and I finished cranking it home.
Next up was to test fit the pivot tube. It was snug but slid right in. So far so good.
2CBE08AE-DE52-4C8D-8F76-96F0F9E74FA2.jpeg


With the other end pushed up flush, this end protruded just .022 , by re using just one of my two original shims I can close that up to .010 , I’ll take that all day long!

Next up I drilled and tapped for a zerk fitting.
EF9E4B95-FCE0-4D31-BE46-EB9F3095BD12.jpeg
9095B831-52A1-4D79-A730-553E645FC381.jpeg


You can also see , on the left side, where I filled the grooves made by the chain with JB Weld.
So nothing left to do to this except clean it, sand and paint it.
Oh and Jim......the bear ate me on the carburetors, but I got him back on the swingarm baby!
38F7A07D-8107-49B0-B7AE-9C7AA4BD281C.jpeg
 
Ok, so while my carburetors are stalled out, I went back to my swingarm. I got my swingarm all clamped up in my vice and laid out my all thread, fender washers and nuts and got ready to install my bronze bushings. I will admit to being reluctant to start this job , on BOTH of my bikes because I’ve read some stories of guys really struggling to get things right. Most notably establishing the proper end play clearances.

I would like to say, right now, thanks to Yamadude for writing a very easy to understand and comprehensive article on the subject , with lots of good photographs to help me wrap my lizard brain around this. It was mentioned earlier in this thread but it bears repeating.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/installing-bronze-swingarm-bushings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/

My bronze bushings were smeared with grease, put in a baggie and thrown in the freezer two days ago ( much to my wife’s chagrin) , so today after setting everything up, I began to heat one end of the swingarm.
View attachment 116994

Then I ran inside and quickly grabbed one bushing and assembled my all thread and fender washers and began to crank away. I should note that in an effort to make everything glide easier, I greased the all thread, washers, and the inside of the swingarm.
View attachment 116993

I had a couple of false starts because the bushing kept trying to get cockeyed and go in crooked, but once I got it started, it just wound right in. After reading Yamadudes post, and seeing that he struggled with trying to do both sides simultaneously, I did this one side at a time. It cranked in actually pretty easy with no problems.
Then I just repeated the process for the other side.
I would also like to thank Jim here for a good tip, he told me that before these bushings seat fully, to check for any bronze shavings getting between the bushing collar and the swing arm and preventing a tight fit. I didn’t see it at first. But I did what Jim recommended and on the second one, it had indeed shaved a little off and it was stuck in the grease and it would’ve done exactly what he warned me of. A quick wipe with a rag , shavings are gone and I finished cranking it home.
Next up was to test fit the pivot tube. It was snug but slid right in. So far so good. View attachment 116995

With the other end pushed up flush, this end protruded just .022 , by re using just one of my two original shims I can close that up to .010 , I’ll take that all day long!

Next up I drilled and tapped for a zerk fitting.
View attachment 116996 View attachment 116997

You can also see , on the left side, where I filled the grooves made by the chain with JB Weld.
So nothing left to do to this except clean it, sand and paint it.
Oh and Jim......the bear ate me on the carburetors, but I got him back on the swingarm baby!
View attachment 116998
Nice job, Bob !
 
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