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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
G'day Bob,
Greetings from Gondwanaland .
I fitted one of these, made by a German bloke who makes all kinds of funky bike stuff, found him on E bay.
Calls himself:- der-muede
CHAIN GUIDE PROTECTOR SHIFT PEDAL SHAFT XS 650 REPLACES OBSOLETE N°: 447-17467-02
Greetings from Gondwanaland .
I fitted one of these, made by a German bloke who makes all kinds of funky bike stuff, found him on E bay.
Calls himself:- der-muede
CHAIN GUIDE PROTECTOR SHIFT PEDAL SHAFT XS 650 REPLACES OBSOLETE N°: 447-17467-02
I did a search for this on eBay but was unable to find it. Hmmm....
You need a way to trap the alternator wire loom under the shift shaft to keep it away from the chain and sprocket, which the original guard does with it's lower mounting tab. That custom tube guard wouldn't do that. The XS500 used something similar .....
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1975/xs500b/shifter-2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Yamah...:--YAAOSwtfhYphB8:sc:USPSPriority!14075!US!-1
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1975/xs500b/shifter-2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Yamah...:--YAAOSwtfhYphB8:sc:USPSPriority!14075!US!-1
All I could find was this one Bob.
https://www.heidentuning.com/xs650-...ive-chain/shift-shaft-chain-guide-detail.html
https://www.heidentuning.com/xs650-...ive-chain/shift-shaft-chain-guide-detail.html
You guys give any thought to just bonding a strip of rubber back on with some RTV?
That would certainly be even easier than riveting a piece of UHMW plastic on Jim.
I’ve been thinking about several ways to go with this. I’ve thought about just building the whole top up with JB Weld , until it was maybe 3/16” thick and then leveling it. I also thought I have the original front cam chain guide ( and one from Mikes ) that I thought about robbing the strip from and epoxying it on top. If I did that I would have to probably trim up a couple pieces and lay them sided by side to cover that plate.
Also, initially I had intended to keep my original cam chain since my bike had such a low indicated original mileage.
It was an effort to try and control costs, but that ship has sailed, Haha! I’m deep into this thing now and leaving a wear item in place when everything else is being replaced has been nagging at me. I’m also uncertain about the authenticity of the stated mileage. Most things on this bike look to have very little wear, then I’ll come across something that doesn’t make sense. Like all that red RTV silicone that was rather carelessly applied to my rocker cover. That would seem to indicate that the motor had been out at some point.
Anyways, I decided that trying to save money by keeping the original cam chain was false economy, so I have ordered a new one. I already had a chain riveting tool, so why not?
It was an effort to try and control costs, but that ship has sailed, Haha! I’m deep into this thing now and leaving a wear item in place when everything else is being replaced has been nagging at me. I’m also uncertain about the authenticity of the stated mileage. Most things on this bike look to have very little wear, then I’ll come across something that doesn’t make sense. Like all that red RTV silicone that was rather carelessly applied to my rocker cover. That would seem to indicate that the motor had been out at some point.
Anyways, I decided that trying to save money by keeping the original cam chain was false economy, so I have ordered a new one. I already had a chain riveting tool, so why not?
I just consider a cam chain part of the cost of doing business when it comes to topend work. It's mostly because I usually don't have a clue about the history of the current one, how it was cared for, how often it got adjusted, etc. After that, if I had to go back into that motor after say 10 or 20K, I probably wouldn't replace the chain because I was familiar with it's history and the care it was given. They can last many 10's of thousands of miles if treated right but unfortunately, most weren't.
You really didn't run the bike at all so the timing plate running out of adjustment range as a stretched chain indicator probably isn't known to you. That's a big thing I watch for on points models. On the T.C.I. models, a stretched chain doesn't affect the ignition because it's crank driven. One of the few things you can watch for on them is the cam chain adjuster needing to be screwed way, way in. A type E adjuster I recently got off eBay came this way. The cap and lock nut were still tight so I assume it was just pulled from the motor as it had been adjusted and in use. There was barely enough threads left showing on the adjuster screw to put the cap nut on. The chain in that bike must have really been toast, lol.
You really didn't run the bike at all so the timing plate running out of adjustment range as a stretched chain indicator probably isn't known to you. That's a big thing I watch for on points models. On the T.C.I. models, a stretched chain doesn't affect the ignition because it's crank driven. One of the few things you can watch for on them is the cam chain adjuster needing to be screwed way, way in. A type E adjuster I recently got off eBay came this way. The cap and lock nut were still tight so I assume it was just pulled from the motor as it had been adjusted and in use. There was barely enough threads left showing on the adjuster screw to put the cap nut on. The chain in that bike must have really been toast, lol.
Today I got started trying to get some of the crud removed from the outside of the engine case. I’m making progress as well as a hell of a mess. So, I’m starting to see some daylight here. A long way to go yet, but progress.
What I’m wondering, I bought an Athena gasket kit and a complete seal kit. I’m thinking I should have a new seal for the starter motor in there somewhere, so I want to pull the starter off to clean and re seal. Should the starter be opened up to check the condition of the armature and brushes? At the very least I need to paint it, don’t want Jim to have a prettier starter than me!
What I’m wondering, I bought an Athena gasket kit and a complete seal kit. I’m thinking I should have a new seal for the starter motor in there somewhere, so I want to pull the starter off to clean and re seal. Should the starter be opened up to check the condition of the armature and brushes? At the very least I need to paint it, don’t want Jim to have a prettier starter than me!
At the very least I need to paint it, don’t want Jim to have a prettier starter than me!
All laughing aside..... if it were me I'd have a look. Most likely everything's OK, but you have the seal and It'd be easier to change with it apart. I'd suggest PB Blasting (or whatever you use) the tie screws for a day or so. Mine were stuck solid.
The shaft seal was included in my Athena kit.
Just an FYI on the shiftshaft shield. Mine is also missing the rubber slipper, and shows signs of chain gouging at the trailing end. But, if the chain is kept adjusted, it has plenty of clearance, as shown here:
In this pic, my XS1B is on its centerstand. The chain will be at its closest here. It'll be higher, with more clearance, in the weighted, riding mode...
In this pic, my XS1B is on its centerstand. The chain will be at its closest here. It'll be higher, with more clearance, in the weighted, riding mode...
Today I worked on pulling the starter. First I removed the gear cover and the reduction gear just pulls right out. Be careful not to lose the small wave washer that’s under the bushing.
Looking at the starter , I can see that the two ( plastic?) o rings at the ends look to be cracked and broken.
I looked online and these parts are obsolete, and look to be hard to find. I managed to find a couple of NOS ones on eBay and scuffed them up. ( I’m gaining on you Jim) .
Then I wanted to pull the sump filter. I believe the guy I bought it from must’ve replaced the filter before trying to sell it. The filter looked in really good shape, but rather sludgy. HOWEVER...... he must’ve used some sort of brush on gasket sealer on both the crankcase surface and the sump plate surface as well, it had a metallic look to it. It was stuck stuck stuck!!! I started out with a small piece of pine wood and a small hammer working around the edges, until my pine block splintered, then I moved on to a piece of oak and a BFH and beat on it like I was pissed at it.
Finally the gasket sheared. Half stuck on the case and half stuck on the sump plate. I’m working on getting the gasket off with paint stripper right now. I’m sure happy I didn’t have to do this laying on my back out in the garage. The gasket cleanup alone would’ve taken forever.
Ahhh.....another day another donut!
Looking at the starter , I can see that the two ( plastic?) o rings at the ends look to be cracked and broken.
I looked online and these parts are obsolete, and look to be hard to find. I managed to find a couple of NOS ones on eBay and scuffed them up. ( I’m gaining on you Jim) .
Then I wanted to pull the sump filter. I believe the guy I bought it from must’ve replaced the filter before trying to sell it. The filter looked in really good shape, but rather sludgy. HOWEVER...... he must’ve used some sort of brush on gasket sealer on both the crankcase surface and the sump plate surface as well, it had a metallic look to it. It was stuck stuck stuck!!! I started out with a small piece of pine wood and a small hammer working around the edges, until my pine block splintered, then I moved on to a piece of oak and a BFH and beat on it like I was pissed at it.
Finally the gasket sheared. Half stuck on the case and half stuck on the sump plate. I’m working on getting the gasket off with paint stripper right now. I’m sure happy I didn’t have to do this laying on my back out in the garage. The gasket cleanup alone would’ve taken forever.
Ahhh.....another day another donut!
Note the lack of safety wire on the sump bolts. I use safty wire on mine. Probably fine with blue loctite, but I already had the wire sitting around.
Do you plan on splitting the cases?
I really hadn’t, because I really had no work planned down south. But I know , I keep looking at it and thinking , sheesh it wouldn’t take much at this point. A little hard to handle, just rolling it around on my bench.
Yeah we are SHOCKED to hear the bottom end is next.
