Looking very nice!

...and I would guess that those ears would look fine to the folks in NZ and Aus....;)

Maybe I should just move down there! I’ve always thought that was a pretty great part of the world!

Bob, it's only a mistake if you don't catch it. ;) Looking good bud!

Thanks Jim , “The things I didn’t know at first, I learned by doing twice.” :D
It’s all good, I turn my music on and get lost in the process. There’s a whole lot of worse ways to pass the day.
 
FBE551D2-1871-4575-9850-5C388E763E93.jpeg

Been waiting for this a long tim Bob!!! Your tenacity is really paying off!!!
 
Funny, I saw those ears then looked at your bike in the background and knew what you did. :laugh:. Thanks for the paint info. I know its in this thread somewhere but the darn thing is 90 pages. This has got to be close to a record post. I vote it the most interesting post on the 650 forum.

By the way that 77 is such a lovely bike.
 
WELL THIS WAS FUN !!!

Today I set up shop, broke out containers of clean hardware , sorted in bags by application, containers of clean brackets, my iPad full of reference photos, and went to town.
The steering head is all assembled, the forks have been installed and still need fork oil in them.
The rear swingarm is installed. I had spent a lot of time getting things right on that swingarm and it fits like a glove,
I’m very happy with it, I even reused the unobtanium shim that I found when I took it apart.
And I’ve got the shocks back on, I’ll try them out when I get this bike on the road, and maybe trade them for some Hagons later. Anyways here are the pics.
View attachment 132753 View attachment 132754 View attachment 132755 View attachment 132756 View attachment 132757 View attachment 132758 View attachment 132759 View attachment 132760

It’s starting to look like a motorcycle again! It sure is nice just reaching for clean, rebuilt , ready to go parts.
I do still have a few things that haven’t even been cleaned yet, but not much. I should have a roller very soon!
Later,
Bob


Robert,

You have yourself a potential calendar girl there.

Geedub
 
Sorry GW, I took a double dose of my "smart-@ss" medication yesterday. ;)

Besides - you guys have great weather while up-northers like me, Lakeview, Canuck, Gary and soooo many others have...well, lets not talk about the weather.

dammit.

P
 
Well this morning I did a lot of chasing my tail , out looking for fork oil. First I went to Cycle Gear, but the heaviest they had was 20 weight, too light for my needs. So then I thought I’d follow 2M and get some cheap 20-50 car oil , so I went to Walmart. Nothing except premium motor oil available in that weight. So I settled on this, 30 weight , which is what my manual calls for.
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I added just a smidge over what the manual calls for.
111D9B6A-7A4D-4FED-8D03-38288EDA6A55.jpeg

Then I buttoned these forks all up. Notice that the headlight ears have been repositioned.
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After that, I knew that I wanted to get my battery box installed early on, because it is such a bear to wrestle in from the side. Coming in through the back, when there is nothing there was easy peasy!
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I HAD THE RIGHT EARS IN THE WRONG PLACE.....
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My front brake disc bearing conundrum......

Long ago I ordered replacement bearings for my front disc. From Partzilla, this is the number they show for my bike and it’s the same number on the bearings they sent me.
9487BA3F-542F-44EB-81B6-DFAAE277C1F9.jpeg

1D5290A7-9060-4612-9CFB-37589776A702.jpeg
I dug them out today and even though the number on the box is correct, they are clearly not the same size as the ones currently in my disc.
Now here is my Yamaha parts manual.
F0FB2BDF-82E7-405C-ADCD-8A8F66ADD94F.jpeg A5577B97-BDDE-445F-B35F-06367D1918B3.jpeg

Different number, close, but no cigar.

Lastly, I can see the number on my bearing
D3608F97-AC55-4952-83EB-101AD402A8E8.jpeg


And if I google Koyo and that number I can find it for sale.

https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-16005-KOYO.php

So what I’m trying to figure out , is if I order that bearing just by that number, would it be correct for my application.

I would just grease and reuse the bearings that are currently in my disc, but one of them feels crunchy when you rotate it.

Signed,
Confused in Arizona
 
Hi Mailman:

Bearings from the same mfr using the name designator number SHOULD be the same. There are about five key characteristics that define a given bearing:
  • Outer race OD;
  • Inner race ID;
  • Balls caged / not caged (the balls in that photo are caged);
  • Width axially (how much of the shaft will the bearing cover when the shaft is inside the bearing?);
  • Seal / no seal etc. (the photo shows no seal);
As long as all of that matches up - you should be fine.

Pete
 
The Koyo bearing on 123 bearings should be the same thing. Just to feel better can you check the measurements given at that site against the bearing in your disc?

Ball bearings are somewhat standard parts unless they are used in very special application like extreme high speed. Those often will have a code number besides the basic number that would indicated special clearances or higher than normal precision on the bearing. I have my doubts that any of those consideration apply to your application.

Now if you are planing on setting a land speed record on two wheels or if you were restoring a SR-71 Blackbird I might suggest something else!
 
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Dear Confused,
Long ago, someone once told me "...When in doubt, the book prevails..." If that's what it says, I'd go with it. Whadya got to lose? Ya already bought the wrong part, right? Compared to what you've got into this (clearly) museum restoration (EAT YER HEART OUT, SMITHSONIAN!!!), bearings is cheap... :twocents:
 
Haha! Well thanks guys, I appreciate all the input, I’ve been scouting around and that size bearing is available at lots of outlets. I think I’ll go ahead and knock those bearings out and take some good measurements, I’m beginning to feel confident I can find replacements.

Kinda like how those ears looked the first way you had em. :laughing:

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Bob, the parts pics aren't clear on this, and I'm not sure of the XS2.
But on the XS1s, the round can flasher relay mounts to the bottom of the battery box by way of a round clamp. The flasher body needs to be grounded thru the round clamp, to the battery box. Which requires that the battery box be grounded...
 
Have you looked at the bearing you got from Partzilla and checked for a number stamped on it's side? Maybe it's the same, or a variation, like with rubber seals instead of open? That new part number could represent an upgraded, maybe sealed bearing. They did that with wheel bearings over the years. Some early ones were open, some had metal shields. Eventually they changed to the 2 rubber seal types (2RS).
 
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