....or maybe some shag carpet?
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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Wait....what did I miss? You did all that engine cleaning and polishing, and now you're going to cover all that work with paint?
If you had to put something over it, couldn't you clear coat? Or isn't there such a thing as a high-temp clear?
I’m not going to paint the bare aluminum, just the center part of the case that is already painted silver, a yellowing silver.....
Is it just the top (half) of the case that's painted? Because the bottom of the case looks real shiny, and not yellowed at all... "The Basketcase" is so barnacle encrusted (corroded, from years of holding up a shed) I have to disassemble the engine and soda blast it just to make sure it's actually aluminum.... 
The el cheapo HVLP guns HF has actually do a fair job.
Amazon has this one for 40 bucks. 4 and a half stars....
Amazon has this one for 40 bucks. 4 and a half stars....
Thanks Jim, there’s certainly no arguing about how nice yours came out!
Is it just the top (half) of the case that's painted? Because the bottom of the case looks real shiny, and not yellowed at all... "The Basketcase" is so barnacle encrusted (corroded, from years of holding up a shed) I have to disassemble the engine and soda blast it just to make sure it's actually aluminum....
Yes exactly. Just the top half is painted. Mine was dirty but not corroded. It’s amazing how nice the aluminum parts can be brought back on these old bikes.
.... and it'd be a LOT easier paintin' your frame and such.....
..... and I'm quiet certain this won't be your last project...
..... and I'm quiet certain this won't be your last project...
Now all you need to do Bob is build a frame rotisserie...........Jim has the plans ya know.
So today I replaced all the seals under my left side cover. I did comprehensive write ups in the Garage section so I won’t re write it all here but I wanted to include some cross references here.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-one-the-shifter-seal.52589/#post-556676
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-2-clutch-push-rod-seal.52590/#post-556659
http://www.xs650.com/threads/engine...shaft-seal-driveshaft-seal.52591/#post-556675
The seals are all in! With the exception of the starter seal which I will install when I replace the starter.
Stick a fork in this job cause it’s DONE!
MAILMAN OUT !
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-one-the-shifter-seal.52589/#post-556676
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-2-clutch-push-rod-seal.52590/#post-556659
http://www.xs650.com/threads/engine...shaft-seal-driveshaft-seal.52591/#post-556675
The seals are all in! With the exception of the starter seal which I will install when I replace the starter.
Stick a fork in this job cause it’s DONE!
MAILMAN OUT !
jones5944
XS650 Enthusiast
Hi Mailman: I have enjoyed following your journey!!! I do have a question though. After going through all the work on the upper end (and the rest of the bike) why have you decided not to break the cases and check the transmission and main bearings and do the final cleaning inside where all the action takes place? Just a question and not a criticism. Keep up the great work and I hope it turns out as good as you want it to. David
David,
Hello! I hope you are doing well. I’m delighted to know you have been following along! Haha! You among others have asked me that question. My reasons for better or worse are.
1. My bike to the best of my knowledge is a very low mileage unit, around 5,000 miles. What I’ve seen for the most part would bear that out, so I’m proceeding with the assumption ( and you know what they say about those
) that things below deck have not been badly worn. All of the gears that I have seen , both inside the clutch side cover and looking up into the crankshaft portion of the case , look perfect. 2. Splitting the cases opens up a whole lot of seams and the potential to introduce new leaks. It is a laborious process and difficult to do without a proper engine stand, because from what I’ve seen, best way to re assemble a split case is on a stand with the motor inverted.
3. There has so far been very minimal sludgy looking sediment in the various compartments I’ve opened up. My plan is to do several short mileage oil changes once I get it running until the oil is coming out clean.
Thanks for your interest in my restoration.
Bob
PS, for those who don’t know Mr. Jones, he is the man who created the seat foam for my seat rebuild. He also has done some beautiful restorations.
. . . . . until the NEXT one!!! Bwaaahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!
Today I spent a lot of time on the left side cover. ( No....no polishing YET ! ). I was cleaning all the crud from the inside of the cover and scraping the gasket off. I then took the clutch worm screw apart and cleaned it up really good and packed it with red grease before re installing it. I also took the time to work the edges of the cover with a file. The factory had done really rough grinding work to remove casting flash. The edges of the cover just looked really unfinished so I smoothed it all up. I then put the cover back on and flipped the motor over.
COMING SOON
ADVENTURES IN CLUTCH LAND
I pulled the right cover off in preparation for cleaning and inspection.
I want to pull everything apart, clean everything and really inspect the parts. I bought a complete clutch assembly off of a 75 ( I believe) from Daniel Black, it’s the newer style, and I bought the whole package front to back, including a later model clutch worm screw assembly.
I have to say though, part of me would like to put it back all original and ride it for a while before upgrading it , just to see how the two systems compare.
I also just took a peek at the starter gear. That sure is a skinny looking spring around that gear compared with the later upgraded model. I will get everything out where I can look at it before ordering any parts.
Also while I’m in here, I will replace the tach drive o ring and seal and replace the kick start seal. Does anyone know if that bushing for the kick starter comes out of the case easily? It would make it easier to replace the seal.
That’s all for now. I’m uncertain how much I’ll be out in the garage in the next few days, check out our high temps for the upcoming week. This is where you guys in snow country get back at me for all the riding I was doing last winter when you were snowed in!
See you later, if I don’t melt!
Bob
COMING SOON
ADVENTURES IN CLUTCH LAND
I pulled the right cover off in preparation for cleaning and inspection.
I want to pull everything apart, clean everything and really inspect the parts. I bought a complete clutch assembly off of a 75 ( I believe) from Daniel Black, it’s the newer style, and I bought the whole package front to back, including a later model clutch worm screw assembly.
I have to say though, part of me would like to put it back all original and ride it for a while before upgrading it , just to see how the two systems compare.
I also just took a peek at the starter gear. That sure is a skinny looking spring around that gear compared with the later upgraded model. I will get everything out where I can look at it before ordering any parts.
Also while I’m in here, I will replace the tach drive o ring and seal and replace the kick start seal. Does anyone know if that bushing for the kick starter comes out of the case easily? It would make it easier to replace the seal.
That’s all for now. I’m uncertain how much I’ll be out in the garage in the next few days, check out our high temps for the upcoming week. This is where you guys in snow country get back at me for all the riding I was doing last winter when you were snowed in!
See you later, if I don’t melt!
Bob
Bob,
a 3/16 or 1/4" punch works good even with the bushing in. Angle it across the bushing and work your way around it. It helps to take an exacto knife and cut the lip out first.
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I don't think that kick shaft bushing comes out of the cover very easily, I'd just let it be. The kick seal pops out pretty easy though using that seal removal tool you have. With no shaft in the way, it easy to get the tool hooked under it. Just take care you don't go into it too deep or you'll gouge up the hole in the case.
Yes, I would try your clutch as is, as long as all the parts are OK. It's got some funky ones in it though, lol. There are rubber damper rings between the plates. Hopefully they're still good because I don't think you can get them anymore. Also, I'm pretty sure the friction plates differ. See those 2 in the middle of the stack in your pic, the ones with different colored edges? I think those are aluminum based, not steel based like the other frictions.
Yes, I would try your clutch as is, as long as all the parts are OK. It's got some funky ones in it though, lol. There are rubber damper rings between the plates. Hopefully they're still good because I don't think you can get them anymore. Also, I'm pretty sure the friction plates differ. See those 2 in the middle of the stack in your pic, the ones with different colored edges? I think those are aluminum based, not steel based like the other frictions.
Ahh, I can do that. Thanks!
Oh yeah! I had already forgotten about those weird rubber rings. I remembered getting the other basket because it has a beefier design. But I forgot about those rubber bits. Oh well , I’ll see what everything looks like when I get it apart. And yeah, that seal won’t be a big deal, I’ll just be careful with it.
Bob, toss those clutch o-rings. They're meant to assist with plate spreading. By now, they're hard, noncompliant, and below functional thickness.
Speaking of casting flash:
(Post #200)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-10#post-459480
(Post #11)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/heavy-clutch-pull.51799/#post-545143
Speaking of casting flash:
(Post #200)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-10#post-459480
(Post #11)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/heavy-clutch-pull.51799/#post-545143
