Yeah, looking at the early diagrams.... looks like the flasher is just a power interrupt relay. It's fed from main pwr and passes that on (interrupted) to the turn signal switch. No gnd needed.
 
Yeah, looking at the early diagrams.... looks like the flasher is just a power interrupt relay. It's fed from main pwr and passes that on (interrupted) to the turn signal switch. No gnd needed.

And there you go! A reasonable explanation, Thanks Jim!
 
Bob, thanx for the rear fender pic, showing the mount shelf for the flasher. Digging into the parts lists does indeed show a difference:
70-71 XS1/XS1B "256" rear fender without mount shelf
72-73 XS2/TX650 "306" rear fender with flasher mount shelf.

Screwball stuff. Reminds me of the XS2/TX650 front brake switch.

This snippet from the early service manual shows a ground connection thru the case body.
70-72-FlasherRelay01.jpg


Whenever I cycle my XS1B's ignition switch, I can hear the flasher relay *click* into/out of preset. Goofy thing, all the period Hondas used just the simple square 2-wire thermal relay.

Now, the parts lists *do* show a flasher relay part number difference between the 70-71 version and the 72 version, prefix 173 vs 278.
70-72-FlasherRelay02.jpg


Dunno, guyz. Maybe the 72-on flasher relays don't need to be grounded....?
 
Last edited:
Your reassembly project is progressing quite well. This should be the definitive goto thread for any and all XS2 projects.

Ggggary's rear fender mount thread may be of interest. Addressing the common problem of the fender's center mount hole getting wallered-out.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/early-70-73-rear-fender-mounting-issues.31914/

I recall using a large rubber grommet and fender washer to bolster the center support...
 
Last edited:
Yes. A light is shining. I always knew it was the flasher relay, making that “ boingclick” noise when I turned on the ignition. Knowing why it makes the “boingclick” noise is very satisfying. I always imagined the relay being a simple bimetallic type. Thanks for the info, again.
 
TODAY WAS A GOOD DAY. :)

The first thing I did was break out my rear wheel and brake hub, along with the axle assembly.
8A81ED3D-C0AF-4FE1-88EB-E2904EF4CCCD.jpeg


I got all my spacers in place and greased up the axle and pushed it through.
6E2C07A7-09E4-423E-94C8-F1D6F7730CBB.jpeg
B5A54377-D0C5-4FF7-87DB-9460648F35D3.jpeg


Then I installed the brake stay arm.
578E791B-838F-435F-94A7-153D75F30562.jpeg

5F52CFF0-6C0B-482F-A4E0-BBD5B7F0A270.jpeg


From there I moved to the front end. I wanted to mount my new handlebars up. I laid everything out, I wanted to photograph it. The pieces are somewhat different looking than what is shown in my parts manual.

C9E04572-5B67-4C71-82B5-1966D810D1A4.jpeg
97FCA6A3-E1EE-455E-BD78-5A679BA8F2E1.jpeg

F03BD6CB-9100-48F7-BF69-2E9443F7B0D2.jpeg


I’m leaving the cotter keys out for now because I might have to take them back off again.
EB30EDEC-F4AC-472A-9C2C-5EF1E8850274.jpeg


AND NOW....DRUMROLL PLEASE.........

Three Hundred and Nine days after pulling the wheels off and stripping the bike down. I HAVE A ROLLER BABY!
880D3784-DB7E-462E-BC0F-5E501AF65C05.jpeg
561F7BF4-7D67-42A0-82D5-BC0EBBB78F18.jpeg
160E637B-EB3F-409F-AD3A-2A8DA46EA225.jpeg
2896DDF4-719B-47C2-9131-1AAA60898B2F.jpeg


I’m starting to get excited, it’s really starting to look like a bike again. And also if I’m being completely honest , a little apprehensive, because soon, I’m going to have to iron all the details out and make this thing run good. I still have much to do and now we’re getting down to the time consuming detail work.
I’ll be back!
Bob
 
It's a Beautiful bike ! Your persistence is paying off well.
Such a fine experience it is to know you and watch all this. Thanks Bob
Now get that tank on there ;)

Thanks Randy! But that tank will have to wait. Lots to do yet. Carbs, ignition, exhaust, intake, instruments and controls and oh my God, the wiring! And don’t get me started on the headlight bucket!
Just look at what was there before. The handlebar controls and instruments have WAY more wires and cables than my ‘77.
3CC9BA27-8D45-4764-BD44-F65CDEF2F596.jpeg
B3038276-44BC-4B20-A819-01C5B9D698C4.jpeg
366C2FCA-D1C7-4CBE-98A3-20C2BCD38F80.jpeg
 
[QUOTEYou had a lot of those little brackets chromed if I remember right yes? You set the bar pretty high![/QUOTE]

Yes I did crome all of the brackets for the fender and the batt box
 
Bob, looking really good.

... I moved to the front end. I wanted to mount my new handlebars up. I laid everything out, I wanted to photograph it. The pieces are somewhat different looking than what is shown in my parts manual...

Yes, the factory parts manuals show the older XS1 conical riser bushings. Mid '71 models got the change to the upper crown (triple) using straight-walled splined rubber bushings. Here's the bulletin, but they didn't include any pics.
71-12-20_P320-08_PartsChanges-HandleBarFittings.jpg

The handlebar riser parts in your pic are correct for the XS2.

You probably already have these XS2 specific publications, but putting them in here for other interested folks.

1972 XS2 dealer's Assembly Manual.
1972 XS2 Supplementary Manual.
 

Attachments

  • xs2-assembly-manual.pdf
    3.3 MB · Views: 139
  • xs2-supplementary-manual.pdf
    2.1 MB · Views: 160
A tip, or nitpick.
Note the serpentine routing of the speedometer cable, trying to wrap around the clearance notch backside of the headlight shell, in this excerpt from the service section of the early owner's manual.
XS1-XS2-SpeedoCableRouting.jpg


NOT my idea of healthy for the cable.

This will occur if the speedometer cable is fitted into the hold down clip on the lower bracket (bottom triple tree clamp). (Shown bent outward on your previous assembly pic).
XS2-SpeedoCableClip.jpg


On my XS1B, I've routed the speedometer cable behind that hold down clip, against the bottom bracket (lower triple), removing most of the serpentine routing...
 
Back
Top