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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mailman, Mar 1, 2018.

  1. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Yeah you’re right. I had forgotten, before I pulled the motor, I had removed that long bottom bolt first for exactly that reason. It’s funny I have that very image printed out and laying on my workbench.
     
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  2. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    One more thing - don't forget the anti-seize. Coat not only the threaded ends but the entire lengths of the bolts. That will keep sections that pass through the frame and engine from corroding.
     
    geedubya, Wulfbyte, Superjet and 2 others like this.
  3. MaxPete

    MaxPete Lucille, Betty, Demi & Gretel: I ask, THEY decide. XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor


    Looks good Mailman - but there is still a wrinkle in that towel.....;)
     
  4. Downeaster

    Downeaster Everything in XS Top Contributor

    The Horror! Think of the Children, Mailman, Think of the Children! :geek:
     
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  5. MaxPete

    MaxPete Lucille, Betty, Demi & Gretel: I ask, THEY decide. XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Indeed - shocking, absolutely shocking I say!
     
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  6. kshansen

    kshansen XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    This is for Mailman but maybe someone else knows.

    Mailman's fork lock got melted during the powder coat treatment.

    I have a 1972 frame with a fork lock in it but as of yet have not located the key for it, not even sure if I ever had one.

    What I was really wondering was do I need the key to be able to get the lock out of the frame? I did remove the swing cover and rivet. The lock seems free in the frame, as it will move in and out maybe 1/16 of an inch. But as I have never seen one out of the frame I don't know if there is something holding it in place that needs the key inserted to let it move out of the way and let the lock move out of frame.

    Well I went back several posts and looked at the pictures posted of the lock and it does look like it should come out without the key so I'm a bit stumped as to why this one is not moving more that the little bit it moves. I was hoping that if I could get it out there might be a chance Mailman could make it work with his key. I know on the seat lock for my `78 I managed to swap parts around to get a lock with a different code to work with my original key. Not sure if the number stamped on this lock "406" is the key code or not.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2019
    Wulfbyte and Jim like this.
  7. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Well the engine installation could not have been easier! This really was an instance where planning made all the difference. I spent an inordinate amount of time figuring out the logistics of this.

    So, my new chain hoist worked Superbly! It took no effort at all to lift the motor from the bench, then we just scooted the bench back to the wall and out of the way.
    7CA4A3B1-11DD-457B-9DE9-7826F271D373.jpeg

    Put down a folded up moving blanket and just gently set the motor down and laid out all the hardware.
    6AD94818-7B68-4B6F-B529-71E3FA0624DF.jpeg

    Got the frame ready to go
    42C7FEBE-68FA-4775-ADEB-0DC3D4859506.jpeg

    Set the frame over the motor and threw the mounts and hardware on.
    D530181E-028C-48F2-8FF2-0A64D75213FF.jpeg

    Then used one of my new lifting straps to place the whole assembly up and on the bike jack.
    2C95FF03-A662-4103-8B93-D2F333C75578.jpeg
    2B9DFB5D-DF9C-46A8-8B6C-78C3F27DA38C.jpeg

    All strapped down and now I can work on it at my leisure, and it can easily be rolled around the garage on my jack.
    3F947143-D5D9-4E3A-B9D0-0AFEC0F653F7.jpeg

    I just could not be more pleased with how well this went. Every one has their own method for doing this, and I drew from other members experience. Honestly Daniel and I spent more time catching up and just enjoying hanging out than working. Seriously though, anybody thinking about his job, that chain hoist is worth its weight in gold!
    I’m really looking foward to starting the reassembly process.
    Till next time!
    Bob
    0C90E7E9-AA64-4482-BB77-E17FD33CD6E3.jpeg
     
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  8. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Hey Ken,
    5 Twins wrote about that in post #1629 of this thread

    http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-82

    He said the key has to be inserted and turned to the open position and it will slide right out.
     
    geedubya likes this.
  9. kshansen

    kshansen XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I saw that and I guess I'm not understanding what "the open position" means. Are there more than two positions? I was thinking that "open" meant the unlock column position and the "closed or locked" position would be with the lock pushed in to engage the steering stem and "lock" the steering.

    Hate to sound too dumb but as I have never had a XS650 with this type of lock I'm not familiar with how a "normal" one works.
     
    gggGary likes this.
  10. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Honestly I never even tried it out. Ive never used the one on my other bike either! :laugh2:
     
    gggGary and Jim like this.
  11. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Sometimes "anti-climatic" is a good thing.... ;)
     
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  12. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    "Open" means unlocked, so yes, you need a key or you have to "pick" the lock so it "opens". Then the lock assembly should slide right out of the neck. The assembly is a 2 part affair. It consists of the actual lock cylinder slid inside a tube of sorts. A roll pin driven into the lock cylinder through a slot in the tube retains it in the tube and also holds the assembly in the neck when in the "locked" position. Here you can see the roll pin removed and the lock cylinder pulled out of the "tube" .....

    [​IMG]

    Here's one assembled and in the "locked" position. Note how the roll pin doesn't align with the raised boss on the outer tube .....

    [​IMG]

    When like this, the roll pin locks into one of two slots machined into the sides of the hole in the neck and that holds the lock assembly in. Here's that neck area split open. You can see the 2 slots perpendicular to the hole for the lock assembly .....

    [​IMG]

    Here's a lock assembly in the "open" or unlocked position. The roll pin rotates so it is in line with the raised boss on the outer tube. Then the assembly will slide right out .....

    [​IMG]
     
  13. kshansen

    kshansen XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    So from looking at the second picture I'm needing to try turning the tumbler counter-clockwise to get the roll pin lined up to remove it.

    I may try playing thief and see if I can pick the lock. Bet it's not as easy as they make it look on all those TV shows!

    That is unless I stumble on the key, looked quick but do not seem to have the ignition switch for the bike the frame was part of.

    Well guess I need to keep looking as you can see in the picture below the key was in the ignition when I got this sorry looking bike!
    key switch.png

    PS: anyone need some slightly used gauges?
     
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  14. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Yes, the lock needs to be turned counterclockwise to open it. It won't rotate a whole lot, not even a quarter turn. In the "locked" position, the key slot is probably about horizontal, pointing at 3 and 9 o'clock. "Open" will only move it to 1 or 2 o'clock. Looking at it in the "locked" position, the sliding plates, or "wafers" as they're called, will need to be pushed or slid to the left.
     
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  15. Wulfbyte

    Wulfbyte XS650 Addict

    Very nice mailman!
     
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  16. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Another suggestion I'm going to make is that you re-check the head bolt torque now before you put the top motor mount and carbs back on. Those new gaskets may have compressed some now that the motor has been sitting assembled for a few weeks.
     
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  17. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Roger that! Will do!
     
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  18. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    Haha! I know, the first thing I said to Daniel was “ Ok, let’s see if we can pull the ceiling down.” Fortunately that’s not what happened.
    I’m sitting at breakfast with my wife , but all I can think about is getting out in that garage!
    :D
     
  19. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Things will progress and the excitement will build quickly now. All the hard stuff, the cleaning, rebuilding, polishing, painting, is done. Nothing left to do but the careful re-assembly. I get excited during this part too, lol.
     
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  20. Mailman

    Mailman Hardly a Guru Top Contributor

    I really need to get an organized plan of attack on the rest of this build.
    13C8FEC7-C098-483D-AF6D-807002FDF9C8.jpeg
    I wanted to install my steering head today, but before I started that , I wanted to install a zerk fitting on the side of the neck.
    A44AC863-32AC-4CF4-8B2D-6BDE5218116C.jpeg 7597AE62-2244-4665-8532-3D55BD489779.jpeg F73DDD67-7B41-4EEB-B3FE-CF191CB937E4.jpeg 6C03B4E5-C368-4638-BBDE-95C090555AED.jpeg

    Then I went to install my new tapered steering head bearings.
    B5B251B5-1E1C-47C1-A0E1-DA664B15501D.jpeg

    This is where I ran into my first delay of the day. You may recall when I was prepping my frame for powder coat, I commented that the top of the steering neck looked like someone had gone around the top of the neck with a small hammer, I couldn’t figure it out and 2M suggested that the Dreaded Previous Owner May have let the steering stem get loose and the dust cup on top hammered around when the bike went over bumps.
    B982B17A-777A-4BE4-A4F9-E3089206B1B7.jpeg

    I think he was probably right about that. When I went to install the races, the bottom had to be tapped in with a hammer, but the top, I could just drop it in and spin it around with my fingers. Not super loose, but not a nice tight fit. I decided to apply a liberal coat of red locktite around the race and then clamp it in there for a few hours to set up.
    D0E04BF6-72A7-461F-9B14-C5A06F5C19E9.jpeg

    Periodically I went over and hit the steering head with my new heat gun to warm things up and expedite the curing.
    After a few hours I installed the steering head.
    216AC21B-C0EA-453E-B124-9D94977EC665.jpeg

    These early steering heads are odd ducks. Lots of pieces , overly complicated and frankly I’m a little unsure about the proper procedure for tightening this whole thing up. First you have what you see above, just the bottom tree, the bearings, a dust cover and that collared nut with the notches.

    Then this goes on. The top tree, that has a pinch bolt to grab onto the collared nut, then on top of the tree, goes a thick washers a tension spring and another nut.
    1F674B30-AF86-4184-B7AA-295E361F71F4.jpeg 655FFD28-A5B5-4309-AE73-DDEA02120F43.jpeg 3BF8A2A8-87B0-4374-A6F9-A3A33F522FFB.jpeg

    Then , thru all of that, the long rod of the steering damper and it’s associated hardware.
    BF3572A9-E900-4BCE-B04D-DA9FACE70580.jpeg
    DC1E9C08-FE64-46AA-8BD8-1191858BF2BB.jpeg

    I mean...phew! That’s a lot of parts! And a little confusing as to the tightening procedure. There are a lot of components that tighten up. Once you put the top tree on, you kinda cover up that notched steering stem nut.
    So how tight should that be before you put the top nut on, because you can then add additional friction with the steering damper. The later steering heads were much simpler!
     

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